Page 4 of 11
#121
Quote by R45VT
What tubes do you have? What cab? (Speakers?)

BV60 or BV60H? It makes a difference.


Actually it is the BV6212, which is the 2x12 combo.
#122
Quote by jhadl
Actually it is the BV6212, which is the 2x12 combo.


It is the same as the BV60, just in combo form with 2x12s. Look in the linked manual on page 1- I think you can run EL34s or 6L6s. It has an auto bias circuit. The BV60/BV6212 is pretty different than the rest of the models.

Post up a picture!
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Nov 24, 2012,
#123
Updated the front page and fixed a few links. Part number for the 250KA pots in the original style: 70-254-70 if you are going to do the mod listed on the front page. These pots are much higher quality then the plastic crappy pot in the component list.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#124
Quote by R45VT
It is the same as the BV60, just in combo form with 2x12s. Look in the linked manual on page 1- I think you can run EL34s or 6L6s. It has an auto bias circuit. The BV60/BV6212 is pretty different than the rest of the models.

Post up a picture!


Thanks for the reply but I just got rid of it and bought a Jet City JCA20H instead. Much better overall tone for a similar price.

I used to have a BVH 120 running through an Ampeg cab loaded with Vintage 30's and the thing sounded excellent, but this 2x12 combo was just a turd.
#125
Hey guys, quick question here. I have an old Blue Voodoo 120H Head and the power indicator lights turn on but there is no sound and no tube glow. According to the first post it might be the fuse holder. Is this something I could fix myself or is the amp screwed? I haven't used the amp in a long time and want to sell it off so I have no interest in paying for an amp tech to look at it.
#126
Quote by Saiko
Hey guys, quick question here. I have an old Blue Voodoo 120H Head and the power indicator lights turn on but there is no sound and no tube glow. According to the first post it might be the fuse holder. Is this something I could fix myself or is the amp screwed? I haven't used the amp in a long time and want to sell it off so I have no interest in paying for an amp tech to look at it.


It may be a blown fuse. Its a 10A slow blow. Replace it first and re-evaluate from there. You have to open the amp to be able to replace the fuse. Keep in mind lethal voltages are stored in the capacitors. That being said the fuse is accessible without zapping yourself. Just be careful to not touch anything else while you are in there. Make the amp is off and unplugged from the wall while you are doing this.

Look at the bulbs to see how the filaments look. The bulbs are cheap and so are fuses. Get a 10A slow blow from radio shack and replace it after checking your bulbs out. The fuse is covered and not visible. Only way to test with a volte/ohm meter.

http://tubedepot.com/p-pl-47.html

If the fuse clip is messed up the PCB needs to come out and be replaced. Quite a bit more involved...

If you are in doubt take a photo and post it up.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Jan 3, 2013,
#128
Quote by R45VT
It may be a blown fuse. Its a 10A slow blow. Replace it first and re-evaluate from there. You have to open the amp to be able to replace the fuse. Keep in mind lethal voltages are stored in the capacitors. That being said the fuse is accessible without zapping yourself. Just be careful to not touch anything else while you are in there. Make the amp is off and unplugged from the wall while you are doing this.

Look at the bulbs to see how the filaments look. The bulbs are cheap and so are fuses. Get a 10A slow blow from radio shack and replace it after checking your bulbs out. The fuse is covered and not visible. Only way to test with a volte/ohm meter.

http://tubedepot.com/p-pl-47.html

If the fuse clip is messed up the PCB needs to come out and be replaced. Quite a bit more involved...

If you are in doubt take a photo and post it up.


Thanks for the help! It appears the 10A fuse is indeed blown, although I am not positive. I am going to radio shack tomorrow to get one and try that. The PCB looks okay as does the fuse holder. Would be great if it was just a bad fuse.
Last edited by Saiko at Jan 4, 2013,
#129
Quote by Saiko
Thanks for the help! It appears the 10A fuse is indeed blown, although I am not positive. I am going to radio shack tomorrow to get one and try that. The PCB looks okay as does the fuse holder. Would be great if it was just a bad fuse.


Fuses just don't go bad. Pull the light bulbs and look at the filaments.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#130
Quote by R45VT
Fuses just don't go bad. Pull the light bulbs and look at the filaments.


Okay, so I may have jumped the gun in my hopefulness. Once I had just glanced at the PCB last night and once I got some light on it, that fuse holder kinda stuck out like a sore thumb. Looks off to me?



I guess I will see if anyone wants an amp for parts now.
Last edited by Saiko at Jan 4, 2013,
#131
Did you try a new fuse? The PCB looks ok. Fuse clip is a little discolored.

Put a new fuse in and see how it is.


What part of the country do you live in?
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#132
Quote by R45VT
Did you try a new fuse? The PCB looks ok. Fuse clip is a little discolored.

Put a new fuse in and see how it is.


What part of the country do you live in?



Haven't tried a new fuse yet, about to go get one now. All of the light bulbs look okay, none are blown. I saw that the fuse holder looked discolored and thought that was the problem.

I live in VA, near Richmond.
Last edited by Saiko at Jan 4, 2013,
#133
It might be. Fubar'd.

You may have a bad heater in a tube.

Put a new fuse in a try. You can also try a 3A fuse in there with the bulbs removed.

Not that it matters but I am curious- is this a blue or black Tolex BV?

If you were in LA I would say drop it off as I have about 15 fuse clips left.

Keep us posted.


Also I can walk you through pulling the PCB out. Literally it's a .15c fuse clip. You could buy one on-line and take the PCB to an amp repair shop and have them remove the old one and solder in a new one. It might need some buss wire from the clip to the diode bridge if the current track has a voltage drop. Yours doesn't appear to be discolored on the PCB, just the clip. Going this route you could save some serious dough and make it worth your while.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Jan 4, 2013,
#134
Well, I have some more info. Replaced the fuse and tried to power the amp. The two lightbulbs on the right lit up for half a second and went out and the two on the left did not light at all. Is it wired in series so that if the third bulb was bad the fourth (From the right) would also not light? The bulbs looked okay when I pulled them but I could have missed something. I don't know enough about amps to know what this means.
#135
Did the amp play? The bulbs are wired I parallel so one being open will not effect the others.

Did the fuse blow?

Pull the 4 12AX7 tubes and try again to see if the bulbs light up.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#136
The amp did not play, the 2 right bulbs lit up and then went out almost immediately. Didnt hear any speaker hum when this happened but the volume may have been down. Pulling the 4 small tubes did not change anything. Blown fuse.
Last edited by Saiko at Jan 4, 2013,
#137
Is the fuse blown?

You can pull the light bulbs and try a 3A fuse to see if it will play but it sounds like the fuse clip is done. The big question is what caused that....

Also is this a black or blue Tolex amp?
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#138
Yes, blown fuse. Forgot to add that in. It is the black Tolex amp.
#139
Pull the bulbs and put a 3A fuse in with no pre amp tubes installed. Turn it on and then recheck the fuse after a minute. If it is ok put the preamp tubes in 1 at a time ( repeating the process) and recheck.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#140
Finally got a change to sit down and work on it again. Bad news, 3A fuse blew with no bulbs or pre amp tubes in. Why only 2 of the bulbs were lighting before the 10A blew I don't know.
#141
Quote by Saiko
Finally got a change to sit down and work on it again. Bad news, 3A fuse blew with no bulbs or pre amp tubes in. Why only 2 of the bulbs were lighting before the 10A blew I don't know.


Wow....

I will take a peek at the schematic and give you a pointer in a bit. Maybe tomorrow. PM me if I forget as it will send me an E-mail.

That fuse powers the bulbs and AC heaters, goes into the diode rectifier for the DC heaters as well.


EDIT-

First off- pull the power tubes and retest with the 3A fuse. If it is ok then put the preamp tubes back in and retest.

Did you look to see if any of the 250mA fuses were blown?

Find C63, take a picture of that. Its in the group of 2 capacitors that you already photographed to the left of the fuse clip. It's the larger one. Also take a photo of TR1, its above the fuse clip.

If you had a multimeter it would actually be pretty easy to diagnose this as the circuit has a major short to pop the 3A with no bulbs or tubes.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Jan 6, 2013,
#142
I still have mine that had the problem. I measured 3v AC at the fuse, spec is 6. I also measured a 200mV drop across the fuse. It's also still getting fairly hot.


With that circuit open- no current flow I measured 6.9VAC which means its most likely not the Power Transformer.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Jan 7, 2013,
#143
Here are my personal favorite modifications for the BV120 from ECistheBest:
Clip C8, C17,R101.
Bridge R25
Change C14 to 390pF, change R28 to 1K, change C16 to .047uF, R24 to 100k.
Replace the treble and mid pots(P6&P7) to 250K audio taper (must be obtained form crate, part numbers 70-254-22(for the cheap potentiometer) or 70-254-70(for the original style pot that has an extra feel to it), you will need 2).

Also check and make sure R26 is 47ohms, both of mine had 1k resistors instead.


can you get a little specific on a few things. what wattage resistors? what is the best way to get the good pot from crate? email them?

anything else i can improve in there while i am at it? i am fine at reading a diagram (not extremely fast) but i can do so.

RVT - where would you order the parts from? i am going to just get a few of everything, in case a fry anything. this sounds dumb, but what kind of caps do i need? the only caps i have messed with are like orange drops for a few guitars. i am sure i would need something capable of high current.

what wattage did you use for the PCB? i have a soldering station with an an adjustable heat. would you use lower heat on a PCB than you would PTP or turret boarded?
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
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2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
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#144
I ordered parts from tube depot. Let me sort through my parts. I think I have extra along with the potentiometers. I ordered double pots last time.

I will let you know.

It sounds amazing compared to stock.i would recommend doing it.


The caps need to be rated above 400V. They are coupling caps. I used Xicon for majority and a few Mallory.

I think I should have a complete kit. Keep in mind you can do a bunch to mod it without removing the PCB.

Orange drop will work as well but they are double the size of the stock ones and might be a bitch to fit properly.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Jan 8, 2013,
#145
Quote by R45VT
I ordered parts from tube depot. Let me sort through my parts. I think I have extra along with the potentiometers. I ordered double pots last time.

I will let you know.

It sounds amazing compared to stock.i would recommend doing it.


The caps need to be rated above 400V. They are coupling caps. I used Xicon for majority and a few Mallory.

I think I should have a complete kit. Keep in mind you can do a bunch to mod it without removing the PCB.

Orange drop will work as well but they are double the size of the stock ones and might be a bitch to fit properly.


thanks. for the reply if you have anything extra i will throw you some cash.

just in the last 20 minutes found a guitar that i am going to buy.

RVT, you are becoming quite the blue voodoo aficionado around here.

______________________


and i have an expensive February, my wife's birthday, our wedding anniversary and valentines day.

i should be able to squeeze the cash out to do it, but may need to wait. it kind of sucks that i find the guitar i have been looking for a good price used, and can't pass it by the only time i am constrained as far as cash goes.

but i am really excited to it. maybe it will motivate me to fix my lee jackson ampeg after. the HTF (internal fuse) didn't fail so i fried a cap or something, i just am not looking forward to pull the board on it, i have to remove like 13 PCB mounted pots. and i have to remove another board. i don't even remeber what the amp sound like


i am going to initiate the movement to nominate you into the superhuman level of the mastery BlueVoodoo GOD.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#146


No rush on the parts. I am going to replace the coupling caps on a blue tolex one and will try to get some good photos of a step by step.

I'll keep you posted. The pots were 4 bucks each, capacitors probably under $6 bucks and a few resistors. I'll do an inventory and get back to you.

Its amazing how cheap it is to make it sound better. I think for the larger coupling caps they cheaped out and stuck with 2 sizes only for scales of economy.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#147
Quote by R45VT


No rush on the parts. I am going to replace the coupling caps on a blue tolex one and will try to get some good photos of a step by step.

I'll keep you posted. The pots were 4 bucks each, capacitors probably under $6 bucks and a few resistors. I'll do an inventory and get back to you.

Its amazing how cheap it is to make it sound better. I think for the larger coupling caps they cheaped out and stuck with 2 sizes only for scales of economy.


thanks, it is amazing how much a few little things can make such a difference.

but what bothers me is that i bet there were multiple electrical engineers and likely lots of changing and testing, and probably people playing it, why didn't they make it better from the factory? the cost difference would be probably within $2-$3 if even that.

and IIRC then it was their flagship amp when they were being sold.

but i guess thats why we get to have fun.

on a side note, i snagged that guitar a little bit ago. Ibanez Prestige 1570 in gunmetal finish, five star condition, to my door for like $503 or something. i needed something with a trem to drop tune. i will probably get it within the next five business days.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#148
Cool deal on the guitar.

Yeah it's amazing how close they were to a good sounding amp. Keep in mind capacitors have almost always been a factor in production. It's pretty funny.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#149
Quote by R45VT
Cool deal on the guitar.

Yeah it's amazing how close they were to a good sounding amp. Keep in mind capacitors have almost always been a factor in production. It's pretty funny.


yea it really is. valvekings are another example. i owned one for a while. that was way before i knew anything about electronics (still learning slowly), there are a ton of mods posted and i have heard several of the mods on like youtube or something and they sound like a totally different amp.

your next quest should be VK's. they are cheap, tons of them around.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#150
I sent you a PM.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#151
Quote by R45VT
I sent you a PM.


replied. thanks
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#152
Quote by trashedlostfdup
replied. thanks


Replied again. It would be a fun weekend project.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#153
Quote by R45VT
Wow....

I will take a peek at the schematic and give you a pointer in a bit. Maybe tomorrow. PM me if I forget as it will send me an E-mail.

That fuse powers the bulbs and AC heaters, goes into the diode rectifier for the DC heaters as well.


EDIT-

First off- pull the power tubes and retest with the 3A fuse. If it is ok then put the preamp tubes back in and retest.

Did you look to see if any of the 250mA fuses were blown?

Find C63, take a picture of that. Its in the group of 2 capacitors that you already photographed to the left of the fuse clip. It's the larger one. Also take a photo of TR1, its above the fuse clip.

If you had a multimeter it would actually be pretty easy to diagnose this as the circuit has a major short to pop the 3A with no bulbs or tubes.


Tried the things mentioned, nothing worked. Fuses kept blowing. Didn't take the pics because I am done with this amp. This is second Crate I have owned to have issues, issues that should not have happened. I am definitely not getting any more of their amps. Now I see why they are so cheap on the used market. My Vox AC-30 combo will keep me going until I get another valve head.

I do not have a multimeter so no readings to post.
Last edited by Saiko at Jan 14, 2013,
#154
Well I found a little more out- that circuit pulls 13 amp when first powered on- thats why it needs a slow blow.

It rests around 5.7amps AC with the light intact, 5.1A with no lights.

That fuse clip gets hot normally. Not sure why either of ours oxidized like they did. Possible bad heaters in the tubes.

Seriously its a .15c fix for the clip if you pull the chassis. (plus a little labor if you find someone to solder it)


Don't blame you being pissed and all. I pulled apart a 5150 from around the same time period and it is a champ internally. Not a single cracked solder joint and components f'd.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#156
Quote by Saiko
Tried the things mentioned, nothing worked. Fuses kept blowing. Didn't take the pics because I am done with this amp. This is second Crate I have owned to have issues, issues that should not have happened. I am definitely not getting any more of their amps. Now I see why they are so cheap on the used market. My Vox AC-30 combo will keep me going until I get another valve head.

I do not have a multimeter so no readings to post.


IMO thats a must for tracking down an issue in anything. i have at least 5 or 6 cheap ones that work for a few months at various places, and a good one at my bench that i trust.

you can go to harbor freight and get a multimeter for $5 easily probably $3

but i do feel you frustration. i have had to do that to a few amps (not crate) but its a pain in the rear.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#157
Quote by tctimthetoolman
looking for bias test point location for crate bv120h. any help appreciated


You have to buy a probe and have a meter.

https://www.eurotubes.com/cart/index.php?page=view_products&category_id=108&sub_category_id=109

I would get a probe like the $25 dollar one- and get a meter. If you don't feel comfortable doing it than take it to a tech. If you touch the bias probes with the amp on there is lethal voltage. You must make sure to have the probe hooked to the meter before switching on.


Also the chassis must be removed and flipped upside down to access the bias pot. You will need to set the transformers on a few books to elevate the chassis for enough clearance for the tubes and probe.

Any questions please ask.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#158
got the chassis open. should be just a day or two as far as things go i have a lot going on (knock on wood).

i would like to thank R45VT for his contributions to this thread and helping many of us out

i will be back as soon as its up and running.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#159
First off- don't kill yourself.

Secondly mark all the wires before you pull them off. They all have a "junction" number.

Third- have some fun testing it out afterwards.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
#160
Quote by R45VT
First off- don't kill yourself.

Secondly mark all the wires before you pull them off. They all have a "junction" number.

Third- have some fun testing it out afterwards.


thanks. i can't get the PCB to come out. i have the chassis out everything disconnected (washers, screws) except for wires i haven't pulled yet due to not being able to take good enough picture (need to stop my dad's tomorrow for DLSR), but i can't get the PCB loose. i don't see what would be holding it down.

my only thought but wanted to ask just in case, do i need to disconnect the power tube board as well? didn't seem to need to.

i have tested the power at the caps, is there anything else (pretty much zero or all zero). one had like one milliamp, and i used my cap drainer on it so that is at zero, and also it hasn't been turned on for at least six months.

everything is good looking on the inside.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
Last edited by trashedlostfdup at Feb 6, 2013,