#1
I've recently changed the string gauge of my Tyler from 010 to 009.
I've made the necessary adjustments to keep it buzz free and intonated.

The thing is, now the tremolo sits as shown:



When it was in 010 setting, it was a little bit floating. Now, since the string tension is lower, the spring tension wins out and pulls the butt end of the bridge towards the body.

I don't really care for the tremolo arm; I've never used it in the previous setting, and I probably rarely will. One thing I'll probably never do is pulling the arm up.

So in that case, I really have no problem with the bridge like that: can use the arm to drop down, but can't pull it up.
My concern is that keeping the tremolo NOT parallel to the body like that may cause certain problems for the body or the bridge??
I've asked a couple of people around, and they tell me that it's not gonna cause any harm whatsoever, and that some people even set it up like that on purpose.

So now I'm here to ask for more experienced opinions. Is it okay to leave the bridge like that, or should I lower the stud-end of the bridge to make it sit completely flat on the body?

the latter would probably limit my ability to use the whammy at all, but that wouldn't bother me TOO much... I'll set it up like this if my current setting(being NOT parallel) is somehow harmful to the guitar.

Any opinion (especially experience based ones) would be greatly appreciated.


as a bonus, here's the picture of the baby when I first got it, for those of who like Tylers.
Guitars:
* Custom "does-it-all" Strat
*'12 James Tyler Studio Elite HD Burning Water (HSH)
* EVH Wolfgang Special Stealth HT
#2
It's probably gonna be fine, and yeah people do set things up like that deliberately sometimes so I can't see it causing issue. If it worries you though just loosen the springs a little, it's not exactly a big job.
#3
Just adjust the springs. Any time the bridge is moved it may cause intonation issues. You may as well set the trem up properly. I just did a string change on 2 guitars with Floyd last night, both needed slight spring adjustments, it took an extra 30 seconds and a tuning or two to get it right.
#4
I use 5 springs screwed fully down in all my strats, they all sit like that. It's just sort of blocked now.
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#5
That's the most common way to have the bridge. Though Fender, G&L and a few other companies do suggest you set the bridge up to 'float', a lot of people don't even realise that's an option with Strat-style vibratos. Decking or blocking them is so common, it's unusual to see anything else.

It will cause no harm to anything. If you don't pull up on the bridge anyway then it is better to deck the bridge. That way you can do double stops without going out of tune, your tuning stability as a whole is significantly improved and you also get more body to your tone and more sustain.
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#6
That's the way I prefer to setup. Usually I tighten the post screws all the way down and use each saddle to adjust the action height at bridge. That way the bridge is perfectly flushed against the body. There is no way the bridge will leave even the tiniest mark on the body even if lot of spring tension from the back.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


Last edited by hminh87 at May 7, 2013,
#7
Quote by MrFlibble
That's the most common way to have the bridge. Though Fender, G&L and a few other companies do suggest you set the bridge up to 'float', a lot of people don't even realise that's an option with Strat-style vibratos. Decking or blocking them is so common, it's unusual to see anything else.

It will cause no harm to anything. If you don't pull up on the bridge anyway then it is better to deck the bridge. That way you can do double stops without going out of tune, your tuning stability as a whole is significantly improved and you also get more body to your tone and more sustain.


thanks for the detailed reply, though I am still a bit confused.

as far as I can see, my bridge isn't completely flush with the body (the stud post screws are raised a bit, while the butt-end of the bridge IS flush)
are you saying that my current set up is the most common way?
or are you saying that having the bridge completely flush is the most common way(in which case, I'll have to lower the posts)?

The reason why I don't just go ahead and tighten the posts right now is because then, I'll have to go through removing the springs and string tension to do it.

I've tried lowering the post studs WITHOUT removing all the tension in another guitar, and the knife edge of the bridge plate ended up like scratching (more like sawing) the studs..
Guitars:
* Custom "does-it-all" Strat
*'12 James Tyler Studio Elite HD Burning Water (HSH)
* EVH Wolfgang Special Stealth HT
#8
Yes. Turning the bridge posts with full tension will grind the knife edge down. Never a good idea. You should loosen the strings until they do not pull anymore and then couple off the springs on the back. Remember to put something soft under the back-end of the bridge to avoid making any dent mark. Then you can adjust the bridge posts as you will. Make sure that your saddles have enough headroom to raise for the action, though.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


#9
Quote by hminh87
Yes. Turning the bridge posts with full tension will grind the knife edge down. Never a good idea. You should loosen the strings until they do not pull anymore and then couple off the springs on the back. Remember to put something soft under the back-end of the bridge to avoid making any dent mark. Then you can adjust the bridge posts as you will. Make sure that your saddles have enough headroom to raise for the action, though.

+1
#10
Why do people buy guitars with trems and then look for ways to set them up to not work and act like a hardtail?
#11
Quote by J_W
Why do people buy guitars with trems and then look for ways to set them up to not work and act like a hardtail?


They're two very different things, duh ...
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


#12
^ well exactly, they're two very different things so why buy a guitar with a trem and then block it off and not use it. It seems a little pointless, especially when some models have a cheaper variation that has no trem. I think J_W has a valid point personally.
#13
Quote by hminh87
They're two very different things, duh ...


They certainly are, but why not just buy a guitar without a trem in the first place?
#14
Quote by J_W
They certainly are, but why not just buy a guitar without a trem in the first place?


That would be a little stupid, yeah. But the OP didn't want to block it off completely. He still can do tremolo dive after this setup. Fixed bridge can't do that.
G͔͓̅e͎͉̟̽ͬ͐̎̃͐ͨͅå͈͖͕̹̤̟̐̏͋ͅr̩͕̫̰̗s̹̳̼ͥ̒̍̄̅ͥ̚:


ESP Standard Eclipse I CTM VW
ESP LTD Deluxe H-1001
ESP LTD Deluxe Viper-1000 STBC
ESP Edwards E-EX-100STD
Warmoth Paulcaster "Tiger"
Tanglewood TW170 AS
Vox Tonelab ST
Blackstar HT-1R


#15
As long as you aren't having issues with the trem rubbing the body or anything like that it should be fine. Proper setup of a trem's height is mostly to get the proper use out of it but as you stated you really have no use for it that wont matter.
2011 Gibson Honeyburst LP Trad. w/ SD Whole Lotta Humbuckers
2014 Gibson Ocean Water Standard Plus
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Hughes & Kettner Tubemeister 5
#16
Quote by hminh87
That would be a little stupid, yeah. But the OP didn't want to block it off completely. He still can do tremolo dive after this setup. Fixed bridge can't do that.


It wasn't really directed at the OP, more of a general observation. There were replies talking about using 5 springs and basically making it so the trem doesn't move at all.
#17
Because people can't find a similar guitar with a fixed bridge? Some people like the tone of a blocked-off vibrato, too. Eric Clapton, for example, still uses blocked-off vibratos rather than hardtail units, because that's the sound he likes, even though he of all people could easily afford to have Strats with fixed bridges made.

Hell, it's why the Strats of the CBS era fell on their arse, for a while they released them with different top jacks and fixed bridges and nobody bought 'em because they no longer sounded like Strats.
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#19
Quote by J_W
They certainly are, but why not just buy a guitar without a trem in the first place?



In my case, Suhr dont do a hard tail modern in the pro series

1977 Burny FLG70
2004 EBMM JP6
2016 SE Holcolmb
#20
Quote by J_W
Why do people buy guitars with trems and then look for ways to set them up to not work and act like a hardtail?


Good point. I've been observing all the James Tyler dealers in Korea for 3 years, and we NEVER got any hardtail models.

And then this Burning Water with HSH pickups and matching headstock got here, and I had to grab it because that's my dream spec (minus hardtail).
They'll never bring in a hardtail model with this spec, and charge a ridiculous premium if I want to order a custom through them.
So, here I am. And I do use the trem a little bit from time to time, if I have it.
Guitars:
* Custom "does-it-all" Strat
*'12 James Tyler Studio Elite HD Burning Water (HSH)
* EVH Wolfgang Special Stealth HT
#21
You can tighten up the screws on the front of bridge and that's should bring I down
#22
Quote by SquierLolz
I use 5 springs screwed fully down in all my strats, they all sit like that. It's just sort of blocked now.


+1 same as as on my strat. five screwed all the way down. stays in tune for weeks.
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