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This is my entry into the 100GBP ($154.39USD) challenge for 2012. It is a Modulus Flea Bass inspired design. I plan to also attempt to build a laminate neck similar to the design used by the ex-Factor bass (Phillip Kubicki's company Factor Basses ). I shall post my running parts list and approximation of parts not yet obtained in this first thread. I'm still gathering pieces but hope to start on the build and at least build a test neck to test out the laminate neck process soon. I plan on finishing the body in a bright green color with a borax swirl finish (some testing will be required on that as well).

Parts List
Fretboard- 3x3/8x28 Birdseye Maple $20
Neck Material- Rift cut Hard Maple $25
Bell Forrest Products
Body- A piece of Oak i've been saving for a project just like this $10
'Locally' sourced lumber mill Hopkins Family Woodworks

Bridge- Vintage Bridge GFS- $13.95
Pickup- Music Man GFS- $27.95
Truss Rod- StewMac 4mm Nut Hot Rod (24")- $20.99
Pots- StewMac Alpha 250k- 2@$2.73=$5.65
Tuners- EBay- $13.95
Mounting Hardware- (ferrels, screws) TBD
Nut- $0.66 (ebay)
Knobs- TBD
Jack- $1.15 (PedalParts)

Total Cost $139.30
Total Allowance: $154

Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jul 30, 2012,
This is my rough rendering of the intended shape and finish
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jun 6, 2012,
nice man! get that swirling right and it will look sick. Looking forward to see how you cope with the budget
Thanks, im trying to avoid having to plane the material for the neck down, but my trip to the Home Depot last night was unproductive. I was hoping to find some hardwood laminate/veneer material but no such luck, if i cant find an option in the correct budget range than im gonna have to buy larger material and rip them down on the table saw and than plane each piece.

My drummer came up with the idea to do an alternating skunk pattern, which would provide an interesting effect on the side of the neck due to the tapering. It would look like something to this effect. This is based on 1/16" laminate pieces totaling about 32 pieces, but im thinking 1/8" is gonna be a better option going forward. That would be about 22 pieces.

Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jun 7, 2012,
First of the parts have started coming in. Got a cheap set of squire tuners on ebay for $14. Also got the fretboard in, im still on the fence as whether to do a fretless or fretted bass. Im not sure if the configuration of this bass, electronics wise, will lend to a good tone for a fretless with the MM pups. But heres the wood, 35" birds eye maple fretboard i got from Bell Forest Products

i would go fretless just for the appeal. Plus, if you got the swirl and skunk combo, it would look sick!
Thats what im thinking too @Educated 240. Ive been toying with inlay ideas using an epoxy/dye mix to fill, so not technically an inlay in the true sense. Ive gone back and forth between two ideas, the (featured below) octopus inlay with accent color inlay dot at the 12th fret, or some variation of the borax swirl effect which i havent really been able to render something that ive been happy with. Im also thinking about only doing side dots and no fret marker inlays. Im gonna get a high-res photo of the fretboard so i can accurately render the tone and color of the wood. Anyone have any thoughts?

Parts update 6/14: Everything has now come in with the exception of my neck wood. I hope to get that this weekend
QUICK UPDATE: I have decided that the laminate neck will not be cost/time effective for this build. Due to the restrictions of cost, it would be too much to buy hardwood pieces long enough already ripped to 1/8" thickness due to the length needed for a bass neck (~35"). Im not in a position where i can easily rip these pieces down. I did find some very helpful info online about building a production stop for a table saw to rip thin laminate, so i will definitely do the laminate on the next build, but its just not gonna work cost wise for this one.

I have instead grabbed a rift cut maple neck blank from the good folks at Bell Forrest, who i highly recommend, i received the products in a timely and affordable manner and was very impressed with their follow up customer service. I have updated my cover photo with all 3 stocks of wood (fingerboard, neck, body) and plan on trying to get the neck template cut and blank planed to the correct thickness. Depending on how much time i can get in the shop i may try to rough cut the body and get the pup template routed. Working on all the template and math type work this week in preparation of cutting day.
Thanks to this storm: (Winds measured by Doppler radar at 10:05 p.m. Pink shades indicate gusts of over 64 knots or 74 mph)

Not much was accomplished this weekend due to the subsequent power loss friday night. I was able to cut the neck template out of mdf prior to the storm so it wasnt a total wash. Gonna try for round 2 again this weekend unless i can get free time to go out to the shop on the 4th. We're getting a new Delta spindle sander in this week (!) so that should be fun to set up and help with the headstock shaping.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jul 2, 2012,
Made progress on the neck yesterday. Got the neck blank planed down to size. Had a slight issue in that on the finishing pass it took a little more out than intended and the thickness is about a 1/16th shy of 7/8's. While less than ideal, im hoping i didnt pass a structural failing point. I was thinking i would maybe leave the fretboard a little prouder, but that doesnt really make sense as that would just increase overall thickness. Anyone have any thoughts? Is it not a big deal and more of a feel issue? The profile of the neck is just gonna be a little less cut than originally planned at this point.

Also got the template cut (again) without screwing it up this time and sanded the neck profile down and checked it against a straight edge. Hoping the spindle sander comes in this week so i can get the headstock sanded down and start to cut the neck and get the truss rod in this weekend.

edit: Just for clarification, the neck in the photo is being used as a guide for construction purposes
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jul 5, 2012,
Yeah, its so damn hot out we only were out for about 2 hours. I was slacking off on the photos in the interest of getting it done without getting heatstroke. Gonna look at putting an AC unit in the workshop as the 100+ degree days are really cutting down on workability. Should be able to get a little more done this Saturday evening (assuming we have power). Gonna try and cut some body blanks to test the swirl patterns as well. More pictures to come, as a photographer i should not be such a slouch, ill redouble my efforts. Heres a look at the headstock layout i was working up on paper before rendering it in illustrator.

Slow progress this week as we are still waiting on the spindle sander to get going on the build. I may just hand sand the template. In other template news, i purchased a 2" straight bit for the tracing router as well as a bottom mounted bearing cutter and may just go ahead and rough cut and rout the body so i can get to work on the pockets and control cavities. I also received the enamel paints that will be used for the swirling, so if i can get a couple body blanks cut i can test that out. Still not sure how to best paint the solid undercolor, other than buying the StewMac solid colors and mixing them. Any thoughts anyone?

you could use the reranch paints. i have never used them but i have only read good things about them.
Thanks for the info on ReRanch, I've looked at them before so maybe ill give them a try out. I probably will just go with StemMac in order to get the right shade of green, but maybe not.

Attempted to make progress this weekend, finally got the spindle sander in so i figure i would rout so body blanks to test out the borax swirling and figure the right pattern i want. Im gonna document that with video to look back over afterwards so ill post that up here too. I got new bits for this project as i wanted them to be sharp as hell, but i didnt have the router cranked up to enough rpms, and promptly took a chunk out of the master template.

Posted up to rout

Taking a bite out of crime

Epic fail! While frustrating, i figured i may as well just cut the blanks since they're just for testing anyway. I cut two of them and ill hit them with a roundover bit and a sander tonight, then paint them up with some Behr ultra i have at the house that's a forest green color just to get a base coat and sealer on them.

Sandwiched final product.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jul 23, 2012,
As some of you can tell, at this stage this is a weekend project. My brother in laws shop is north of Baltimore so its not the most convention for me during the week, at least during the large scale tool phase (milling, routing, ect). Spent a couple hours of limited free time Saturday cleaning up the shop so we could make a mess again.

Halfway through cleaning up the work weeks mess.

While not super critical, the neck template is all sanded down and ready for some necking, which hopefully will happen this coming Saturday, i just didn't have enough time to get everything done at once so i held off on it.

He also finally got the spindle sander so I sanded down the body templates. I should be able to get a couple coats of primer on it no problem this week to test out some borax swirling.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Jul 23, 2012,
First up, got some cheapo fluorescent paint from home depot for the testing blanks. The paint actually dulled down a little so i was glad i got it as bright as i did. Final body color should be a bit brighter than this. Also, for those of you interested on where to find Borax for the swirl, after much wandering of aisles in Target and smart phone searching, i found (apparently) the most common brand name "20 Mule Team" Borax. It should be located in your local target next to the powdered detergent. Borax was used as a laundry booster for years until all this new fancy stuff like shout and whatnot has come along, and is an all natural, environmentally friendly alternative (dont say you never learned anything here).

Heres a shot of the neck blank after being centerlined and being prepped for the truss rod cutting. Im using the StewMac Hotrod truss for this project. After doing some reading when i realized i didnt have a 7/32" router bit, i just went with a 1/4" bit. The rod fits with a slight bit of room so i may shave down a couple pieces of off-cut to shim it before siliconing it into place.

Since i didnt have plunge router available to me, i just had to slide it in where the router jumped anyway. This is the aftermath of the rout. Im on the fence as to whether i should fill the little chunks in, thoughts? I could probably just bondo it easily so the fretboard has an even bonding surface.

Then i rough cut the shape down (for some reason there are no pictures of this, sorry). This is the neck after being cut with the template reattached and ready for tracing with the router.

Unfortunately, i hit a major snag at this point. I couldnt get the bit to center correctly in the jig and after messing with it for a good bit of time, including getting the welder out and tack welding the shank so it wouldnt rotate, i gave up and got a bottom bearing tracing bit and was gonna do it upside down, until i discovered that the router shaft had somehow been knocked out of alignment. Piss! I had to pack in in at that point which was frustrating, but social obligations called, and it was scorching hot out by mid afternoon. Up this week, getting the router repaired and sealing the body blanks for testing. Catching a couple shows this week monday and tuesday so wednesday will be the first opportunity to really get into anything unfortunately.
Made good progress on the neck this weekend!

Made a jig with some leftover pieces from rough cutting the neck to plane down the headstock.

Headstock planed down to 1/2 inch thickness

Had to go old school to drill the truss rod access hole. The good old trusy rusty Sears and Roebuck hand drill, which took about 20 minutes to drill the hole.

Used a piece of shoe molding and some 120 grit sandpaper to sand the profile of the relief. stopped a little short of the nut and will sand it the rest of the way once the fret board is glued. This also took forever.

I then realized i hadnt planed the fret board so i had to drag the planer back out and run it through the machine a couple times. For some reason the supplier only planed one side of it before shipping. Ive read that birdseye maple needs to be placed with the fat end of the birds eye knots on the bottom so they dont pop out, makes sense to me.

Clamp city! Used the recommended 3/4 inch strip of tape to prevent glue in the truss rod channel. For some reason i didnt take a picture when i took the clamps off, ill post that next. I do have a 6" radius block, but am a little concerned with some of the other posts about uneven sanding, so im debating building a jig or figuring out some way to prevent the board from getting unevenly sanded. Ive used it for refinishing with no issues, but the board is already more or less shaped at that point.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Aug 13, 2012,
Quote by dsss guitars
looking good so far.........i've never made a bass guitar.....i really should one day.

Looking forward to seeing the paint job.

sharp tools to ya

Thanks man, ive only built from kits before so this is my first bass, but thats my primary instrument so i figured, why not? I had about 3 builds i had designed up and had to pick one between this build, a PRS inspired bass, and a custom tele. A couple of guys were already doing tele's (which are looking awesome) and i figured this would be way out there as far as the finish so i should try it out.

As far as the finish goes, ive been doing a lot of reading and research about the swirl and decided to buy one of these bad boys.

It only cost $9 for a 200w fish tank heater so i can now get the correct 78 degree temp in the water that seems so critical to the swirl. When doing my pre-render:

I based the rendering on 2 separate swirl sites, one being near the horn and one near the bridge position so with my two test blanks im going to try a double dip on one (one for each swirl pattern with will create the layered effect, and one as a single dip. The heater should come in by next Wednesday so im hoping to do the test blanks next week at some point.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Aug 16, 2012,
Sooooo, life gets in the way sometimes. Finally got the neck roughed out and ready for shaping over the weekend. I trimmed the fretboard close to size and then hit it with a bearing router bit to trim it flush. I also got a new shinto rasp to aid in shaping the neck, so im looking forward to using that.

Unfortunately i haave a job interview Thursday so much of this week will be spent working on that, but im hoping to start hitting this project full tilt starting this weekend. Saturday is Experience PRS at the Paul Reed Smith Factory on Kent Island, and im very much looking forward to checking that out again this year, several of the clinics are focused on design and building as well. Its always a good time, i highly recommend it.

Enough talk, heres some pictures

The relief in the board is really starting to be evident, im hoping i can get a real three-dimensionality out of it since im going fretless with no surface markers.
Practice Practice Practice.....thats what ive learned so far. Last night i finally had time to test the borax process, which was a learning process in itself. Unfortunately i decided to do it in the darkest corner of my garage so i dont have many photos of the process. The next test batch i plan on taping so i can look back at it to figure out what works best. The next test will have to wait til Wednesday since i foolishly broke my submersible heater by taking it out to stir without shutting it off. When i put it back in the glass cracked. Rookie mistake. Luckily they are cheap and i ordered another, higher wattage one this morning.

The initial test worked really well, i took a smaller sample out of the main tub. I purchased a 38 gallon rubbermade plastic tub to do the body dip in, which i discovered had to be reinforced on the sides with 2x4s and ratchet straps. 1 gallon is equivalent to 8 pounds, heavy stuff folks, lest we forget. Heres the initial test done with just blue paint on a scrap 2x3 square.

Because i broke the heater after stirring the borax a second time i paniced somewhat and decided to dip without waiting the prescribed 30 minutes since i was afraid it was going to cool off and fail for that reason. I had 2 blanks made and then at the end i decided to also dip the template carve, which wasnt pretreated.

The first one was a hideous sight to behold and i'm not gonna post that one cause it was, well, hideous.

Heres the second dip, the paint was very runny once it got up on the body. It also had air bubbling due to the borax not being settled in the water i think.

And the third (which turned out the best of the three, but its hard to tell since it didnt get the undercoating of green) was a thin skim layer on the body, had no running or drips in the paint once it was out of the tub.

So, what have we learned?

Firstly, the paint is shipped in a vacuum, which means it had separated since it had been sitting. The orange essentially fell right to the bottom as did a lot of the blue. Getting the pour correct was also difficult, although by the third color i realized, duh, just put the container in the water so you can get the lip right at the surface. Second: you dont need to add very much paint, especially since im using 5 colors. Third: i rushed this process too much first time around, i need to really take my time. It seemed to work better when the paint had time to sit on the surface, plus i didnt wait long enough after adding the borax, which was very clear in the larger tub.

So im gonna re-coat my test blanks and build a little wood box frame to go around the tub to help reinforce the sides for the next test dip this week. Also, im getting some gloves, it took a lot of scrubbing to get the paint of my hands, which i inadvertently 'swirled' during this process as well.
Quote by whoomit
That third one is really nice!

I was actually pretty happy with the third one too, i think i may go for that instead of trying to do the isolated swirls. I think it will look good with the final shape of the instrument and the chrome hardware. I think i may go crazy with it and get a set of these crazy strings, as long as they dont sound like turds:

Thats a little ways down the road though. I have been repeatedly delayed thanks to car issues but im hopeful that tonight i can finally get it squared away and work on carving the neck up. I got one of those shinto rasps so im eager to see how well they work.
My old bassist had those strings. Can't tell you what the tone was like though, as his were red! Seriously though I think they were half decent strings. They lasted quite a while but the colour does wear off.

The shinto rasps are fantastic. Use the rough side for most of the work, and give it a quick tidy up with the fine side before you feel the shape each time.
Progress in two parts yesterday, ill shut up and let the pictures do the talking

Somewhere in there is a neck. Side by side with the neck im using as a template

I split the neck into zones to get some semblance of order to the shaping progress. Put a center line on the neck and so i would know where the truss rod was. I then split the difference on either side of the center line and marked that. I then angled in from the edge of the neck to the outer line and rasped that uniformly. I then worked in from there to the center line so that the rough shape was pretty even.

I then took about a 1/4 of an inch off the top of the whole neck. I was super paranoid i was gonna hit the truss rod cavity, but luckily i didnt bottom out anywhere.

The heel and neck taper were incredibly challenging to shape, i wasnt expecting that at all. The heel took a good bit of time to work in to my satisfaction. Everything is a tool! I have a piece of 3/4 trim shoe mold that i used on the headstock and also proved its mettle again to get a nice round at the heel. I also wrapped a pencil with 60 grit sandpaper to get in the detail areas.

Heres the view Head to heel

...and heel to head

This probably took around 4 hours (easily) to the point where it is now, base sanded at 60 grit. Heres a profile shot so you can see the relief in the neck and curve

Even with just doing a quick sand down, i started to see some nice grain figure showing. (Neck is rift sawn maple)

Despite the amount of physical labor and time, it really is rewarding to see it take shape before your eyes, it must be what sculptors feel like when the rough figure emerges from the marble.

Also tested the swirling again, so ill post about that in a little bit.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Sep 24, 2012,
Radius-ed the fretboard up to 600 grit yesterday. I thought about building the jig everyone else has been using, but i was concerned about tear out with the birds eye from the router. I think ill definitely be building one for the next build though cause it took forever by hand. I built a crude jig to keep the 6" radius block (from stew mac) square so it wont get all weeble wobbly on me. This method would probably work best with some really dense wood or metal so it doesnt sand away at the edges like it did in my case. I originally built a trough for the initial rough sanding so i think it was okay since the shape had already been cut. Heres a quick shot.

The fret board feels incredibly smooth at 600, im wondering how much higher i should go, any thoughts? There is a small spot i discovered that needs to be patched by the end of the fretboard, but i have to get some super thin super glue for that. I made sure to collect a bunch of the sawdust to patch in there.

The grain and birds eye figure is showing really 3d now

The plan is to route the body to shape this weekend, ive been working on getting the schematics drafted up. Fingers crossed
Good work on the neck shaping

As for the fretboard, I sanded my £100 entry to 600 grit as well:

Looks shiny enough to me
The ever popular question when it comes to fretless necks, to mark or not to mark.
-Green oblong side dots for traditional markers only
-Traditional side dots with additional dots for every fret in a secondary color
-dots at every marker in one color only

For illustration this is the 12th fret (+ looking symbol)

Coming down to the wire on this one, hopefully im gonna make it. I had a slight lull in work due to out of town company. Anyway, here we go.

Blocks of wood falling away! its body rough cut time

The Rikon cut like a dream, only issue was due to it being a 10" bandsaw and not a 14" in that i had an issue cutting the right horn out. I just flipped it over and drew a revers of the template, problem solved.

Heres the rough cut next to the template. I had to order a new pattern bit to rout it out so that will have to wait til later in the week

On to the neck!
Discovered the radial arm saw blade was almost a perfect match for the nut slot, so i mounted the neck to a jig to keep it square, then cut it out. Since it was slightly too skinny i just got a set of square detail files and widened it out a 1/16th on an inch and got a perfect fit.

When i was sanding the fretboard, somehow this happened

So i drop filled it with sawdust from sanding and super glue and left it to cure overnight, we shall see how it worked tonight.
Its mock up time! (I needed to figure out where i could drill mounting holes in the body). On that note, i keep forgetting this is getting an opaque finish so i shouldnt sweat the body so much.

Template mounted up to the body and ready for routing

Then i started to get that sinking feeling of "Holy crap what if this all goes horribly wrong?" Morale of the story is, dont try and cut 2 year kiln dried oak in one pass. I had a little bit of tear out and really had to baby the router along, probably jacked up the bit a bit as well.

After freaking out for a minute i realized i can just fill this since its getting painted (this was my mantra for the night). Obviously less damage is better so i tried to stack templates to get more clearance on the bit so it would take less material out.

This was mildly acceptable but not the answer. After some debate, i packed it in for the night and ordered a shorter pattern bit so i can pick it up today after work. Always gotta learn thing the hard way....At least the part that worked alright turned out fine.

This is the back (hence the pencil lines from a different design) but the upper top half has been routed already and i rasped over quick to flatten it out. Fingers crossed that tonight is much more successful.
Ever have that moment where you're trying to drive a nail with the claw end of the hammer but aren't getting anywhere? I think that was my problem yesterday. I am trying out bits from a new supplier (MLCSwoodworking) and i think the issue is that they cut in an opposite direction than all the other bits i have. Pretty sure it was all user error. Anyway, did 3 passes with a shorter 1/2 pattern bit than came back and hit the whole thing with the 1 & 1/2" bit and it cut like a champ. Also picked up some Tung oil for the neck along with some minwax satin poly to spray on the neck.

This block has some really great figure, i would have liked to see a more carved top but no time for that now. (i accidentally scratched it bad by the screw hole when i tried to remove it with the screw not retracted all the way)

A little fuzz around the edge but its gonna get rounded over anyway

Template, body, swirl test blank

My next step is to add the round over on the edges and then route the nect pocket and electronics locations. For the cavity i think im gonna try and mirror the headstock shape. It may be slightly bigger than needed and probably wont get seen much if at all, but im interested to see it. Ill try to swirl with the cover installed so its seamless (im gonna make it out of the tail of the body and plane it down to size.
Thanks to a little storm named Sandy, i dont think im gonna make the deadline. I needed about two days of good weather (and power) to finish up, and i didn't get that the last few days. Gonna keep going anyway, just unfortunately wont make the deadline.
Yeah, im pretty disappointed. I missed two weekends of work time last month and i think that's what killed me. I worked for about 5 hours Friday and got the body rounded over, control cavity routed and rabbited for the the access panel. Got the knobs drilled out and the electronics wired as well. the neck is all marked up and ready for inlay side dot carving. Somehow i forgot to take any photos, i was just trying to truck through it and get as much done as possible. Neck is gonna be finished in tung oil with poly sprayed on the fretboard. Lost power in the workshop which prevented any tool progress, and its pouring outside the last 5 days which prevents any sort of spraying outside, plus its 40 degrees so its less than ideal for that anyway. Epic fail.

To be finished:
Neck and Pup pocket routed
tuner holes drilled
Continuing on with my past due assignment....

Routed the side dot markers last night. I'm modeling it after the side dot markers on the ExFactor basses by Phillip Kubicki, which use a sort of oval/rectangle instead of the standard dots most people use. (i cant seem to find a photo of them at the moment) Either way, im going with the Jason Lilliard method of inlay for this specific case (trying to honor the code of the 100GBP build, no expensive inlay material for me)

Quote by Jason Jillard
its super glue mixed with ebony dust, then its spread around into the channels and engraved sections of the neck.. then sanded flush. works pretty well, but a black pigment and epoxy would be far easier to work with, and get similar results (just blacker and more uniform)

i like this method for the tree inlay.. because it gives it the look of texture, but is still flat. more lifelike,

I made a quick router guide with a metal straight edge to make sure that if the dots are slightly crooked, at least they're all crooked in the same line. I also used a 18: metal ruler to provide a spacer to create consistently thinkness'ed routs as i only had 1/32" wide router bits. (everything else i had was way to large)

Heres a quick shot of the routing before i hit it with a sanding block to clean it up quick.

This is horribly out of focus, but this is the neck in its current state. I did green for the large traditional inlay makers and then orange for the fret markers, which are probably only an 1/8" wide squares. This was just an epoxy/paint mixture so hopefully it will be cured and ready to sand tonight when i get home.
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Nov 1, 2012,
So close to finishing, i was just a couple work days shy of the deadline. Worked for about 6 hours friday late into the night (probably 230am). Would have gone later but had to get up early in the morning to clear more trees from the hurricane...its too bad i dont have a kiln, a huge cherry tree dropped along with some locusts and a random pine tree. Here we go with the update!

I cut two test pockets in a scrap cut from the body material to test the tightness of the joint. I fine tuned it a little bit from the first template cut and that helped it a bit. Its not a super tight pocket, but its a bolt on neck anyway so as much as it pained me, i would have had to reshape the neck heel slightly to get a perfect fit. I figure after paint the 1/32"-1/16" gap will close up.

Test fitting the neck in the template

After building a larger router base to prevent any router dips due to the differing horn sizes, i got the pocket routed to depth (just shy of a 1/2") I know a lot of pockets are 5/8", but i did the math multiple times to verify the dimensions, as well as the obvious test fitting. After cutting the pocket, i test fit it and discovered that having a blocky heel on the body sucked for playability, so i got some 80 grit sandpaper and shaped a 1/2" round-over. Feels much better already.

I then got to work with a ball peen hammer handle and some more sandpaper wrapped around it(in lieu of a pneumatic spindle sander) and shaped out a belly cut. While it took forever by hand, im really happy with the feel of it and the rounded edge transition flows really smoothly. I hit that area with some 160 grit sandpaper after the rough shaping to smooth everything out.

It was hard to show the depth so heres a straight edge to show the dip

Heres an unobstructed view

I then cut the recess for the ferrels and drilled the screws holes out and joined it together. The neck screws i got from Stew Mac were about 1/4" too long so i clipped them down with a pair of side cutters.

Heres a side shot of the pocket as well as the end result of the epoxy inlay. it didnt take as well as i hoped in a couple spots so i need to touch that up during the week. i think the issue where it didnt work as well was due to my poor applicator (a plastic spoon). Im gonna go pick up some cake decorating spatulas this week from the craft store which work really well for caulking, i just didn't have any at home which i didn't realize until i mixed the epoxy.

I started working up the positioning for the tuners before having to call it quits for the night and cut a test blank but im not happy with the tolerance for the ferrels so i scrapped it. I need to find a funky paddle bit size to cut it.

To do list:
-tuners drilled
-bridge installed
-PUP routed
-touch up side dots
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Nov 7, 2012,
Thanks man, the green is definitely visible, gotta clean up the orange fret markers still.

Thinking about doing this design as an inlay at the 12th fret

Any thoughts?

Gonna try the Recon Stone from Custom Luthier
Last edited by BirdRiverCustom at Nov 8, 2012,
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