#1
Hello UG! This is my first post on here, and I think it might be a good one. I 've had an Epiphone Flying V Goth sitting around for a while, the through body version with a V shaped tailpiece. I got it used on the cheap a while back, and it has had some wiring issues since I bought it. I love to tinker and build things, so I figured it was time to rip it apart and put some new stuff into it. It had all the stick parts in it from the factory I think, but it looks like the last owner tried putting in a treble bleed kit into it, and overheated everything. I have already started and did not take any pictures of what it looked like before, or of what I have done so far. I will try and take some pictures of the guitar tomorrow to throw up here.

Anyway, here is a list of what I am doing to the guitar:

Replacing the Nut with a Black TUSQ XL (The old one was worn down so far the D string was always pressed onto the first fret.
Replacing the bridge with at GraphTech ResoMax NV2 (Got it on the cheap online), this has 6mm posts and the stock posts are 4mm, so some work needs to be done for this.
Got a DiMarzio D-Activator X Neck pickup, again, got it cheap online
A Seymour Duncan SH-13 DimeBucker for the Bridge position, got this one really cheap online, it is used though, but looks like it is in almost new condition.
2 DiMarzio Custom Taper 500k Pots for volumes.
1 DiMarzio 500k Push/Pull pot for tone control and coil tapping.
New mounting rungs for the pups, the old ones where cracked from over tightening.
I do a lot of electronics work and had a roll of 3" wide copper tape, so I will be putting that on the back side of the pickgaurd.
I also have some conductive silver paint laying around so I will probably fill the cavities with this also.
Jupiter .01uf Capacitor
I also have some pre-made bleed kits I might use alligator clips to see how these sound before soldering these into he guitar though.
I got a flush mount 1/4" jack also, but it is too deep to fit into the guitar, so I went to the local electronics shop and found one there that fits nicely, after a bit of modification to the jack.
I am also replacing all of the wiring with shielded coaxial-style cable, 22ga I think.
I also have some orange drop caps laying around, .022uf I believe. If I don't like the Jupiter I might switch over to these.

So here is what I have done so far.

I started this a few days ago, I took everything off the guitar the first day, didn't do any actuall building, just got all my parts organized and got the tools ready.

The next day I made a template for the ResoMax bridge out of 1" particle board, then mounted a 1/16" piece of aluminum and drilled that also. The post spacing of the ResoMax is about .04" wider than the stock bridge so I wanted to make sure this was perfect before drilling into the body of my guitar. After the fourth try I finally got it perfect, and that was using a dial caliper to measure it. I think I need to get a new drill press because this would have been way easier with that. I drilled out the holes in the guitar and mounted the posts into the guitar, test fit was perfect. The Goth Flying V's where /58 Korina's painted flat black and different electronics in them, and the XII on the 12th fret, so I had to drill out the post hole in the pickguard also. Next I put the copper tape into the back of the pickgaurd, then mounted all the pots to the pickgaurd. After mounting the pots I realized that the push/pull pot was a little too long, just my 1/8" or so. I had to route out some of the cavity for this to fit properly.

Today I went back out and re-painted the cavity black with some flat black enamel, then I started on the soldering. I soldered everything on the back of the pickgaurd possible without mounting it to the guitar, so for the tone cap, pots, grounding, and part of the push/pull together. I sanded down my new flush mount jack to get it to fit into the cavity while mounted to the jack plate. once the black enamel was dry I painted the cavities with silver conductive paint, and mounted a small screw inside for grounding. I also put a small amount of conductive paint into the string holes, and to the body where the tailpiece mounts for grounding the strings. I used a multimeter to test the string grounding of the stock setup, and there was no connection. due to the paint on the guitar, go figure.

So tomorrow if I get time I will work on the guitar some more, and I will also try and take some pictures of that I have done so far.

Let me know any suggestions you guys have or tell me what you think. Total cost is somewhere around $400, that is including the price I paid for the guitar a few years back.

Also as a side note, once I get back into playing and have honed my skills a little better I will see about recording some stuff with this guitar and posting it up here. I have been "playing" for a long time, but I never really buckled down to learn what I needed to in order to become a true player. Once I get better and not so embarrassed of my lack-luster skills I will post something up for you guys.

Thanks for reading!

Ctullu
#2
So today I went in and soldered the pickups and the output jack to the circuit. I put everything back together and strung it up. Intonation was way off, witht he new bridge I was expecting that, but I made some adjustments to the saddles and it is good now. I had to do some minor adjustments one I had everything together to correct the action. But now it is back together and working. I have some pictures I took with my phone, so I will post those up tonight I think.

There is a huge difference in the guitars sound now. There is much more sustain with the new setup than there was before. The Dimebucker has a lot more output than the stock pickup, and it seems to really pickup the high notes. The DiMarzio Neck D-Activator X I like a lot, the sound is so much better than the stock pickup.
#4
I finally got some pictures, not very many, but here are a few. Excuse my crappy soldering, I had been up for almost 30 hours when I did the soldering. Anyway, here are the pictures.

Here is the backside of the pickgaurd after I soldered everything except the jack and the pickups


Here is the neck pickup, DiMarzio D-Activator X.


And the Seymour Duncan SH-13 DimeBucker for the bridge.


Here is the front side of the pickgaurd with the new electronics and new top hat knobs.


Here is the guitar body after putting conductive paint into all the cavities.


Here is the new GraphTech nut installed after sanding for fit.


Here is another view of the nut showing the height of the string grooves.


And here is a view of the body re-assembled. There is a lot of small scratches on the pickgaurd, and the hole I drilled for the new bridge is a little off, so I might get a new one, thinking of a 3 ply black-white-black one.


And finally here is a view of the whole guitar. Sorry for the bad quality on this one.



I will try and get some better pictures to post in the future for you guys to see. I took all of these with my phone so they aren't really that great.

Anyway, tell me what you think, and let me know any tips you veterans might have.

Thanks for the read!
Ctullu
#5
Beautiful. Shiny new pick guard sounds like a good idea. I'm a huge fan of the standard Gibson shaped v. How does it play?
#6
It plays pretty good, the intonation is off just a hair on the G string though and I haven't had any free time to do more adjustments yet. I also wired the tone pot backwards... so turning it to 0 is max. Like I said in my last post, I was up for almost 30 hours strait, and it showed. I will probably go back in there and fix it later, but for now I am good with it. The only thing I don't like about the guitar is that it is very neck heavy, so the neck with drop if you let it go. I find myself holding the necks weight wile playing, which makes it a little more difficult to play. But overall I think it plays pretty well.
#7
my LTD FX400 is neck heavy, found it really irritating when i first got it, but i bought a brown suede strap which is grippy as anything and holds the guitar well enough that it now stops it. Not entirely sure how effective doing that sort of thing would work with all guitars. as mine did point at the floor when i let it go but it wasnt especially neck heavy.

How well do other stardard V's normally balance? I have never actually played one.