#1
Hey. I get the feeling that my local guitar store might have a complex plan aimed at parting me from my money. I recently brought a JP60 and went to the store to have the action re-adjusted due to fret buzz. It was done and things seemed to be improved, however, the action still seemed to be far from perfect, as it took what seemed to be a large amount of effort to "get stuff done" while playing.

After this when I went to restring the guitar the bridge sort of subsided into the guitar, and I don't really think it's supposed to do that . I don't want to move it back due to not knowing enough about how it works, and I wouldn't want to make things worse. There's an attached picture of how the bridge looks.

To be blunt I think I gave the impression to the guitar store that I didn't really know what I was doing, and being the paranoid person that I am. I feel that they may have created a scheme where by incorrectly setting the action of the guitar, they have caused this to happen and therefore get me to come crawling back, handing over more money in order for them to fix it. That, or I'm just really bad at carrying out simple guitar maintaining tasks. Oh, they want £35 for each restring, which for a relatively simple tuning system is rather high.

So is it a problem I can solve myself? Because I really don't want to go crawling back. xD Any suggestions on how to resolve the problem would be appreciated!
Attachments:
Guitar 1.jpg
#2
If you're not happy with the work they did, bring it back and tell them. As for you bridge, you took out the strings which removes the tension keeping it flat, once you put new strings in it will be back to normal.
#3
So wait, you bought a £500 guitar and you didnt even research the bridge despite the fact its clearly something you have never used before?
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#4
Unfortunately, this may be your own fault, if you remove all the strings on a floating bridge at once it'll just sink, stick a new set on but keep em loose then tighten up so they're all tightened at the same rate and you might be okay. It happens to all of us unless you're lucky enough to get told before hand.
Have a look at your instruction booklet, it'll explain the bridge mechanics, and you should be able to sort it out without paying, even if you **** it up, at least you tried.
#5
Just so you know, I work at a UK guitar store (pretty big chain) and we only charge £5 for a re-string, and if you've bought the strings from us and its a quiet day we sometimes give a free setup too


Go somewhere else man
#6
Like said it is YOUR fault not theirs. So the money they are gonna charge you to fix it will be totaly justified because of your lack of knowledge. But at least now you know to never do it again.
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#8
Thanks for the help, I didn't get my guitar with any documentation so I wasn't 100% sure on how to restring. Trail and error I suppose!
#9
All of these posts are correct. Just an added note; They are charging you that much for every restring because a floating bridge requires a bit of setup every time it is restrung to make sure it is all balanced. It's not just a string off string on kind of setup.
But it is something you can learn to do yourself and save lots of money.
#11
Just restring it and the tension will be back to normal again.
£35 for a restring? What rip-off! Learn to do it yourself. It's not hard and you will discover a thing or two about how the guitar works overall while doing it. If in doubt, just ask us here. We're here to help. Remember, don't rush and take everything slowly.

If you want to learn I recommend you to take a look at this guy on youtube.
How to restring
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo5i2wkXaoY

About how to setup the bridge properly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7luUzgDwwcs
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


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Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


Last edited by hminh87 at Mar 4, 2012,
#12
Just block the bridge from behind, put all the strings on and tune and GRADUALLY take the block out and it should equal out and barely move, assuming you use the same gauge strings.

I do it all the time haha. I was playing live like 3 weeks ago and as we were finishing, I did the highest whammy and snapped 2 strings so funny.

Anyways, it works
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Quote by metaldood91
Hi. Can someone tell me which guitars are real 24 fret guitars and which are just 22 fret guitars with 2 extra frets added on?
#13
Thanks.
I plan on doing it tomorrow, I'll let you know how it works out.
When you say "block the bridge from behind", what would be the best way to do that? Because it seems pretty stubborn in regards to moving back to it's original position. Because of the distance to the pivot from where the strings are inserted, there should be less force needed to get the bridge to move back to it's original place? Or would I have to make sure the bridge was parallel to the guitar then insert each string...

I've never had much experience with technical aspects of guitars, It's something I'd really like to improve on. I guess it's just finding a good place to start. There's a lot (of what appears to be) contradictory information on the interweb, probably partly due to my lack of knowing about the hardware in the first place.
#14
Thanks hminh87, I'm okay on the last bit of the restringing process, it's more getting to bridge into a position that's good to put the strings in which is the problem. The video's were pretty helpful, but I can't help thinking that maybe the example of adjusting the bridge on the Strat doesn't apply because the bridge wouldn't sink into a similar position due to the size of the bridge and the hole. Whereas mine can if left to it's own devices.
#16
Quote by MorellosProtege
I think I have a pretty good idea how to keep the bridge parallel! I'll report back later


Before taking the strings off just dive the tremolo arm to put something under the edge of the bridge to keep it raised. I often use a soft piece of cloth to avoid scratches. After all the strings are on and tuned, dive the bridge again and take out the the cloth. If you setup correctly it will be staying perfectly balanced as before.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


Last edited by hminh87 at Mar 6, 2012,
#17
Yeah, it worked out fine in the end! Shouldn't have any more problems restringing. The action seems a little high though, I think I could sort it out, but after messing up my guitar once I'm not sure if I want to do something that could lead to more problems...