#1
I know the speaker baffle board thing (material, thickness, mounting techniques and so on) has been beaten to death, not just on this forum but just about every other similar one as well, and while there maybe be an answer to a thought I've had for some time I've yet to find it.

I've been considerering a 5F1 vintage circuitry style tweed Champ build ultilizing a Mather, Weber or other quality 1X8 type pine cab, nearly all of which come with what is generally considered the best baffle...Baltic birch ply. That's fine...great in fact and I'll likely end up using it but my question is more of a hmm...what would happen if...? kind of thing. Someone, somewhere no doubt has tried this but I've been unable find any thoughts or results of the outcome. This 'twist' on the traditional baffle board would involve using a thinner (1/4" or 3/8") piece of traditional type tonewood such as mahogany, cocobolo maybe or possibly even blackwood as the basis, inletting it slightly for the speaker frame to allow for a flush fit and as much resonance transfer as possible and then isolating the mount locations with 1/4" polyurathane spacers. My thinking here is that, in theory, the tonewood should enhance and expand the tonal quality of the Jensen P8 Alnico. Isolating the board should, again in theory, allow for increased interior tonal resonance response (the open back should serve as additional enhancemnt in this regard as well) rather than requiring the tone to simply vibrate through the exterior structure of the cab.

So, there it is. Maybe I'm totally screwed up here (in theory of course) but I figured some of you more expirienced amp builders could give me a bit more insight and perhaps a little advise in this regard. Thanks for your ideas.
Last edited by HotDan! at Mar 25, 2013,
#2
That is interesting, but 1/4-3/8" will be very thin and possibly create unwanted resonance in the cab. You want a baffle that returns to its original shape as fast as possible (ply helps alot with this) I would think.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#3
Thanks Robbgnarly and that's a good point. Resonance is what I'm after here, or at least resonance transfer. It's vibration that I would want to eliminate. The reason I listed the wood considerations is for their inherent qualities, two of which (aside from the fact that each has the ability to transfer tonal resonance very efficiently, hence their classifications as 'tonewoods') are their individual density and specific gravity weights. Blackwood and cocobolo each boast a specific gravity weight greater than 1.0 to 1 which means that, with water having a specific gravity weight of 1, neither blackwood nor cocobolo will float. Mahogany has a specific gravity weight of around .85 to 1 which means that if a cube of mahogany were to be placed in water, 85% of that cube would be submerged. What all this means is that each of these species of wood are also extremely resistant to mechanical vibration or at least vibrational oscillations at a frequency level that is audible to the human ear. That's why I'm thinking 1/4" for the more dense woods and perhaps 3/8" for the Mahogany but I don't really know for sure. I'm purely basing this idea on theory. The physics involved are steadfast. The environment in which they are employed and must function can turn out extremely pleasing or...

Input from any of you guys is surely welcomed and appreciated. Maybe some of you pro amp builders or manufacturers out there have additional thoughts as well? Thanks again.
Last edited by HotDan! at Mar 25, 2013,
#4
Most baffles are 3/4" ply. I would think the rest of the cab would better benefit having tone woods, but I am deff no expert on these matters. Ther was a guy that posted a complete hardwood build for a cab that was really nice looking and interesting, Let me try and find it.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#5
Look at the second page of this forum. The thread tittled solid 4x12 Queensland Maple, the build is really cool and unique might give you and idea or 2
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#6
Could be apples and orages here as this is a 4X12 and I'm talking a 1X8 environment but I'd like to see it particularly since it sports a cab of tonewood class material. Address?
Last edited by HotDan! at Mar 25, 2013,
#8
Oh! THIS forum. Yeah. Very cool build but totally different animal here. If I posessed the tools and skills exhibited by this chap, I certainly wouldn't need to purchase an after market cab!
Last edited by HotDan! at Mar 25, 2013,
#9
Yeah I just thought you would apreciate the build and it may give you an idea since you were talking about doing a soild wood baffle
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#10
Thanks again and I do appreciate the build but what he is using as a 'baffle board' might just as well be a support stanchion for the Eiffel Tower. What he's doing here is isolating his speakers individually in a completely enclosed internally ported cab and relying on moving a large amount of air to move the sound through the grille...very, very effective indeed with a large enclosure but a whole different set of dynamics.

Understand that the tweed series of Fender amps, had and continue to have, a very distinct tonal quality...all of them. Now, while I'm not trying to make a Champ sound or work on stage like a Twin or a Bassman, I thoroughly believe that with the right 'tweaks' to an already proven design that it can be made to perform at a higher level. Applied mechanical and sound dynamic physics suggests that the idea has merit. We want to make a 8" speaker think it has a larger projecting surface area than it truly has by expanding its tonal horizons via the tonewood board and somewhat diversified, at least from normal, mounting innovation. So...in affect, what we have done, if theory proves correct, is to create the dynamic illusion of a much larger amp (by output W) than it really is, yet retaining the inherent warm robust vintage tones that made Fender tweeds the timeless favorites of recording artists of all genres that they are.
Last edited by HotDan! at Mar 26, 2013,
#11
Resonance occurs at a particular frequency - you don't want resonance. Resonance breaks shit. I'm actually a fan of MDF baffle boards for that reason.
Gilchrist custom
Yamaha SBG500
Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band