Well its pretty much my first time changing strings on my guitar, and when I stringing, I ****ed up a lot, I put on the A string in the E slot (retarded, I know :/) at first, then I detuned it too much so that it started to tighten again on the side of the guitar while the string wasn't inside the saddle and nut
and then now I just tuned up the string correctly, but it feels like it has less tension and higher action than before. Also the other strings seem more tense. Pretty nooby question, but did I mess something up, like the truss rod? Or am I just paranoid.
Last edited by ._. at Mar 26, 2012,
I think you're paranoid. New strings feel different than old ones so you just might be feeling that since it's your first time.
It probably has less tension because you stretched it out a ton. The problem isn't with the guitar, it's with that individual string.

Here you go.
Dont take offense to the Dummie's video. That just happened to be the first restrining video that popped up when I searched a restrining video out for you.
Thanks for the help guys, but also now that I've done up the string, on some frets theres a slight buzzing, and when I strum it open pretty hard you can hear some buzzing as well.
Is that normal :s
Quote by Darkdevil725

Here you go.
Dont take offense to the Dummie's video. That just happened to be the first restrining video that popped up when I searched a restrining video out for you.

Well, maybe that video is not really for Dummies, but it is for Noobs.

The main reason for "windings" is to bind the string to the post if you don't "lock it" using another method. The secondary reason for windings is if you don't have staggered tuners it can help with the geometry in some guitars. But IMHO that doesn't make enough difference to overcome the downfall--unstable tuning.

If you like playing your guitar more than tuning it, then I recommend the "lock" method, with no windings underneath:

Think you need windings even with the string locked? Instructions for the Fender locking tuners have you do it without windings. Just have the e post @ 1:00, B @ 2:00, G & D @ 3:00, A @ 4:00, and E @ 5:00. (that's on an inline headstock; you do the math if there are tuners on both sides of the headstock, or if you have a reverse headstock or lefty.)

There's only 2 differences between locking tuners and the "lock" method:
- When you know what you're doing, the locking tuners save you about 30 seconds per string
- Good locking tuners are staggered

Another Noobish element was loosening the tuners (by hand) until the strings almost fall out. Much better to use a peg winder to quickly remove the tension, then cut the string right at the peg hole. Then take the locked part w/pliers and watch the loose end while pulling the rest of the string through the bridge/tailpiece so it doesn't scratch anything. Yanking a balled-up end through the bridge is just asking for unnecessary damage.

Yet another Noobish part of the Dummies video was the string stretching. Much better to use one of these:


But you still need to stretch the strings manually above the nut (unless you have a locking nut).

They say to just stretch it twice, but you should keep stretching until the strings don't go flat even a cent. Yeah, unlike the Dummies video, use a tuner for this. Maybe don't use as much force after the second stretch, though.

The last thing they left out of the Noob video was lubricant for the nut and saddles. Don't do the pencil lead thing--that just makes your nut dirty. And nobody likes a dirty nut. Use a graphite grease like Nut Sauce or GHS Graphitall Graphite Guitar Nut Lubricant.

All this stuff works! I never have to re-tune my Floyd Rose guiatars between string changes (even though 2 of them have cheap bridges). And my Strats and Mustang can go weeks without needing re-tuning. They might just need a quick snap on the trem to re-seat the strings in the nut if I've been using the whammy, but they always come right back in tune. The main reason I have to retune after string changes is when the ambient temperature changes.

As for string buzz, if you can't hear it through the amp, then it's not a big issue. You might need to adjust the action or the truss rod. Don't mess with the truss rod until you really know what you're doing. If you have a sub $1,000 guitar with a bolt-on neck, then it might need the neck shimmed. Leave that to a luthier. If the guitar has a Floyd Rose, then be sure to remove string tension before adjusting the action or you put excessive wear on the knife edges. That will kill a cheap Floyd Rose (like an Ibanez Edge III) very quickly.
Last edited by jetwash69 at Mar 26, 2012,