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#41
Quote by Viban
and that box is lookin good so far. my only advice would be, if you have the skills putting it together with dovetail joints and wood glue would probably be more secure.


you mean those joints i put in? I'll probably still put braces in to be 100% sure it wont come down. Amp's comin today. just waiting for it. . .
#44
Quote by JCGGUITARS
sorry bout this but, i can use a 30w head with 120w speakers

The only speaker specs that matter are the impedence, and the efficiency.

This spec; "92DB @ 1 watt at one meter". A 120 "watt" speaker could actually not be as loud as a 60 "watt" speaker, if the lower rated speaker were to have a higher efficiency!

The only thing the speaker's "wattage" rating really tells you, is how much power that can safely be dissipated by it. It has zip to do with volume of sound.

Second, I believe it would be to your best advantage to put 1" X 1" cleats (strips) on all the joints in the cabinets. It give you a massive amount of strength by virtue of the huge gluing surfaces they provide.

Second, you need to have the impedance thing cleared up in your mind, Look up the formula for determining series and parallel resistance.

In short 2, 16 ohm speakers wired in parallel will present an 8 ohm load to the amp. But also 2, 4 ohm speakers, wired in SERIES will do the same thing.
Last edited by Captaincranky at May 12, 2012,
#45
I think it would be interesting to put a Swamp Thang in with a Man O War, but if you want a more traditional tone, use a pair of Man O Wars.

If you're looking to spend a little extra, can't go wrong with a Weber Blue Dog.
#46
Quote by Captaincranky
In short 2, 16 ohm speakers wired in parallel will present an 8 ohm load to the amp. But also 2, 4 ohm speakers, wired in SERIES will do the same thing.


My two cents would be to NEVER wire a 2x12 in series. I've had to repair quite a few amps used with a 2x12 series wired cab.

If one of your speakers opens then you have no load at the amp, and its as good as gone. If you do 2 16 ohm speakers in parallel, and one of them opens, then you still have a 16 ohm load at the 8 ohm tap. Not the best for the amp, but it is much more likely to survive this situation.
#47
Quote by XgamerGt04
If one of your speakers opens then you have no load at the amp, and its as good as gone. If you do 2 16 ohm speakers in parallel, and one of them opens, then you still have a 16 ohm load at the 8 ohm tap. Not the best for the amp, but it is much more likely to survive this situation.
Fair enough. But keep in mind that's only totally true of a transistor amplifier. A tube amp's output transformer provides the load there. (Now we have 4 cents in play)...

Another thing to consider is, some of the Eminence guitar speakers being discussed, are available in 8 ohms only. Which leads us to my next question

What I'm most curious about is the Peavey amp spec the TS is giving,"30 watts into 8 ohms".

I thought most amps were designed for a 4 ohm load. That places 2, 8 ohm drivers in parallel as being correct.

That jibes with my two Peavey amps, a"Vyper 15" which takes a single 4 ohm driver, and my "Ecoustic 208", which is two, 8 ohm drivers in parallel.

(And I know the little Vyper isn't a "real amp", no reason to rub that in).
Last edited by Captaincranky at May 12, 2012,
#49
Quote by JCGGUITARS
im a little confused. on the back of the amp it says 8ohm minimum. what two speakers can i get. and what is wiring in paralell

Go to Avatar Speakers website and they have a speaker wiring diagram (its twards the bottom of the page) it has all the ways of wiring it up wether is a 2x12 or 4x12.
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#50
Quote by JCGGUITARS
im a little confused. on the back of the amp it says 8ohm minimum. what two speakers can i get. and what is wiring in paralell
To put an 8 ohm load on your amp you're going to need two (2) 16 ohm speakers and wire them in parallel. That's the diagram in the top left quadrant of this diagram.

I know it shows 2/ 8 ohms equaling 4 ohms to the amp. It follows logically that 2 sixteens would be (and in fact is), an 8 ohm load.


You could also wire two (2) 4 ohm speakers in series to arrive at an 8 ohm load. That's the diagram in the upper right quadrant.

As "XgamerGt04" pointed out earlier, that may not be the best idea when dealing with a solid state amp. It's OK with a tube amp though.

Your, "8 0hm only" load amp, has placed you at a disadvantage with this project, because many drivers aren't available in 16 ohm impedance.

"US Speaker" sells almost the entire line of "Eminence" loudspeakers. Go here: http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm and click on the guitar speaker button, to ponder your choices.

You can also get the info from "the horses mouth", at the Eminence site: http://www.eminence.com/
#51
just bought a Eminence Man o War 16ohm. am i endangering my amp this way? if so, that stinks! anyway i can use this without blowing my amp?
EDIT: on the peavey website, this amp that i got can be used with two 1x12 cab's as a full stack. those stacks use 16 ohm. in other words, they are using two 16 ohm speakers with it.
Last edited by JCGGUITARS at May 14, 2012,
#52
Quote by JCGGUITARS
just bought a Eminence Man o War 16ohm. am i endangering my amp this way? if so, that stinks! anyway i can use this without blowing my amp?
EDIT: on the peavey website, this amp that i got can be used with two 1x12 cab's as a full stack. those stacks use 16 ohm. in other words, they are using two 16 ohm speakers with it.

The amp says, "8 ohms minimum", right? And 16 is more than 8, right? So, if you put another speaker in the cab, it has to be wired as in the diagram I already posted.

And amp will produce less power into a higher impedance load. So, the only thing that's going to happen with one speaker, is your amp won't produce full power into a 16 ohm load. In fact, it's actually easier on the amp, since there will be less current flowing at the higher impedance!

When you're ready, for a 2nd speaker, you'll just have to be sure you buy another 16 ohm model.

Then you wire the speakers in "parallel". (that's the 2 speaker's negatives together, the two speaker's positives together, and then the resulting negative and posi tive wire wired to their respective amp terminals. That would be positives to amp positive, negatives to amp negativ). Capesh?
Last edited by Captaincranky at May 14, 2012,
#53
Quote by Captaincranky
The amp says, "8 ohms minimum", right? And 16 is more than 8, right? So, if you put another speaker in the cab, it has to be wired as in the diagram I already posted.

And amp will produce less power into a higher impedance load. So, the only thing that's going to happen with one speaker, is your amp won't produce full power into a 16 ohm load. In fact, it's actually easier on the amp, since there will be less current flowing at the higher impedance!

When you're ready, for a 2nd speaker, you'll just have to be sure you buy another 16 ohm model.

Then you wire the speakers in "parallel". (that's the 2 speaker's negatives together, the two speaker's positives together, and then the resulting negative and posi tive wire wired to their respective amp terminals. That would be positives to amp positive, negatives to amp negativ). Capesh?


Capesh! lol dont know what that is but ill have an output jack so what lug is posative and what's negative? btw, so glad that i didnt make a mistake!
#60
look at the plug. i'm too lazy to go cut one of my cables open. the one on the tip is positive, the one on the barrel is negative.
Call me Chris
Quote by jimihendrix6699
had a blast until the person in front of me whipped out his dick and started pissing all over the floor..

Ducks and guitars or fish and guitars. I lead a simple existence
#61
I have to ask... you aren't planning on using a guitar cable to hook up your head and cab are you? because you should be using speaker cable and wire....
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#64
Quote by von Layzonfon


tl;dr - Use a speaker cable for your head/cab, not an instrument cable.
#66
using an instrument cable not suited for the power of an amp output signal can blow the cable, meaning you have an open non-load on your head causing it to fry in turn, use the proper cables
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#67
Quote by GABarrie
using an instrument cable not suited for the power of an amp output signal can blow the cable, meaning you have an open non-load on your head causing it to fry in turn, use the proper cables


ok. had no idea there was a difference
#68
instrument cables, mic cables etc. have a thin twisted wire core, insulated in some form of plastic, and then have a braided metal shield, and the final outside insulation. they are designed for carrying low power signals, like the milliwatts your guitar and pedals put out, but the centre core can seriously overheat under the power of an amp and can either sever the cable (no load) or melt the insulation between the core and the shield (shorted load).

Speaker cables have two thick cores, both properly insulated against power and heat, and then wrapped together, and will typically take 1kW (at least all the basic ones in my PA kit do)

EDIT: I forgot to point out the reason for the difference... because the small signal in the instrument cable is vulnerable to interference and noise, it gets a shield around it to protect it and keep the signal clean. The speaker cable needs to handle power obviously, so it's designed to carry it
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Last edited by GABarrie at May 18, 2012,
#69
Quote by GABarrie
instrument cables, mic cables etc. have a thin twisted wire core, insulated in some form of plastic, and then have a braided metal shield, and the final outside insulation. they are designed for carrying low power signals, like the milliwatts your guitar and pedals put out, but the centre core can seriously overheat under the power of an amp and can either sever the cable (no load) or melt the insulation between the core and the shield (shorted load).

Speaker cables have two thick cores, both properly insulated against power and heat, and then wrapped together, and will typically take 1kW (at least all the basic ones in my PA kit do)

EDIT: I forgot to point out the reason for the difference... because the small signal in the instrument cable is vulnerable to interference and noise, it gets a shield around it to protect it and keep the signal clean. The speaker cable needs to handle power obviously, so it's designed to carry it


another dumb question and i think i know the answer but will it just hurt the sound or will the cable hurt the amp. i've played with it and i like the sound but is it hurting my amp or is it just the quality
#70
Quote by JCGGUITARS
another dumb question and i think i know the answer but will it just hurt the sound or will the cable hurt the amp. i've played with it and i like the sound but is it hurting my amp or is it just the quality


Using an instrument cable instead of a speaker cable can damage your amp (as GABarrie metioned), I'm not sure if it's a process that happens over time or if it's more instantaneous, but yeah it can damage the amp.
#71
can be either instantaneous or a process, but either way it's not good
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#74
Quote by GABarrie
man you suck at research :p
Yup, he sucks at at it big time! But, he's great at having other people do it for him, isn't he?

Crap, now I'll hafta unsubscribe from this thread again.
Last edited by Captaincranky at May 18, 2012,
#75
DO NOT use instrument cable, they make cables for use on cabs called speaker cables
Quote by R45VT
Bastards.
#76
Hey is there anywhere online that I can buy a stereo input jack for the cab I plan to build? Something like the link below (Doesn't have to be Orange branded and what not, just for the idea). I live in New Zealand and I've had a look around and stuff like this seems pretty sparse.

http://i46.tinypic.com/speixs.png

Thanks
#77
Quote by GABarrie


It just that i was leaving to go to the theater to watch a movie. So i figured id ask you guys cuz id probably goof up and get another intrument cable. XP Thanks anyway!

#78
yeh yeh... excuses :p
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