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red.guitar
Imagine All The People
Join date: Mar 2007
3,037 IQ
#1
So I plugged my MXR 10 band EQ in front of my Vox last night, and as soon as I plugged in the power supply, the two outside slide lights started blinking on and off.

When I turn the pedal on, and all the slides light up, none of them blink! As soon as I turn the pedal off, the two outside slides will start blinking again.

This is the first time this has every happened. The pedal seems to be working fine, but this is just bugging me. I'm using the 18v adapter that came with the pedal, like always.

Does anyone have an explanation for this?
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jthm_guitarist
"funny" but "unmemorable"
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#2
Is it a quick uneven blinking? Could be a loose component.

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BCKRedBaron
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Join date: Jan 2012
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#3
Is everything else functioning correct? Are those sliders having the intended effect on your tone?

I got my 10-band used off ebay and it does the same thing. I'm using the adapter like you are. But otherwise there's nothing at all wrong with mine. I think it might be just a quirk with those pedals, but you should be fine. I don't believe it's anything to worry about function-wise.
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olix95
Registered User
Join date: Jul 2008
300 IQ
#4
i notice my 10-band will do that when i get clipping
BCKRedBaron
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131 IQ
#5
olix, do you usually run yours in front of the amp, or in the fx loop?

Sorry, sheldonpardy, didn't mean to hijack your thread...
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red.guitar
Imagine All The People
Join date: Mar 2007
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#6
Quote by BCKRedBaron
olix, do you usually run yours in front of the amp, or in the fx loop?

Sorry, sheldonpardy, didn't mean to hijack your thread...


No worries man

The pedal seems to be working fine. I'll take a better look at it in a sec, just to be sure.

I use to always run my EQ through the effects loop of coupe, and in front of my vox, but lately I've been just running it in front of both amps. Mainly just because it's easier when I'm using my pedal board between home, and band practice.
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
02' Dean TC Z

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Lavatain
5150 III Enthusiast
Join date: May 2008
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#7
This happens when the pedal is receiving or sending too much signal. Either you're pushing way too much power into it, or you just need to ease off the gain and volume controls. Mine works fine and only does this when I turn volume and gains up to clipping levels.
BCKRedBaron
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#8
I'm mainly using mine as a boost over the Distortion channels on my Peavey Ultra. I used to use a TS9, but the 10-band lets me more thoroughly tweak the shape of my boost. Haven't tried it in the FX loop yet.

^Lavatain, thanks for confirming this. Since I wasn't using mine in the FX loop (where it could be receiving a too-strong input) I was unsure if that was the cause. I suppose I'll be backing my boost down a little bit now
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7 String Legion
Last edited by BCKRedBaron at Nov 5, 2012,
ragingkitty
meow?
Join date: Jun 2008
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#9
Maybe your pedal decided it needed some bling?

Have you checked the manual? It sound say something especially if it is related to clipping or pushing too much gain.
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Blktiger0
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#10
Yeah, blinking on those means that it's clipping. If you don't have a high-output signal going into it, then maybe something is defect. They are pretty wimpy about input, though. I run mine in my effects loop, and I have the "Send" level EXTREMELY low (almost on zero) and then I have to run the return level extremely high in order to achieve unity gain. I really wonder why they have such low headroom.
red.guitar
Imagine All The People
Join date: Mar 2007
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#11
I never thought about clipping. I really didn't think Im running that much signal in. I'll check it out tho.

I have my volume and gain set at 0. I use to run this pedal of my coupe with the gain and volume turned up a little, and I never got it to clip then,
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
02' Dean TC Z

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EVH 5150iii
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
Peavey VTM 60
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ragingkitty
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#12
As a rule, you should always check if an FX inputs requires a line level input or a signal level input. A line level input requires lower level signal gain than signal level inputs.

However this is odd as most guitar pedals usually use a signal level input rather than line. With the exception of some "designed for studio use pedals". In the case of these pedals they usually have a input level selector.
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trashedlostfdup
diet coke fiend.
Join date: Apr 2010
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#13
my MXR 10 band died after having it for a year. i went through it but nothing appears wrong. got at it with a meter for a while and couldn't find anything. kind of a disappointment. i bought it used so i guess sometimes you get the shaft.

i haven't looked at it for probably a year, i will at some point because i am better with working on pedals and amps.
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R45VT
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#14
Quote by trashedlostfdup
my MXR 10 band died after having it for a year. i went through it but nothing appears wrong. got at it with a meter for a while and couldn't find anything. kind of a disappointment. i bought it used so i guess sometimes you get the shaft.

i haven't looked at it for probably a year, i will at some point because i am better with working on pedals and amps.


x2. I have one that worked and now doesn't. The lights flicker just as the TS described, when playing through it hard. Never used to do that. Seems to be a common failure. I have it torn apart some where. I should dig it out and try it to out what is going on. Difficult without a schematic and a DSO. Nothing like running a signal generator into it and checking downstream until you find it. With the LEDs blinking it sounds like power supply/ground. I remember checking the incoming power and all was good. Further downstream. At least i ruled out the power supply as the culprit.
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trashedlostfdup
diet coke fiend.
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#15
Quote by R45VT
x2. I have one that worked and now doesn't. The lights flicker just as the TS described, when playing through it hard. Never used to do that. Seems to be a common failure. I have it torn apart some where. I should dig it out and try it to out what is going on. Difficult without a schematic and a DSO. Nothing like running a signal generator into it and checking downstream until you find it. With the LEDs blinking it sounds like power supply/ground. I remember checking the incoming power and all was good. Further downstream. At least i ruled out the power supply as the culprit.


i don't remember lights flickering, but it was a while ago. plugged in it makes a lot of noise and popping (multiple amps, cables, in fx loop and out plugged in different places and rooms and everything). used contact cleaner on all of the sliders and the jacks, which i probably will replace because they are cheap. but all of the electrical tests appear fine.
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alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


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R45VT
Doesn't speak guitar
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#16
Quote by trashedlostfdup
i don't remember lights flickering, but it was a while ago. plugged in it makes a lot of noise and popping (multiple amps, cables, in fx loop and out plugged in different places and rooms and everything). used contact cleaner on all of the sliders and the jacks, which i probably will replace because they are cheap. but all of the electrical tests appear fine.


Yeah it pops and makes noise along with the LED flickering. Its been a while since I messed with it last. I think it had to be plugged into an amp to start to act up. Hit a chord and watch it blink. I should go find mine and set it on the work bench for this weekend.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Cathbard
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#17
Quote by ragingkitty
As a rule, you should always check if an FX inputs requires a line level input or a signal level input. A line level input requires lower level signal gain than signal level inputs.

However this is odd as most guitar pedals usually use a signal level input rather than line. With the exception of some "designed for studio use pedals". In the case of these pedals they usually have a input level selector.

The MXR 10 has a gain control to sort that out.

Turn down the gain on the pedal. If flashing is clipping it will stop when you turn the gain right down won't it? That's the whole point of the gain control, it's there to optimise the signal going into the pedal so you can use it wherever you want to.
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red.guitar
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#18
I'll try playing with the gain levels a bit, and see if that help.

Its strange, becasue when I turn the pedal off, even if my amps off, the lights still blink!

I'm gonna email dunlop and see what they have to say.
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
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Jet City JCA50H
Peavey VTM 60
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Blktiger0
The Name's Devon! ;)
Join date: Sep 2007
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#19
If you're running it in front of the amp, having the amp on or off won't effect it, and it's supposed to still blink if the pedal is off, as it's still measuring the signal running through it, and with that signal running through it, it can still clip. As long as your guitar is putting signal into it, it can clip.

If it's in the effects loop and it's blinking with the amp off, them something seems amiss.
R45VT
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#20
Quote by Blktiger0
If you're running it in front of the amp, having the amp on or off won't effect it, and it's supposed to still blink if the pedal is off, as it's still measuring the signal running through it, and with that signal running through it, it can still clip. As long as your guitar is putting signal into it, it can clip.

If it's in the effects loop and it's blinking with the amp off, them something seems amiss.



Yeah the MXR site has the blinking in the FAQ.

Regarding the blinking they say to lower the volume of the guitar or the volume of the pedal. Just an FYI to all.

It's a ****ing 18v pedal you think it could have headroom.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Nov 9, 2012,
ragingkitty
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Join date: Jun 2008
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#21
Quote by Cathbard
The MXR 10 has a gain control to sort that out.

Turn down the gain on the pedal. If flashing is clipping it will stop when you turn the gain right down won't it? That's the whole point of the gain control, it's there to optimise the signal going into the pedal so you can use it wherever you want to.


Yeah I was aware of that, IIRC the regular MXR10 has an input gain level, whereas the KK10 has input and output controls, but I was just putting that little piece of information out there.
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R45VT
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#22
Here is a link to the FAQ for all interested.

http://www.jimdunlop.com/product/m108-10-band-graphic-eq


The 10-Band Graphic EQ FAQs
Q: Why do my M108 10-Band Graphic EQ sliders’ lights blink?
A: The sliders blink when the pedal is clipping. Lower the volume on your guitar or with the sliders on the pedal.


And the 10band is Hardwire bypass.

HARDWIRE BYPASS
When you switch an effect off, your guitar signal bypasses the effect’s circuitry. There are a few ways to make this happen. A lot of older pedals use hardwire bypass, which keeps your signal constantly connected to the effect’s input and flowing through its circuitry even when disengaged. It’s with this type of bypass that you get signal degradation from both your cables and effect circuitry, so it only takes a few of these pedals in your chain to drastically change your tone. Few pedals are made this way anymore—at Dunlop, we only use it with certain pedals that are designed to vintage specs, such as those in the MXR Script series.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Nov 9, 2012,
Blktiger0
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#23
Quote by R45VT
Yeah the MXR site has the blinking in the FAQ.

Regarding the blinking they say to lower the volume of the guitar or the volume of the pedal. Just an FYI to all.

It's a ****ing 18v pedal you think it could have headroom.


That's what I was thinking. Does anyone with knowledge of pedals know why this is the case? I'm quite curious, as it's been somewhat of a pain for me.
Cathbard
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#24
I'm sure if you turned the input gain on the pedal down to zero there would be no clipping. That control is there to get some boost for very small inputs (like old s/c pickups for example) and pad down high signals like line level gear (like a keyboard). So if it's turned down it has heaps of headroom. A moderate input being able to be cranked up to where it clips the next stage is a good thing. They are offering you the widest operating range that they can. It's up to you to set the levels correctly, that's why they give you a clip indicator. You find clipping and back it off a little until it stops. Then you adjust the output for unity or boost or whatever it is you are hoping to achieve.
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red.guitar
Imagine All The People
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#25
I used my EQ at practice tonight, infront of my Coupe, and there was not problem!

I don't really understand whats going on. I'm pushing a MUCH stronger signal through the pedal when I use it with my Coupe, so I'm not 100% convienced that its clipping. 90% of the time that I'm using it with my VOX, I have my guitars volume rolled back as well.
Guitars:
PRS Custom 24
Gibson Les Paul 60's Tribute
85' MIJ Strat
97' Snakepit Les Paul
LP Traditional 1960 Zebra
02' Dean TC Z

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EVH 5150iii
Peavey Ultra 112
Jet City JCA50H
Peavey VTM 60
Peavey XXX
R45VT
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#27
So I pulled my MXR 10band out and threw it together. No clipping but I do get a crackling type noise even with no input plugged in, only when the pedal is engaged.

The guitar signal will go through it and drown noise out. When you stop playing the noise is there. I have the PCB out and will probably take a peak at it tomorrow. I wish I had a DSO at home. I can the crackling in the output with my fluke on the mV setting. May start to map out some of the circuit if I don't see anything stupid tomorrow.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Blktiger0
The Name's Devon! ;)
Join date: Sep 2007
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#28
Quote by Cathbard
I'm sure if you turned the input gain on the pedal down to zero there would be no clipping. That control is there to get some boost for very small inputs (like old s/c pickups for example) and pad down high signals like line level gear (like a keyboard). So if it's turned down it has heaps of headroom. A moderate input being able to be cranked up to where it clips the next stage is a good thing. They are offering you the widest operating range that they can. It's up to you to set the levels correctly, that's why they give you a clip indicator. You find clipping and back it off a little until it stops. Then you adjust the output for unity or boost or whatever it is you are hoping to achieve.


See, I didn't realize that's what it was for. I was afraid to mess with the Gain setting with it in my loop, for fear it would f*** with my tone.

I just leave the Volume and Gain sliders at dead center, but maybe I'll mess with them to see if it does have an undesirable effect on my tone. Honestly, I have unity gain as it is, so maybe I'll just leave it the hell alone and not worry about it
Cathbard
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#29
Unity between input and output is one thing (all that requires is an output volume control), the gain control allows you to level out the signal inside the pedal itself. The aim is to get as much signal into the pedal as you can without any clipping so that everything inside there is running at optimal operating conditions.
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Yamaha SBG500
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Randall RM100 & RM20
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R45VT
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#30
Well I can see the noise with my meter... now to trace down....
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Cathbard
Grumpy Old Tech
Join date: Oct 2009
2,565 IQ
#31
You have a 'scope don't you?
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Blktiger0
The Name's Devon! ;)
Join date: Sep 2007
3,630 IQ
#32
Quote by Cathbard
Unity between input and output is one thing (all that requires is an output volume control), the gain control allows you to level out the signal inside the pedal itself. The aim is to get as much signal into the pedal as you can without any clipping so that everything inside there is running at optimal operating conditions.


So, Ideally, should I have the gain slider cutting as much as possible with the "Send" level on my loop as high as possible without clipping? Would that be better than keeping it centered and having it to where if I'm beating the F*** out of my strings with the guitar volume on 10, it begins to slightly clip? I have the latter set up now, but if it would be more optimal the other way, maybe I'll play with it. In addition, should I be playing with the Volume slider at all in this?
Cathbard
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Join date: Oct 2009
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#33
You should be chasing unity. You don't want the loop to be anything else either. Setting the send and receive to about halfway and adjusting them both about the same amount until you achieve unity is where I'd start. The pedal should never clip so adjust its gain accordingly once you've set up the amp's loop - then chase unity through the pedal using the output volume. Done.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
Last edited by Cathbard at Nov 11, 2012,
R45VT
Doesn't speak guitar
Join date: Dec 2009
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#34
Quote by Cathbard
You have a 'scope don't you?


Sadly no. I have 3 DVOMs. I can tell you that the noise is highest coming out of the DPDT switch... 100mV AC spikes(the wire that runs to the output signal)... I might switch the switch and retest. It think I have a few laying around. Nothing spikes near that coming in to the switch assembly.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Cathbard
Grumpy Old Tech
Join date: Oct 2009
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#35
There's no real excuse for not having a scope these days. People are tossing away old CRO's for nothing. I scored one for less than it cost in shipping. It's only 20MHz but that's more than enough for audio.

Off to ebay with you.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band
R45VT
Doesn't speak guitar
Join date: Dec 2009
1,110 IQ
#36
Quote by Cathbard
There's no real excuse for not having a scope these days. People are tossing away old CRO's for nothing. I scored one for less than it cost in shipping. It's only 20MHz but that's more than enough for audio.

Off to ebay with you.


Prices are cheap.... I'll keep my eyes open and pick one up in the near future. I had an old Snap-On one from Auto's... last time I fired it up the LCD was so dim I couldn't even tell it was on. I forgot to bring it home with me from my parents. Maybe I can find a replacement LCD.

I see some tektronix going for a couple hundred bucks.
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Cathbard
Grumpy Old Tech
Join date: Oct 2009
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#37
Just keep watching for a few days, you'll see all sorts of shit pass through. Mine was an old government one, an Advance Instruments.
So nothing flash but it was like $20 or something silly.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
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R45VT
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#38
Wow. Thats cheap. I'll keep my eyes peeled.

This damn pedal.... so inconsistent. I found a 2v DC spike leading up to a coupling cap before the switch. It would be nice if it made the noise the whole time...

Found the noise/voltage spike are coming out of the output of Op amp U2....

Voltage supply for U2 is just fine... spike on the input.....

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/174271/ONSEMI/MC33179DG.html
Quote by DeathByDestroyr
See, it's important that people clarify when they say "metal", because I pretty much always assume they are a Cannibal Corpse fanboi.
Last edited by R45VT at Nov 11, 2012,
Cathbard
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#40
And I bet that the chips aren't socketed either are they?
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band