#1
My PRS SE Singlecut won't hold it's tuning for some reason. It has graph tech saddles and nut with stock tuners and the strings I use are Ernie balls 10-52s. The reason I changed the nut and saddles was to reduce string breakage which it does and also the old stock saddles and nut didnt fit the 52 gauge low E string. But now when I dive and pull up (like mark tremonti) the tuning goes out! What could be the problem and how can it be fixed?
Thanks
#2
The way you've set up your trem, the way your saddles are and the angle of your neck all affect on how well your guitar holds your tuning. I mean, you can't blame the Graphtechs for not holding tuning if your guitar is not set up properly.

There are plenty of good threads/guides here on UG to adjust everything right. If after that your guitar does not hold the tuning, well, I don't know, maybe the trem is bad.
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#3
If its a pre slotted nut theres a chance its cut for 9-46 strings which would cause the wound strings to bind when you use the trem.

What is actually happening to the tuning? Is it going sharp or flat, on some of the strings or them all?
#5
Quote by Sakke
The way you've set up your trem, the way your saddles are and the angle of your neck all affect on how well your guitar holds your tuning. I mean, you can't blame the Graphtechs for not holding tuning if your guitar is not set up properly.

There are plenty of good threads/guides here on UG to adjust everything right. If after that your guitar does not hold the tuning, well, I don't know, maybe the trem is bad.


I'm pretty sure it's set up right, I've set it up multiple times before and no matter what I do, it goes out. Neck is good, trem is level, intonation set etc.
#6
Quote by sic6505+
If its a pre slotted nut theres a chance its cut for 9-46 strings which would cause the wound strings to bind when you use the trem.

What is actually happening to the tuning? Is it going sharp or flat, on some of the strings or them all?

The low E and G generally go sharp. The nut was prs slotted but I've sanded it out to fit the strings nicely. Maybe ill make them bigger to give more room
#7
If they are going sharp the windings on the string are probably binding on the nut. You could try filing it slightly with something small or lubricating the nut. Try rubbing a pencil in the nut slots, the graphite should lubricate it. If its a tusq xl nut it should be self lubricating so probably needs widening slightly.

As with anything like this, go slow and keep testing
#8
Most of the time when someone comes to me with a guitar that won't stay in tune because of the nut/tuners/saddles/bridge posts/etc, it turns out it's actually simply just a case of the owner not restringing the guitar correctly. There's a sticky on the EG forum that explains how to properly wrap strings around non-locking tuners and with any type of tuner you should make sure you're stretching the strings sufficiently before putting them on the guitar.

You may also want to look into getting a different type of string. If you're having problems with both tuning stability and strings breaking then I would suggest Ernie Ball titanium-coated strings; I've yet to have one break and they hold tune better than any other string I've used. Well, that's what you get for using titanium.

As far as other things to check through, take a very close look at the screws that the bridge pivots on. It is quite possible that the bridge is moving up and down the length of the screws, rather than pivoting on them. There are various bridges you can get which will solve this (Wilkinson make a few and Wudtone make a good one) but the main fix is to either convert the guitar to a 2-post system or to raise the middle four screws and lower the outer two.

All of these things are reversible, while cutting the nut slots is not. Check these before you go taking a file to your nut.
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#9
Quote by MrFlibble
Most of the time when someone comes to me with a guitar that won't stay in tune because of the nut/tuners/saddles/bridge posts/etc, it turns out it's actually simply just a case of the owner not restringing the guitar correctly. There's a sticky on the EG forum that explains how to properly wrap strings around non-locking tuners and with any type of tuner you should make sure you're stretching the strings sufficiently before putting them on the guitar.

You may also want to look into getting a different type of string. If you're having problems with both tuning stability and strings breaking then I would suggest Ernie Ball titanium-coated strings; I've yet to have one break and they hold tune better than any other string I've used. Well, that's what you get for using titanium.

As far as other things to check through, take a very close look at the screws that the bridge pivots on. It is quite possible that the bridge is moving up and down the length of the screws, rather than pivoting on them. There are various bridges you can get which will solve this (Wilkinson make a few and Wudtone make a good one) but the main fix is to either convert the guitar to a 2-post system or to raise the middle four screws and lower the outer two.

All of these things are reversible, while cutting the nut slots is not. Check these before you go taking a file to your nut.

I'm going to try taking out the four middle pivot screws on the bridge and see how it goes then, any danger of doing that?
#10
Put locking tuners on it also.
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#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
Put locking tuners on it also.

The way I put the strings on the tuners is the same as what PRS say on their website.
http://www.prsguitars.com/csc/tuners.html
It's like tieing a knot with the string. Apparantly it does the same job as locking tuner. Unfortunately this method weakens the unwound strings, especially the high e
#12
It doesn't 'weaken' the string. Locking the string in against itself, like a knot, is actually the most stable method of restringing a guitar. The only reason to use locking tuners instead would be to save time.

And no, there's no danger with setting the screws on the bridge to different heights, so long as you keep the bridge properly balanced and aren't trying to do really crazy Floyd Rose-esque whammy antics with it. Just be aware that when raising or lowering those screws you only need to do it by half or one one full turn of the screw for it to make a difference.
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