kurtfletcher
Registered User
Join date: May 2011
40 IQ
#1
Does anyone have a schematic or a diagram to build a 1/4" Jack splitter? Something that will allow 1 input (i.e. Guitar) to go out to 4 outputs (Amps e.t.c.)
Many Thanks.
kurtfletcher
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Join date: May 2011
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#3
Unfortunately my electronic skills are not that good, It makes no sense to me! Do you have anything a bit more basic :-P
end_citizen
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#4
Quote by kurtfletcher
Does anyone have a schematic or a diagram to build a 1/4" Jack splitter? Something that will allow 1 input (i.e. Guitar) to go out to 4 outputs (Amps e.t.c.)
Many Thanks.


You've basically got 2 options. You can do a passive version (kind of what was shown in the previous post) or a buffered version.


The passive version is much simpler to build (just some wires, switches, and jacks). However, your signal is divided in 4 to go to the different amps.

The buffered version is a little trickier to build, but not hard. A couple resistors, some op-amps, and maybe a few capacitors as well. The plus side of this is a buffer puts out the same signal that came into it. You have to power it (with a 9v battery or power supply). You'll get better results this way, but you may not find it necessary.

Let me know which one you are more interested in, and I can draw up a diagram for you. Here's some docs about buffers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Buffers
kurtfletcher
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#6
Quote by end_citizen
You've basically got 2 options. You can do a passive version (kind of what was shown in the previous post) or a buffered version.


The passive version is much simpler to build (just some wires, switches, and jacks). However, your signal is divided in 4 to go to the different amps.

The buffered version is a little trickier to build, but not hard. A couple resistors, some op-amps, and maybe a few capacitors as well. The plus side of this is a buffer puts out the same signal that came into it. You have to power it (with a 9v battery or power supply). You'll get better results this way, but you may not find it necessary.

Let me know which one you are more interested in, and I can draw up a diagram for you. Here's some docs about buffers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Buffers

End_Citizen Thankyou for your information. Yes a passive version would be ideal as I am not very knowledgable on resistors e.t.c.

I've had a go at building a passive AB/Y Box before that works extremely well. rather than having it go out to two outputs, i have switched it around so that I have two guitars going to one output. This way when playing live I can merely press a button and switch guitars rather than unplugging etc.

Anyway, Yes If you could draw me up a Passive diagram, that would be most kind.
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#7


Images for jacks stolen from http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=87

The jacks I'm showing are these: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=24

This will ground out the inputs of the unused amp. So, that should prevent weird noises from those amps. Also, this can be expanded to have LEDs to show you which is on without getting a different switch.
Viban
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#9
so, if I understand end citizen correct all you would need for this is 5 jacks and 4 DPDT switches?
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#10
Quote by Viban
so, if I understand end citizen correct all you would need for this is 5 jacks and 4 DPDT switches?


For the passive version, yes + wire. The active version which would ensure minimal signal loss would require a little more than that.
R45VT
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#11
I like your schematic. Pictures of the actual components.

Maybe you started a new trend?
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#12
Quote by R45VT
I like your schematic. Pictures of the actual components.

Maybe you started a new trend?


A lot of people aren't sure which wire goes to which part of the jack. Smallbear's picture makes it very easy for me to explain. When talking circuits for pedals or amps, I typically go schematic for time's sake.


To the TS, you can get by with a SPDT switch and achieve the same results, but I can't find a well priced one (nearly $8 for one Carling brand). Also, with this setup you can add LEDs to show which amps are active if your ears aren't working that particular day.
Viban
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#13
so I used that schematic and wired everything up aside from the input jack, they only had 4 of the kind in the picture and then one kind with some form of box enclosure (see picture) my question is, which terminal does the hot go to and which does the ground go to?

there is one terminal around the collar, and one at the bottom.
Attachments:
photo (5).JPG
end_citizen
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#14
Collar probably = ring. The one at the bottom is probably the tip (see previous diagram).

If you've got a multimeter or ohm-meter, you can plug in a cable and see which one is going to the tip and which one is going to the ring.


SIDE NOTE THAT IS NOT IMPORTANT FOR THIS PROJECT: What is being called the ring in that diagram is actually the sleeve. I don't know why they decided to label it the ring when that is for stereo jacks.
Viban
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#15
hey I did some testing today and for whatever reason when I flip the switch wired up to the jack all I get is hum/static sound, could you please take a look over my wiring to make sure I don't have something crossed?

the first picture is the wiring on the switches, the wires that go upwards are going towards the input
the second picture is the jacks themselves, the color of my ground wire is green and the hot is the red, any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

also the switch all the way to the left is the one that the ground to the input goes to
Attachments:
photo (6).JPG
photo (7).JPG
Last edited by Viban at May 2, 2012,
end_citizen
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#16
It's hard to tell from those photos, but it looks like you don't have any of the signal wires hooked up to go to the amp.

The brown wires in my diagram are attached at both the top right and bottom left corners of the switches.
X-plorer88
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#21
End-citizen why are you using double pole switches? This would be the equivalent schematic with single poles.

end_citizen
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#22
Simply for the ability to add LEDs if they so choose.

EDIT: And also I was working off the cheapest footswitches available from smallbear.
Last edited by end_citizen at May 5, 2012,
X-plorer88
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#23
To add LEDs you need a dedicated pole. Wiring the hot tip of each of the 4 splits to the common of each switch is the best way to do it. Yours works fine, but the extra pole is redundant.
end_citizen
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#24
Quote by X-plorer88
To add LEDs you need a dedicated pole. Wiring the hot tip of each of the 4 splits to the common of each switch is the best way to do it. Yours works fine, but the extra pole is redundant.


Indeed it is, but I did not realize that the other guy was not going to use toggle switches. I just looked on Smallbear, found the cheapest footswitch and started drawing. Your design is certainly simpler and still allows for LEDs.
Clone_Tekboy
Registered User
Join date: Apr 2012
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#26
Quote by end_citizen
You've basically got 2 options. You can do a passive version (kind of what was shown in the previous post) or a buffered version.


The passive version is much simpler to build (just some wires, switches, and jacks). However, your signal is divided in 4 to go to the different amps.

The buffered version is a little trickier to build, but not hard. A couple resistors, some op-amps, and maybe a few capacitors as well. The plus side of this is a buffer puts out the same signal that came into it. You have to power it (with a 9v battery or power supply). You'll get better results this way, but you may not find it necessary.

Let me know which one you are more interested in, and I can draw up a diagram for you. Here's some docs about buffers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Buffers



Sorry to bring a dead thread back to life ^_^'
Hey end_citizen, I was wondering if you could post up a buffered version of your amazing schematics. If possible, could you also show how you might go about changing it to 6 or more outputs too? Also, this may be beyond the extent of this thread, but I was also wondering how you might go about doing the opposite; 4 or so inputs into one mono output.
I'm more of an audio producer, so I'm not to fond of any signal loss
thanks for your help!

P.S. this is my first UG forum post, so forgive any of my tactlessness.
Viban
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Join date: Nov 2011
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#27
This would have gone better in a PM bud, but I understand as it's your first post.

With the passive one, you just plug the output into what would normally be the input, and the inputs into what would normally be the outputs. However you have to make sure that the output between the things is similar otherwise one will overpower the other. However I believe that the buffered version remedies this.
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DuctTapeNinja
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#28
Quote by R45VT
http://cathbard.com/images/temp/ABY.png

Cathbard posted this, its a splitter for two amps, it will get you an idea. Modify as needed.

What is the purpose of the 10 megohm resistors on the switches? Will that prevent popping? Or is there another reason?


I've built quite a bit from schems, but I'm trying to learn more of the reasoning/etc behind everything now.
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X-plorer88
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#29
I think it prevents the output hot from floating during the brief switching moment when the wiper isn't connected to either poles. It should suppress any noise from the amp when the switch occurs.
mself61
Registered User
Join date: Jul 2007
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#30
talk about bringing an old thread back to life .. I would also like to see the above schem. incorporated with a buffer, I want to send my guitar signal to 4 different units. I seen the diagrams for the buffers but unsure how it would be wired up with this.
would be nice if some pictures of a unit inside and out were available also.
Invader Jim
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#31
Take any of these buffers (from post 4 above): http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Buffers/

And wire it immediately following the input jack of the diagram in post 7 above. Buffer input to input jack, buffer output to the 4 switches. That's all there is to it.
Last edited by Invader Jim at Oct 25, 2014,