#1
I am working on my first cigar box amplifier and I am having a bit of trouble.

I seem to have everything on the board wired and soldered but I seem to get sound so quiet it cant be heard unless you press the speaker to your ear.

I can not figure out what to do help please!
#2
What speaker are you putting it into?

It's outputting in the region of 0.5W which won't have a hope in hell of driving your 60W fender cab - it's better suited for headphones!
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#4
What layout/schematic are you using? Can you post some pictures of your board and wiring? Maybe we can spot something. I built a 386 amp and I can hear it just fine through my Marshall 4x12 cab.
#5
#7
it looks like it runs off of 9v, so you'd just need to add a DC power jack to use your one spot

I second griffin, that we should see a picture of it..we can all take shots in the dark, but it'll be easier if we're able to point it out
#8
Quote by caw1


Wow! Not really much there which should make it a lot easier to figure out what is wrong. Get a multimeter and verify you are getting 9v at pin 6 of the 386. My guess is you have an electrolytic cap backwards or missed a connection. How did you make the board for it?
#11
First off. Why do you have a circuit board and still have all those parts flying all over the place. Put them on the board. I look at that and expect it not to work.
If you want me to put a pad-per-hole board layout together for you, let me know. It will take me a few minutes.
#12
I've now been through two boards in this trial and error. thats why nothings nailed down. I hooked everything it what seems to be the right order yet i only get clicks and pops...
#13
There are so many opportunities for joints to get broke, stretched, or twisted in your current configuration. Solder joints may look fine, but they can have no internal integrity or continuity.

Reflow all solder joints while trying your hardest to move your other solder joints. Like others have suggested, check your electrolytic polarity. I don't think that will be a problem if it was working before, but it couldn't hurt.
#14
Here. I did a pad-per-hole layout for you really quick. Put the components in the proper holes, bend their legs over to the next component and solder in place. Make sure not to get legs touching that shouldn't be touching. I recommend a socket for the op-amp.
#17
Yes. .047uf should say 473 on it. If you do it like my layout, at least well have some reference to how it should be and can more easily find errors.
#18
Griffin, which version of diylc are you using? I remember on my old laptop I had a version that looked like your layout, but the new version I've got now has some weird scaling issues and is super buggy :/
#21
The following assumes you have soldered and joined everything correctly exactly as per the schematic. If you aren't confident that you have, you should go back over every single item and joint and make sure you have.

Otherwise in the short term, for the moment, forget the output master volume pot.

Replace the master pot directly (from the negative of the 220uF cap) with the speaker to ground. Essentially removing the master volume control.

Do you get sound then?
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#22
http://www.flickr.com/photos/54804764@N00/401719542/ same board as in this diagram wired the same way. I think i burned out a chip since i did have the +/- reversed in that photo. I have fixed that so I think with a new chip it might work.