Caaarrl94
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2012
240 IQ
#1
Okay so I got my first decent guitar late last year, and changed the st rings for the first time earlier today to some D'addario 10-46, the problem is, i had so much fretbuzz it was unbearable, then I realised fenders are sold with 9's.

So I was thinking, thicker strings + guitar not set up for them = fretbuzz

So I went straight back out, and bought some 9-42's since thats what i'm used to, any it appears thats what my guitar is set up for

So I restrung the guitar with the 9's, tuned up, stretched/worn the strings in abit, and it's still buzzing slightly more than it was with the standard set of 9's.

It buzzes around the first few frets on most strings, however the buzz continues right upto the 8/9th fret on the E and A strings


Why could this be?

What should I do?
"I think the most important thing about music is the sense of escape." - Thom Yorke
JackovSlayer
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Join date: Apr 2013
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#2
If this is the first time you changed strings on an electric guitar, maybe it seems to you there is fretbuzz because you're not familiar with the sound of new strings. They have to sound brighter than the old ones which probabaly sounded dull.
Caaarrl94
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2012
240 IQ
#3
They do sound alot brighter, but i'm almost sure theres alot more buzz too
"I think the most important thing about music is the sense of escape." - Thom Yorke
JackovSlayer
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Join date: Apr 2013
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#4
Play the guitar for a few days and see if it's going to sound better. I know I had the same problem after restringing my guitar for the first time. Luckily, my older brother was there to tell me everything was alright.
fly135
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#5
You can raise the saddles on the bridge but that won't help much on frets near the nut. If I have buzz on the frets closer to the nut I will give the neck some relief by loosening the truss rod. If you already have a lot of relief then about the only thing left is raising the slots in the nut or replacing the nut. The other possibility is that the frets need leveling.

Ive never tried it but I've heard you can mix baby power and super glue as a nut slot filler and then file it down with a nut file to the desired height.
Caaarrl94
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2012
240 IQ
#6
Thanks for the reply fly135, Does that mean I have to take the strings off the guitar again and put a new set on?
How exactly does the truss rod work? Would turning it clockwise tighten it? and would that raise the action or lower it?
"I think the most important thing about music is the sense of escape." - Thom Yorke
Robbgnarly
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#7
Quote by Caaarrl94
Thanks for the reply fly135, Does that mean I have to take the strings off the guitar again and put a new set on?
How exactly does the truss rod work? Would turning it clockwise tighten it? and would that raise the action or lower it?

There are lots of videos showing how to do these things on youtube.
You might want to take it to a tech if you are unsure of what to do.
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ibanez_guru
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#8
never make large adjustments with the truss rod. Do a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn at a time and check the neck. You dont want to damage the neck beyond repair
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fly135
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#9
Quote by Caaarrl94
Thanks for the reply fly135, Does that mean I have to take the strings off the guitar again and put a new set on?
How exactly does the truss rod work? Would turning it clockwise tighten it? and would that raise the action or lower it?
Turning it clockwise will tighten the neck and add relief. You do not need to take off the strings. Adding relief will raise the string height. You can lower the saddles to bring it down.
Shadowofravenwo
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Join date: Feb 2012
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#10
Wouldn't raising the action first be more prudent? He shouldn't have to make that kind of adjustment with different brands of strings or even going up a gauge.
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667
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#11
The truss rod purpose isn't to adjust the string height - it's to counter the string pull.

If you are buzzing because of height, adjust the bridge/saddle and/or if you have a high fret, take it in and get your frets dressed.
darkwolf291
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#12
Quote by 667
The truss rod purpose isn't to adjust the string height - it's to counter the string pull.

If you are buzzing because of height, adjust the bridge/saddle and/or if you have a high fret, take it in and get your frets dressed.

No, but too much relief can cause fretbuzz, because the neck bends too much and the string runs against the frets.

Usually around the 7-12thfrets
Shadowofravenwo
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#13
Quote by 667
The truss rod purpose isn't to adjust the string height - it's to counter the string pull.

If you are buzzing because of height, adjust the bridge/saddle and/or if you have a high fret, take it in and get your frets dressed.


Exactly which is why i am questioning why the truss rod is mentioned gfirst.
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Caaarrl94
Registered User
Join date: Sep 2012
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#14
I've been playing all today, pretty hard aswell and i've still got quite alot of buzz.

So what should I do first guys?

ps. Id really prefer not to have to take the strings back off
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Reincaster
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#15
Quote by fly135
You can raise the saddles on the bridge but that won't help much on frets near the nut. If I have buzz on the frets closer to the nut I will give the neck some relief by loosening the truss rod. If you already have a lot of relief then about the only thing left is raising the slots in the nut or replacing the nut. The other possibility is that the frets need leveling.

Ive never tried it but I've heard you can mix baby power and super glue as a nut slot filler and then file it down with a nut file to the desired height.


Baking powder, not baby powder. Baking powder is an accelerant for the glue, very cool reaction indeed. I mix pigments to make color matched fillers.

I always adjust the saddles first, if the relief is within spec, using a feeler gauge. Check your relief first, before you mess with the truss rod.
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Last edited by Reincaster at May 23, 2013,
Shadowofravenwo
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#16
Quote by Caaarrl94
I've been playing all today, pretty hard aswell and i've still got quite alot of buzz.

So what should I do first guys?

ps. Id really prefer not to have to take the strings back off


Have you tried raising the action?
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fly135
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#17
Quote by Reincaster
Baking powder, not baby powder. Baking powder is an accelerant for the glue, very cool reaction indeed. I mix pigments to make color matched fillers.
Reincaster, Thanks for that. It was from memory, and now that you wrote that I remember it was baking powder. Or was it baking soda? LOL.

edit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjLptQxvQl8
Last edited by fly135 at May 24, 2013,
fly135
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#18
Quote by 667
The truss rod purpose isn't to adjust the string height - it's to counter the string pull.

If you are buzzing because of height, adjust the bridge/saddle and/or if you have a high fret, take it in and get your frets dressed.
Truss rod adjustments affect the string height. Technically you are correct that the truss rod is not to adjust string height. However incorrect relief (as well as unlevel frets) will affect how low you can get the string height without buzz. And that is what this thread is about.
667
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#19
Quote by Caaarrl94
I've been playing all today, pretty hard aswell and i've still got quite alot of buzz.

So what should I do first guys?

ps. Id really prefer not to have to take the strings back off


If the buzz is only on the E and A, and up to the 8th fret, and your action is good everywhere else...

The nut could off (not cut or seated correctly)
The neck could be twisted
Your frets could be high
Your truss need tweeking.

Get this book and learn how to setup your guitar....
http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/0679742751

Never trust factory or retail big box shop setups. I would take it to a shop with a good tech and have it professionally set up. Have them install a new graphite/Teflon nut and saddles. The setup should cost $50 - $75 and the nut and saddles prolly another $40. This will take care of all your setup problems including intonation.

Check for a twisted neck by resting the body on your foot and look down the fretboard - angling it so the frets seem really close together. All frets should be parallel. If you see some bunched up on a side somewhere, there is a twist. Flip it and check the other way.

High frets are dealt with by pros as it involves filing.

Google setting the truss. If you are confident the height is set correctly and you absolutely must make a truss adjustment, be aware of the specific string clearances along the fretboard that is needed to correctly set it. These clearances are observed by fretting specific locations along the fretboard. Never turn the truss rod more than 1/4 turn at a time (1/8 really) AND NEVER A FULL 360! If you end up doing a 360, you will most likely destroy the neck.
BobDetroit
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#20
Quote by fly135
Turning it clockwise will tighten the neck and add relief. You do not need to take off the strings. Adding relief will raise the string height. You can lower the saddles to bring it down.
You have that wrong.. Turning the truss rod clockwise will indeed tightening the truss rod which results in a flatter neck so it removes relief..
fly135
Cheap Gear Enthusiast
Join date: Jul 2007
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#21
Quote by BobDetroit
You have that wrong.. Turning the truss rod clockwise will indeed tightening the truss rod which results in a flatter neck so it removes relief..
You are right Bob. I got it exactly opposite. I had a real brain fart on that one.
Last edited by fly135 at May 25, 2013,
MaggaraMarine
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Join date: Oct 2009
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#22
To know if you should adjust the truss rod, push down your first and last fret of your low E string and check if there's some space between the 12th fret and the string. If there's no space, you need to adjust your truss rod. But if there is some space, the problem might be something else. But I don't think it's your action because if your action was too low, you would also get fret buzz on the higher frets. You could of course see if raising the action a bit solves the problem. But I had to raise the action an my Charvel a lot before the fret buzz went away. And my guitar needed truss rod adjustment. Now I can have my action low and there's little to no buzz.
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667
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#23
Quote by fly135
Truss rod adjustments affect the string height. Technically you are correct that the truss rod is not to adjust string height. However incorrect relief (as well as unlevel frets) will affect how low you can get the string height without buzz. And that is what this thread is about.


Agreed. but should be considered after addressing all that other stuff w/ the bridge.
MaggaraMarine
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#24
Quote by 667
Agreed. but should be considered after addressing all that other stuff w/ the bridge.

Truss rod should be adjusted if and only if your neck is the problem. Read my post above. You should do the "measurement" I mentioned in my earlier post before starting to adjust anything. It's just useless to adjust the bridge if the neck is the real problem. It might solve the fret buzz problem but it might affect your guitar's playability. For example I had to raise my action on my Charvel ridiculously high to get rid of the buzz. If you can't have low action without buzzing, truss rod might be the problem. And it doesn't kill your guitar if you adjust it. People make adjusting the truss rod sound a lot scarier than it really is. Yes, you can screw up your neck but I think all adjustments should be done carefully. If you adjust it carefully, just 1/8 or 1/4 turn at the time, nothings going to break.
Quote by AlanHB
Just remember that there are no boring scales, just boring players.

Gear

Bach Stradivarius 37G
Charvel So Cal
Hartke HyDrive 210c
Ibanez BL70
Laney VC30
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