Yup...lost power today on my vypyr 75 that I just got in Feb. 2013, worked flawlessly. Took the jack out turned off the amp...came back hour later turned it on ....nothing. Saw a post awhile back about a "panel fuse" installation. I unplugged power from the amp, took out the guts and checked continuity across the fuse...nothing. Jumped it with a wire with the power connected and it came on.

First, why does the manual show one in the back of the amp? why doesn't it have one? why did they make it part of the circuit board ? So you can take it to get repaired on your warranty. So a tech authorized to work on it can make money and you get inconvenienced.

Total investment for me to repair this permanently...27 dollars. If you have all the stuff like soldering irons, solder, wire, fuses (3 amp) and the panel mount fuse holder then this will cost you nothing....the panel mount fuse holder only cost me $ 2.19 and 4 fuses in a bag...the same, went to Radioshack and they had everything I needed.

This was so easy I had to share this....and its permanent and functional and when a fuse blows like using the Sanpera pedal or what ever. I just can't understand why this isn't this way to begin with...so simple. Why wouldn't Peavey have this for our convenience.

The pictures really speak for themselves only this I can add is the small post that are attached to the board and come up and turn in and attach to the fuse on both sides, strip 1/4 in. of wire and go between the post and the fuse and twist tight and trim off the excess. Do this for the other side with another piece of the same wire. So when your finished you will have one wire for each side. If you've never soldered before, word of caution. No more than a few seconds with the end of the iron on the wire your soldering. Touch the solder enough just to melt alittle at a time just a touch is all that needed. You get this too hot and your melt the solder on the board or the fuse. Also there's a larger component next to this fuse, gently push to the side to give you a little more room to work. Also worth mentioning is this is very thin "rosin core" solder designed for fine electrical components, not solder for like plumbing and such. Just figured I add that.
And the 2nd thing is when drilling the hole were you want it...position it so the drilling material doesn't fly every where. This is aluminum, I used a "step bit" or graduated bit to make my hole. I recommend using this style bit cause waste material doesn't fly all over like regular drill bit do...either way drill slowly but not as to have the bit grab. Protect the electronics with a rag. Route your 2 wires (I used 22 gauge stranded) through the strapping with the other wires if possible. You could use tape...I prefer straps or ties. Mount the fuse holder then solder the 2 wires ..one to each tab on the holder. I doesn't matter which goes where.

Before you put this back in the cabinet, check to see if it works. This took me only a half hour to do. And it looks like this is were it should be. Also one other thing..were I put mine you half to take the fuse cap and fuse out first to put the screw in for mounting the unit back in the cabinet. Other than that your done, it works and you know next time a fuse blows its only seconds to get back to playing.
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Last edited by Lodi-51 at Mar 24, 2013,
A rag is a good measure but you should also hit it with an air compressor after you're finished to make sure no filings have slipped past it.
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