#1
Okay, this being my first guitar equipped with tremolo I'm having some issues and have some questions. I'll try and be concise as possible.

Guitar is a Fender Jaguar Classic Player HH
Bought new.
There was a little bridge rattle at first on a couple of saddles, which I remedied with some loctite threadlock.
I've used a pencil to put graphite into the nut slots, and the part where the bridge saddles connect.

Some questions:

1 - Is it normal for my guitar to go about 10 cents out of tune when using the tremolo arm, and then using it again brings it back to tune?
2 - How much variation in tuning should I expect after, say, an hour of playing? At the moment I'm going about 20 cents flat (dependent on whether i waggle the arm to bring it back into tune a bit)
3 - Short of the bridge and nut, is there any other factor that could be causing the tuning instability?

I'm using the guitar for glide/tremolo guitar and so am looking to attain as much tuning stability as possible. Thanks in advance.
yep
#2
1) I don't understand this question - so using the tremolo changes the pitch? That's what it's meant to do. I have the single coil version so I'm trying to see how that works unless you're pushing down and then pulling up on the bar (or vice-versa).
2) This depends on too many personal factors for anyone to answer (how hard you strum, bends, string vibrato, etc.)
3) Sure, your tuners could factor into this, as could how you actually string the guitar.

Get locking tuners, that may help with stability.
OffsetOffset
#3
In regards to the first question, after the use of the trem (aka when I'm finished using it) it goes slightly out of tune. This is without my hand on the tremolo bar at all, and after the completed motion. I can then "waggle" the trem bar a couple of times and the tuning seems to normalize.

I guess my real question is, is this a reasonable amount of tuning instability to expect from this tremolo system
yep
Last edited by kaneorsomething at Apr 28, 2013,
#4
Ah, well, you may consider swapping out the nut. I know you put graphite in there, but that sounds like the strings are catching when they settle. Graphtech should be a cheap and simple replacement, you may have to do the saddles as well.
OffsetOffset
#5
I thought it might be something like that. Not best pleased really as I've just spent £750 on a guitar and have to replace parts already.
yep
#6
Yeah, the CP line is nice, but there are definitely easy and cheap improvements Fender could have made to the design (since they were already tweaking).

I'm on my second CP now, the first one having had to go back due to QC issues. I have to take this one to a tech to get the trem fixed, and I'm having him set it up while I'm there (should be free since he's going to take it apart). They're great guitars, but as is typical for Fender offsets, they come with a fair deal of need for work.
OffsetOffset
#7
I suppose it's better something like a nut replacement than the amount of work you would have to do on an MIJ reissue. I wasn't immensely pleased with the fact I had to stabilize the bridge saddles, either.

Would it be a safe bet to just buy a pre-cut nut?
yep
#8
The MIJ require about as much work, but pickup replacement make them a little more expensive to get sounding good than the CP. I'm surprised that you had to mess with the saddles, then again, that rattle doesn't so much bother me since it's not coming through the amp.

Check out the Tusq Fender nut, it should be an easy fit (hopefully).

Edit: also, depending on where you live, and how Fender deals with overseas warranty work, you might get them to sort it out for you.
I called them when my locking trem function crapped out, and when I noticed a tuner that seems loose at about 1/8th turns, and they're fixing it all up for me by a licensed tech.
OffsetOffset
Last edited by SteveHOC at Apr 28, 2013,
#9
Sounds like you could use some Nut Sauce - http://www.bigbends.com/ It's not unusual to have tuning stability issues with a non locking trem. You can fix the issues with Graphtec TuSQ slippery nuts, some people like graphite saddles too and a little bit of nut sauce can go a long way.

Short of that you should check if the strings arent moving out of tune when they lose and regain tension at the tuning pegs, a common problem with a number of fixes.
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Last edited by Bigbazz at Apr 28, 2013,
#10
Quote by Bigbazz
Sounds like you could use some Nut Sauce -
Short of that you should check if the strings arent moving out of tune when they lose and regain tension at the tuning pegs, a common problem with a number of fixes.


How would I check for this, and what would be a solution should it be the issue?
yep
#11
Quote by kaneorsomething
How would I check for this, and what would be a solution should it be the issue?


With the Fender classic tuners, this shouldn't be an issue unless you're clipping your strings way too close when you restring. I use about two tuners' length of string to wrap the peg.

Nut sauce may work, but I'd still be looking at the Tusq - seriously, the stock nut is junk.
OffsetOffset
#12
Quote by SteveHOC
With the Fender classic tuners, this shouldn't be an issue unless you're clipping your strings way too close when you restring. I use about two tuners' length of string to wrap the peg.

Nut sauce may work, but I'd still be looking at the Tusq - seriously, the stock nut is junk.


Yeah, I use that method of stringing also. I'm looking at a fender strat style nut from graphtech at the moment, but the nut length is 1 11/16", whereas the CP jag hasa nut "width" of 1.650”. Is this going to fit?

11/16ths of an inch is 17.46
.650 of an inch is 16.51

is 1mm an issue in nut terms?
yep
Last edited by kaneorsomething at Apr 28, 2013,
#13
I don't think it's a huge issue. I think it would be more of an aesthetic thing than anything, you might not like the look of it if it's not completely flush with the neck.
EH


"Show me war; show me pestilence; show me the blood-red hands of retribution..."
#14
Quote by kaneorsomething
Yeah, I use that method of stringing also. I'm looking at a fender strat style nut from graphtech at the moment, but the nut length is 1 11/16", whereas the CP jag hasa nut "width" of 1.650”. Is this going to fit?

11/16ths of an inch is 17.46
.650 of an inch is 16.51

is 1mm an issue in nut terms?


It may not be a direct fit, but the Tusq is easy enough to sand and drop in. It's just trial and error when it comes to sanding those down bit by bit.
OffsetOffset
#15
Quote by SteveHOC
It may not be a direct fit, but the Tusq is easy enough to sand and drop in. It's just trial and error when it comes to sanding those down bit by bit.


Okay, that's fine with me. As long as the string spacing suits it (which I believe it should?), I guess I could always put the other nut back in if it doesn't work out. Thanks for all your replies man, will order the nut right now.

I am half tempted to get the tusq saddles, too, though I've no idea which set would fit.
yep
#16
I'd try the nut first to see how that suits you, at least to save a little cash.
No problem at all, I love both of my Jags and hope you enjoy yours!
OffsetOffset
#18
Just as an update, my TUSQ nut came today. I did notice however, that in my ignorance I ordered a TUSQ nut, and not a TUSQ XL (meaning no PTFE impregnation). Is there even any point replacing my synthetic bone nut with this + will TUSQ offer a notable tuning improvement? I suppose I could order the XL?
yep