#1
Alrighty, hope this is the write place to post this BUT, on with my problem. Ok, last year before Christmas, I completed my Warmoth Strat Build. And I got the option of non-recessed angle pocket Floyd Rose. So It's be working perfectly ever since then, setup nice, perfect action. I like my Floyd tucked right against the body, no pull up at all. But the only way I can have all this is if my bridge posts are high, an the bridge sits against the body on a backwards tilt. Can anyone help with this? I want the entire bridge plate against the body, but if I do that, the strings would pretty much be touching the frets.
#2
Would adjusting the pivot screws work?
HILT!

Where's Waldo?

#4


This is what I mean. The pivot screws are as low as they can go before the strings start hitting the frets. I just want the bridge plate entirely flush to the body resting directly on it without the strings on the fretboard. :/ As I mentioned early, I have an angled next pocket.
#5
I think you have too much spring tension
HILT!

Where's Waldo?

#6
I play it with 2 springs, claw right to the wall of the cavity. I don't want it to move at all when bending or when a string breaks. And I know that is not impossible because it's been done by EVH and others who prefer flush mount Floyds.
#7
yeah you want it to be parallel to the top of the guitar, as OliOsbourne says. loosen the spring tension, then lower the pivot posts- you won't need as much tension when the trem is parallel.

if that doesn't work... neck shim?
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#8
That's what I tried when I got it, ridiculous buzz and some frets didn't even register sound. So I slowly raised it until it got to this point, then I shimmed the nut, and now the action is perfect, but I'd think if I got it flat on the body, it was resonate a lot better.
#9
You'll need a neck shim it seems
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#10
if that's where the posts have to sit in order to not have string buz, and you say it has prefect action, then what you need to do is actually put another spring on in order for the bridge to not move when doing bends, Since the back of the floyd actually sits on the body you can't possibly have too much tension as everyone is saying. You can only have not enough, resulting in the bridge moving when you do bends and the such.


as far as getting the bridge to sit entirely flush, sorry mate, I have no clue.
#11
That's what I thought. And it really makes me wonder wtf the point of the angled pocket is.
#12
Quote by guitarhero923
That's what I tried when I got it, ridiculous buzz and some frets didn't even register sound. So I slowly raised it until it got to this point, then I shimmed the nut, and now the action is perfect, but I'd think if I got it flat on the body, it was resonate a lot better.



1. Check your neck angle. If you're not sure how, there are many threads on this.
2. Unlock the locking nut
3. Loosen your strings and adjust the neck if needed. While doing this, loosen the springs in the back.
4. Adjust your bridge to the desired action by the two bridge posts. I usually went with a bit lower higher strings side. See if your bridge saddles are in correct order and aligned well, you can see those "standards" from many threads. The way I went with Floyd rose was high E aligned to the bridge plate, B 1-2mm behind E and G 1-2mm behind B. Then D aligned to bridge plate and so forth.. See if that helps.
5. Tune your guitar to the tuning desired and then check the neck angle. While doing this, have a close look how your bridge reacts. You don't want it to be in any other angle than flat to the body, as recommended in other posts and that's what I did.

With that guide, I got my Ibanez RG505 always to tune and not much worrying about going out of tune, even with crazy dives. Glad that I don't have one anymore, no need.

But if the problem is in your neck pocket, then I HAVE NO IDEA. Sorry, didn't have that problem at all with my RG.
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#13
Quote by OliOsbourne
I think you have too much spring tension

Okay. I finally found Waldo. You. Tricky. Bastard.
#14
Quote by guitarhero923
That's what I tried when I got it, ridiculous buzz and some frets didn't even register sound. So I slowly raised it until it got to this point, then I shimmed the nut, and now the action is perfect, but I'd think if I got it flat on the body, it was resonate a lot better.


yeah it sounds like you need a neck shim, then. I think, don't quote me on that.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#15
Is the trem route too deep? The trem base plate needs to be level, if the front of it has to be that high so you don't get fret buzz I'd say you need to move the entire bridge UP.

Wouldn't a neck shim just move the neck up making his issue worse?
#16
Your guitar has to much of a neck angle for the bridge to set all the way flat on the body. Shimming it will only make it worse. The only thing you can really do is set the bridge up for it to be level (floating) then block it for dive only. I would get a Tremol-No, that way you can set it to only dive like you want it. Then if you ever want it to float just unlock it. Otherwise you will have to modify your guitar for your neck sits flat in the neck pocket instead of angled like it is now.
#17
^ that's what i was wondering.

couldn't you do a reverse-shim, though? if you put the shim towards the top of the neck pocket (i.e. the end furthest away from the body) that would lower the pitch again.

right?

blocking the trem would probably be easier, though.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#18
So you need to lower the floyd rose's posts to get it flat and still dive only, but your action is then too low to be playable. That's what it sounds like the problem is.

Check your neck angle, if it is at an angle, like a set-neck Gibson would be, you need to make it flat, like a strat. If it is flat, you need to shave some of the bottom of the neck join off, to allow the neck to bolt in lower in the body.

That's what I'd do.

Post some pictures of the neck at the join, at different angles, so we can get a good look at that.
Last edited by Lavatain at Apr 15, 2013,
#19
Well I dont fully understand the problem but I think it is stemming from your floyd not being setup properly, in the picture you posted the trem is WAY too low, it should sit parallel with the body of the guitar. String tension must equal Spring tension. I would probably suggest taking it in to a shop and paying them to do a proper full setup with the intonation and the action just the way you want it, cause from what I can see it would probably take an hour or two to get that set back up properly depending on how confident you are with your work and your knowledge of Floyds.
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#20
Quote by Dave_Mc
^ that's what i was wondering.

couldn't you do a reverse-shim, though? if you put the shim towards the top of the neck pocket (i.e. the end furthest away from the body) that would lower the pitch again.

right?

blocking the trem would probably be easier, though.

That could possibly work doing a reverse shim. It would all depend how deep the neck pocket is on the top of the angle (closest to the body). The whole thing (neck) might need to be recessed into the body more. It's to hard for me to tell not having it in my own 2 hands. But a reverse shim would be a great and cheap thing to try first. Could end up solving his problem and saving a lot of money.
#21
^

and yeah not having the guitar in our hands makes it very tricky to diagnose exactly what's wrong
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#22
From the pics, I see some of the saddles all the way back at the long end of the adjustment.

If you tilt the tremolo to level, you may not have enough string length to get proper intonation depending on your tuning.

I've always liked them tilted back a little because it get's the tuners out of the way more than if it were level......but not enough such that you get into binding against the posts which causes accelerated wear.

A super thin shim to tilt the neck toward the trem might work but it could shorten the string length more than you have adjustment.
#23
The posts should really have at least a full turn up from the body, the plate should be level. A shim then a truss rod adj should make it fine unless it's way too low.
They should not tilt back, so level it and get used to it IMO
Last edited by Tempoe at Apr 17, 2013,