#1
I recently bought a book called "Guitar Tone: Pursuing the Ultimate Guitar Sound" (some of you may have heard of it.)

This book goes into crazy amounts of detail about you guitar and its signal path and how to craft your ultimate guitar tone and it made me begin designing my 'dream guitar' in more detail than I had originally - basically wood, pickups, amp, speaker and tubes.

Here is what I have so far (guitar only at the moment)

It's a guitar that's designed for high gain by the way.

Body
• Wood
o Mahogany, Quarter sawn.
o Naturally seasoned.

• Finish
o Dark grey, Matte (HTML #444444).

• Binding
o Mother of pearl.

• Design
o Flat top.
o Maple top.
o Solid body.
o Neck through.

• Bridge
o Stoptail, adjustable.
o Titanium*.
• Pickups
o Active Humbucker, 24v
o Cope well with high gain and low tunings (C2-F1 Standard)
o Have clear, tight bottom end and smooth, non-harsh highs
o Think Seymour Duncan AHB-3
o Not bothered about cleans, this guitar is focussed on distortion/overdrive.

(In the book it goes into A LOT more detail on pickups but it would take ages to type out.)


Neck
• Scale
o 28 5/8.

• Frets
o 24, Medium jumbo (Titanium*).
o Shallow toothed.

• Fretboard
o Ebony
o Compound radius

• Neck
o Reinforcing bar, graphite fibre.
o Medium thick.

• Headstock
o Tilted.
o Reinforced.
o Symmetrical.
o Large*1.
o Titanium nut*.
o Titanium tuners.
o Mother of pearl binding.

* (Titanium transfers vibration more efficiently, improving sustain)
** (Large headstocks can improve sustain due to the increased mass)

If you're unsure about what some of these things are a quick google should give you the answers.

If there's anything else you I've missed point it out for me, the book probably isn't perfect
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#2
MOP binding would be crazy expensive if it were real (AFAIK).

Many people don't care for titanium (or metal in general) nuts due to them only affecting open strings, and it makes them sound a bit twangy.

More than 18v through actives isn't a noticeable difference.

Titanium bridge would be crazy expensive for a minimal improvement.

Titanium tuners would also be very expensive with what I'm sure would be no noticeable improvement.

Titanium fretwire wouldn't be a huge improvement, once again expensive with no noticeable improvement.

Shallow toothed? If you mean scalloped, a lot of people don't care for it so make sure you like that.

Same "make sure you like it" for the scale length and compound radius.


Other than that, looks like it'd work. There's a lot of it that's just opinion, so I tried not to comment on that. Shape looks neat but a bit uncomfortable if you ever plan to sit. And like it'd only fit in certain metal bands.
#3
Quote by Wisthekiller
Shape looks neat but a bit uncomfortable if you ever plan to sit. And like it'd only fit in certain metal bands.

It's the exact same shape as a B.C.Rich warbeast except the bottom tooth is a little curved. With that in mind a warbeast isn't uncomfortable to play (for me) and all I do is sit, I supposed if you rest on your guitar extraordinarily hard it could be though.

Many of the upgrades you want are just going to hike the price of the thing up without providing any real difference. You're going to end up having to pay a custom shop/luthier to do it if you don't do it yourself.

Honestly you'd be saving alot of time,
as for the scalloped frets, many people actually dislike them and I think you'd be smart to play a guitar that has them for a while before committing to having a guitar built with them.


You'll save alot of time, money and frustration in buying a good baritone and a nice amp. and will have more noticable tonal difference
Quote by R45VT
Bastards.
Last edited by Viban at May 24, 2013,
#4
Quote by Wisthekiller


Many people don't care for titanium (or metal in general) nuts due to them only affecting open strings, and it makes them sound a bit twangy.


But by using the same material for the nut as you do the frets makes the tone consistant between open and fretted notes. The nut and frets on my Warwick are made of bell brass, and even the open notes have a rich ring to them.
#5
Quote by Deliriumbassist
But by using the same material for the nut as you do the frets makes the tone consistant between open and fretted notes. The nut and frets on my Warwick are made of bell brass, and even the open notes have a rich ring to them.

Wouldn't it also be possible to just use a zero fret, making the nut material irrelevant?
REGGIE