#1
So ive just recently changed strings on my FR for the first time (I tried when I first got it and wound up giving up and letting someone else do it because I also needed it to be intonated and springs set up etc) and since I only had to change to new strings this time I figured I could manage it. I followed this video tutorial online and getting the strings on wasn't the problem it was the bridge itself and how its supposed to sit. I had this problem the first time; how the hell do I get the bridge flush? I figured since the guitar was already setup for my string gauge/tuning all i had to do was just put the strings on, after all the video said NOTHING about how to make it flush all it said was to "make sure it was". So I put the strings on and the bridge is still dipped down even as I tune up. Frustrated, I stuffed my cloth underneath the bridge to hold it even and in place as I tuned up and it <I>seems</i> to maybe have done the trick because now the bridge is up, but im completely unsure if its flushed. I mean the plate on the bottom to the sides looks like its leaning forward but the pegs on the back side where the alan keys go look like their flush with the body. Im totally unsure if this is right or if I did it right. Here are some pics:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/Lilvinny2200/3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/Lilvinny2200/2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/Lilvinny2200/1-1.jpg

Nothing really sounds off to my ear but im not sure if my eyes are playing tricks on me and making me think my action is slightly higher now and the effect would be because of how the bridge is set? Is this flush or no? And if not what the hell do I do?
#2
Your definitely not parallel. It looks like you need to go back and meww with the springs a bit.
#5


you need to move the bridge so the blue line is where the pink line is.

EDIT: yeah, tighten the strings.
Last edited by zilant at Apr 9, 2012,
#8
The action is higher when the bridge dives forward and lower when it pulls backward. You should only measure action when the bridge is balanced parallel to the body.

From the picture it looks like you used a thicker string gauge which produces more tension to pull the bridge forward. What you can do to normalize the bridge again is to open the bridge cavity on the back and increase the spring tension by tighten the tremolo claw which holds one end of the strings.

Don't tighten the tremolo claw too much, though. Do it in small increment steps.
Like this:
Adjust claw > Tune to pitch > adjust claw again > tune again and so on. Until you get the bridge to be parallel with the body with all the strings in tune.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


#9
Well i got the plate even like how you showed me in the picture, but ive noticed that the string lock pegs in the beg are now dipping a little bit. I figure this is normal due to the construction? Just want to make sure.
#10
Ok well i got the bridge even which is great but I started noticing when I was playing that on the low E string around the 15th fret and so ive noticed slight buzzing developing into an awkward pitch. This is driving me crazy. What can I do about this? Should I just bring it to a professional?
#11
Yes I would say bring it to a tech and ask them to set it up. If you changed your gauge of string it might be messing with the inotation.

I also might have no idea what im talking about.
Definitely take it to a tech though. Maybe ask if they can show you how to maintain it on your own?
#12
Buzzing on the higher fret can only because of a few things.
Too much neck relief: If the neck has too much relief then the action toward the higher fret will raise but the string angle to the bridge while fretted still the same. Make sure the neck only gives off a slight relief and raise the bridge a little bit. Put a capo on the first fret and fret down the string where the neck meets the body, usually around 14th fret. If you can slide a credit card over the 7th fret then the neck has too much relief. Adjust the neck relief by turning the truss rod accordingly. Google if you don't know about it as you can destroy the neck if forced too much.

Uneven frets: Either the frets before were worn or they are just simple badly installed. You will have to check it out with a straight ruler. Not much you can do here if it is. I highly advice you to bring the guitar to a luthier in this case.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


Last edited by hminh87 at Apr 10, 2012,