#1
whats the difference between the two models? pros and cons? i'm teasing myself by looking at new guitars and realized that i really dont know the difference between the two bridges
#2
I won an ltd that had the special. It went out if tune a little with use. I built a guitar with a 1980's OFR and it never goes out of tune. Ever. I'd say the comparison stops there.

In all honesty I think the difference is that an OFR is all steel with the baseplate and knife edges being case hardened steel, and the special has its saddles and block made out of zinc.

Someone more well informed will prpbably be able to give you a better comparison.
#3
^ That's almost the complete story. On top of that the special isn't quite as responsive as the original, it doesn't flutter nearly so easily in my experience. Also the fixture for the arm is different and not as secure as the one found on the OFR. Oh and the sustain block on the OFR is brass as far as i know.
#4
They're exactly the same except on the Special the block is slightly smaller and both the block and saddles are made of zinc; the baseplate (and therefore the knife edges) are steel, just as they are on the OFR. The arm also has a very slightly different thread, though oddly enough a Special's arm fits an OFR better and an OFR's arm fits a Special better.

OFRs are made in Germany. Specials and 1000s are made in Korea, using the same casts as the German-made OFR. The saddle and block materials and size are the only differences worthy of note, and even then you'll never be able to tell the difference between them in any real-world playing situation.
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#5
^ same casts? how come they look different then?

anyway, schaller-made OFR will be better.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
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#6
Quote by Dave_Mc
^ same casts? how come they look different then?

anyway, schaller-made OFR will be better.


+1
I would also like to add that they do feel different in playing as well, as i said before the specials are just not as responsive at all. OFR all the way!
#7
http://www.vintagekramer.com/parts6.htm

"The Floyd Rose Special is an Authentic version of a licensed Floyd Rose tremolo system manufactured in Korea exclusively for Floyd Rose. The Floyd Rose Special maintains the construction parameters and features of an Original Floyd Rose, while utilizing zinc alloy saddles in place of steel and a zinc alloy sustain block in place of brass. The design specifications and high quality materials of the Special Series Floyd Rose bridge will hold up to the demands of today's performers."
Last edited by 667 at Mar 4, 2013,
#8
Quote by Dave_Mc
^ same casts? how come they look different then?

anyway, schaller-made OFR will be better.
I mean in terms of the parts they both share. Obviously the saddles are slightly different and the Special has 'Special' stamped on it, but I mean things like the fine tuners, for example, are identical, made using the same material in the same type of machines. Kramer have documented it pretty well.

ed: ah, beaten, sort of. Not the site I was thinking of, but it'll do.
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#9
i dunno, i mean i thought the fine tuners on the frt-x0000 i had for a little while felt pretty cheap. Not that the schaller ofr ones are amazing either (the gotoh ones feel way better than either), but i thought they felt a bit better.

I'm also not sure how accurate that kramer page is... for example, it says the floyd rose OEM has the zinc saddles and sustain block and (assuming they're talking about the frt-x000) it should have the brass block and steel (?) saddles, right?

there was a good link i found a while back which documented the differences between the frt-x000 and the schaller OFR (and the special, far as i'm aware though i haven't tried it, is pretty much an frt-x000 with the zinc saddles and sustain block) and I'd tend to agree with its opinion on the matter- the FRT-x000 will do the job (and i'd much rather have one than a cheapo licensed floyd), but you can see where corners have been cut and (this is IMO now) it doesn't feel quite as nice in use, either.

http://dellus.net/guitar-tech/original-floyd-rose-german-vs-korean/

Word of warning regarding that link- occasionally my antivirus pulls it up as being a dodgy link. It may just be my overzealous antivirus getting a false positive, but click it at your own risk, kind of thing.

EDIT: it's worth pointing out that there are photos in that link which show that the fine tuners are NOT exactly the same, as you claim, flibble. That would bear out my own experience of the two, too.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Mar 4, 2013,
#10
No comparison really.

FR special is ok for a cheap tremolo. But it's no OFR.

I replaced mine with a OFR
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#11
What can I say, I've got an FR Special, a new OFR and an old OFR all in this room with me right now and the fine tuners on all three are identical.

You sure you've not been looking at FR-2000s or some such?
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#12
All steel is not the same. The OFR uses a considerably harder grade than pretty much anything but Gotoh.
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#13
^Exactly. The harder knife edges causes almost all of the wear and tear to be on the posts instead of the bridge plate. Which means, when it's time to replace something it's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace posts than a bridge plate. Keep in mind, you shouldn't have to replace anything for 10+ years unless every note you play on the guitar involves the trem.


In terms of quality, they're both good. You'd have to be picky an uber hardcore virtuoso to be hindered by the Special over the OFR
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#14
Quote by mmolteratx
All steel is not the same. The OFR uses a considerably harder grade than pretty much anything but Gotoh.

The OFR, FR Special and the FR-X000 all use the same steel for the base-plates (hardened 50-55 Rockwell steel). Same goes for the knife edges, they're all the same dang thing.

MrFlibble has pretty much said it all. IMO the FR Special is a great trem.
Last edited by Way Cool JR. at Mar 5, 2013,
#15
Going completely by memory here, but I think the German made OFR is hardened to 65 Rockwell. 50-55 Rockwell is pretty low for steel.
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#16
55 Rockwell is pretty hard actually. I make front spindles for those GIANT dump trucks at work (the spindles weigh about a ton and a half finished) and they have to be 50-55 Rockwell. They're so hard that carbide will barely cut it and sand paper won't touch it. After I get them roughed out I have to finish them with a ceramic cutter for the finish, otherwise it's impossible to achieve a good finish (with the exception of grinding).
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[thread="1166208"]Gibsons Historic Designs[/thread]
#17
Quote by MrFlibble
What can I say, I've got an FR Special, a new OFR and an old OFR all in this room with me right now and the fine tuners on all three are identical.

You sure you've not been looking at FR-2000s or some such?


i dunno I was going by the one that my bc rich gunslinger had, which was specced as an OFR (but that was a bit before floyd rose came clean about the whole frt-x000 thing). they did feel and look different. That link i posted shows that they look different.

Quote by mmolteratx
Going completely by memory here, but I think the German made OFR is hardened to 65 Rockwell. 50-55 Rockwell is pretty low for steel.


i seem to remember looking into this a while back and finding out that the (schaller) ofr used slightly harder steel than gotoh. I never found any info on the frt-x000 though.

edit: yeah according to the gotoh catalogue i have the 510 series is hardened to 45C...
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#18
Quote by mmolteratx
Going completely by memory here, but I think the German made OFR is hardened to 65 Rockwell. 50-55 Rockwell is pretty low for steel.


55 Rockwell C scale is pretty damn hard...not extreme but not low at all.
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#19
Yea, but I though steel ranged from 55-66C? So for steel, it's bottom grade.
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#20
Quote by mmolteratx
Yea, but I though steel ranged from 55-66C? So for steel, it's bottom grade.


C scale ranges from 0-80, with mild steel like 1018 around 0 C scale (80 B Scale), medium carbon steel can range from 7-15 C, High carbon steel can get to 55-61 and alloys, exotics and ultrahigh carbon can go to 80.

Note these numbers are all subject to change depending on heat treatment etc.

Also, if it's too hard it's brittle and subject to cracking/flaking, not a good thing at all for a knife edge. The best steel for FR edges is as might be expected also the best steel for good quality knives, and the optimum hardness is somewhere in the 50-60 range.

I've toyed with the idea of building an FR with replaceable ceramic or carbide inserts, as some of the modern ceramics/carbides are harder than any reasonable steel we might use and have excellent fracture resistance as well, but I haven't done it yet due primarily to laziness and my thought that it would a very limited market.
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#21
Quote by Arby911
C scale ranges from 0-80, with mild steel like 1018 around 0 C scale (80 B Scale), medium carbon steel can range from 7-15 C, High carbon steel can get to 55-61 and alloys, exotics and ultrahigh carbon can go to 80.

Note these numbers are all subject to change depending on heat treatment etc.

Also, if it's too hard it's brittle and subject to cracking/flaking, not a good thing at all for a knife edge. The best steel for FR edges is as might be expected also the best steel for good quality knives, and the optimum hardness is somewhere in the 50-60 range.

I've toyed with the idea of building an FR with replaceable ceramic or carbide inserts, as some of the modern ceramics/carbides are harder than any reasonable steel we might use and have excellent fracture resistance as well, but I haven't done it yet due primarily to laziness and my thought that it would a very limited market.


I know its an old thread but which steel, presumably with a higher carbon content than 1018, is being used by Schaller to make the OFR before its hardened to 55+?