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#1
Hey Guys,

I picked up a Peavey Nano Valve amp this morning (it just has the one dial, input and power switch).

I was really impressed with the sound and volume considering how small it is.

I've just seen online that people are changing the speaker inside. Is that worth doing?

Also, it fell over in the boot of my car on the way back and I was just wondering if that would damage the tubes or the speaker? (It wasn't a big fall, only from standing on to it's front.
#2
If you broke the glass on a tube you'd know. It wouldn't work any more.
They aren't as fragile as a lot of people think. You've pretty much gotta drop them on concrete to break them. They used to use tubes in cars, trucks, planes and even tanks, They're tough little blighters.
If you want to check how well they're seated in their sockets just pull them out and put them back in again.
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#3
It's only worth changing the speaker if you aren't happy with the sound you're getting & think that will solve the problem. As you're impressed with it, to me it sounds like you don't need to.
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Last edited by GaryBillington at Jun 29, 2013,
#4
There wasn't any rattling or anything and the floor of the boot in car my is only a toughened plastic so I didn't think it would be enough to damage it. If I'm honest I thought they were really fragile.

So I'm guessing when you break a tube the glass is broken not just the bit on the inside?

In regards to the speaker it sounded fine to me and I think that replacing the speaker might be a bit over kill as it's only a little practice amp. It's way better than the Blackstar HT-1 I had.
#5
Quote by Viowithcrailtap
There wasn't any rattling or anything and the floor of the boot in car my is only a toughened plastic so I didn't think it would be enough to damage it. If I'm honest I thought they were really fragile.

So I'm guessing when you break a tube the glass is broken not just the bit on the inside?


Well, if you were to physically damage a tube, yes the glass would crack or shatter. How do you know if your tube has a crack you ask? Well look at the silver-grey coating on the inside of the tube, thats a reactive material used to remove air after the tube is sealed. If your tube is cracked and air leaks in, that stuff turns white.

Most tubes are fairly hardly, it takes quite a bit to hurt them. Other than cars and tanks, I think tubes were also used in jet fighters and missiles.
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#6
Quote by ragingkitty
Well, if you were to physically damage a tube, yes the glass would crack or shatter. How do you know if your tube has a crack you ask? Well look at the silver-grey coating on the inside of the tube, thats a reactive material used to remove air after the tube is sealed. If your tube is cracked and air leaks in, that stuff turns white.


I'll check for that later. I'm probably going to replace the tubes at some point (as it'll cost next to nothing). This might sound stupid but I won't need to bias this amp will I?
#7
Just based on typical designs, I'd say its not likely to need. That said I didn't check the specs.
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#8
Changing the speaker isn’t likely to make it sound better because Peavey doesn’t use bad speakers in the first place. But you might get a different voicing with a different speaker. Peavey amps tend to have a modern sound and switching to a Celestion Eight 15 might get you a more vintage sound. People commonly replace the HT-1 speaker because it has nasty mids that kill chord separation and make the amp sound especially boxy, but you don’t seem to have that issue with the Peavey.

Keep in mind that a lot of people who post about speaker mods on amps like this just do it because their hobby is compulsively modding cheap gear. They’re like guys who bolt a scrap-metal spoiler on an old Honda and think they’re somehow making the car faster and more attractive.
#9
up to you regarding the speaker. You don't have that many options for 8" speakers, and it's debatable how much of an improvement it'll be in such a small (probably mdf?) enclosure. that being said, most 8" speakers are pretty cheap so it probably wouldn't be the end of the world either...

I haven't tried the amp, so

Quote by jpnyc

Keep in mind that a lot of people who post about speaker mods on amps like this just do it because their hobby is compulsively modding cheap gear. They’re like guys who bolt a scrap-metal spoiler on an old Honda and think they’re somehow making the car faster and more attractive.


that's a good point, lol
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
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#10
Yeah I see what you're saying. It won't hurt my wallet to get a different speaker but on the other hand it might not be needed.

It sounds good at the minute but I've only had a go on the clean settings as the dirty has to be loud before it kicks in.

The shop I bought this amp from had it labelled as 1 Watt but I've learned that it's actually 5 watts which explains why it's so loud. They also said it only had 1 x 12AX7 when I can see it has 1 x 12AX7 and 1 x EL84. The 12AX7 is from EH (which sounds great) and the EL84 is from Sovtek (but as I've not heard it at the right volume I have no opinion on it yet).

I like the older rock/ meal tone but I'm not going to try and get a Marshall tone from this. It's a good little amp as it is. Could do with a clean though..
Last edited by Viowithcrailtap at Jun 29, 2013,
#11
If it's got a single EL84 then it almost certainly cathode biased so it won't have to be rebiased when you change it. Find me a schematic and I'll confirm this for you but it would be highly unlikely to be otherwise.

Sovtek EL84's are shit, put a JJ in it.
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#12
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#13
Quote by Cathbard
If it's got a single EL84 then it almost certainly cathode biased so it won't have to be rebiased when you change it. Find me a schematic and I'll confirm this for you but it would be highly unlikely to be otherwise.

Sovtek EL84's are shit, put a JJ in it.


Apparently it's similar to the Royal 8. I'll try and hunt down a schematic for you.

I was going to put a JJ EL84 in.
#14
i'd assume you don't need to bias it as it's a single-ender (and they're normally cathode-biased). but as cath says if you can find a schematic he can confirm that.

and yeah put a jj el84 in there.

if you do decide to go for a new speaker, it's very dependent on what type of tone you're after (and also what country you're in as different speakers are better value in different places).
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#15
Quote by Dave_Mc
i'd assume you don't need to bias it as it's a single-ender (and they're normally cathode-biased). but as cath says if you can find a schematic he can confirm that.

and yeah put a jj el84 in there.

if you do decide to go for a new speaker, it's very dependent on what type of tone you're after (and also what country you're in as different speakers are better value in different places).


Yeah, the Celestion Eight 15 is around £25 and the WGS G8C is around £35. I've seen a couple of videos with the Celestion and its quite nice.
#16
i haven't tried any aftermarket 8" speakers

the jensen mod/ch series is pretty reasonable value too. might be too american-sounding, though.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#17
I honk m just going to grab a Celestion. I like the sound and either I'll be getting a better speaker so i can't really lose.
#18
Ok just having a read on Wikipedia abut the classes of amps. I'm guessing class A is the best to have because you get 100% of input signal?
#19
nah it doesn't really matter what the class is.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#20
Quote by Viowithcrailtap
Ok just having a read on Wikipedia abut the classes of amps. I'm guessing class A is the best to have because you get 100% of input signal?


No. Class A just means all of your power tubes are dissipating their max heat at idle, and the power tube is amplifying the entire wave; it's extremely inefficient. A/B uses a pair (or multiple pairs) of power tubes in push-pull so that one side amplifies while one side is turned off and vice versa. True class B means you'd have a nasty notch where one side shuts off and one side starts amplifying, so in practice, class B is unheard of in guitar amps and a combination is used. Neither side is ever 100% "off", but other than that, operation is fairly similar to class B in that half of the wave form is amplified by one side and the other half by the other side, hence pushing and pulling.
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#21
Ah right, I wonder why they have class A on this little amp in such big writing. So I guess it means my power tube will burn out faster?
#22
Quote by Cathbard
If it's got a single EL84 then it almost certainly cathode biased so it won't have to be rebiased when you change it. Find me a schematic and I'll confirm this for you but it would be highly unlikely to be otherwise.

Sovtek EL84's are shit, put a JJ in it.


I've got a schematic from Peavey and the guy from Peavey said the amp is fixed bias.
#23
But did he mean fixed biased or was he just trying to tell you that it didn't need to be biased? Those two things are basically unrelated to each other. You see the term "fixed biased" butchered unmercifully at times. Can you post the schematic so I can see it? Peavey normally don't need biasing but I would like to see it.
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#25
don't quote me on this, but i think that looks like cathode-biased. there's a resistor (and a cap) coming off the cathode there.

single enders are normally cathode-biased.

wait till cath confirms.

as he says, though, people butcher the technical terms something awful

Quote by Viowithcrailtap
Ah right, I wonder why they have class A on this little amp in such big writing. So I guess it means my power tube will burn out faster?


because most people who know nothing about amps think, "Oh wow it's class A, that *must* be the best!"
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#26
Quote by Dave_Mc

because most people who know nothing about amps think, "Oh wow it's class A, that *must* be the best!"


That's because Class A is the best, at least for fidelity.

Unfortunately guitar amps and fidelity only have a passing relationship, so it's not nearly the selling point that some folks think it is...
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#27
Yea, that schem indicates that it's cathode biased. No need to do anything when swapping the power tube.
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#28
Quote by Dave_Mc

because most people who know nothing about amps think, "Oh wow it's class A, that *must* be the best!"


To be honest I had no idea about the different classes until I bought this one and its like "HEY, I'M CLASS A" with it written on in big letters and I did think ooh that sounds good cause I've heard Marshall do Class A amps so it must be good.

So changing the tube and speaker should be simple then? Also would any loose connections in the amp be noticeable or would I have to know what to look for?
Last edited by Viowithcrailtap at Jul 1, 2013,
#29
All of the highest regarded Marshalls are class A/B.
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#30
Ive just had a read on Eurotubes about EL84 and ECC83 tubes and they really know their stuff.

I think I'm going to replace both tubes with JJ's as the guys at Eurotubes rate them above a lot of others.
#31
Quote by Arby911
That's because Class A is the best, at least for fidelity.

Unfortunately guitar amps and fidelity only have a passing relationship, so it's not nearly the selling point that some folks think it is...


LOL

Quote by mmolteratx
All of the highest regarded Marshalls are class A/B.


+1

Most highly regarded amps are class A/B. About the only real exception that I can think of off-hand is the champ.

Heck they always claim the vox ac30 is class a, and it's not.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#32
Quote by Dave_Mc


Heck they always claim the vox ac30 is class a, and it's not.


It's my understanding that they are a push-pull design biased for a 100% conduction angle, no?

That's class A, regardless of the push-pull aspect.

I'm speculating that's how the 'texture' knob on the Valveking works, it alters bias to affect conduction angle percentage so it can go from 360(Class A) to somewhere over 180(AB). Not positive on that though, so don't quote me.
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#33
No, the AC30 isn't conducting 100% of the time. It alternates just like any other p-p amp. If it were a true class A amp with 4xEL84s, it wouldn't be able to put out 30W RMS as well.
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#34
Quote by mmolteratx
No, the AC30 isn't conducting 100% of the time. It alternates just like any other p-p amp. If it were a true class A amp with 4xEL84s, it wouldn't be able to put out 30W RMS as well.


Fair enough, I stand corrected. I had read elsewhere that it was and simply assumed that it was a victim of the "push-pull amps can't be class A" fallacy.

Good writeup on the issue here.

http://www.aikenamps.com/VoxAC30classA_2.html
“Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge.”
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#35
yeah i don't think it's class a. as matt said, it's a bit high wattage to be class a. single enders normally put out ~5 watts for one el84 in class a, so four times that is well short of 30 watts (and, iirc, the ac30 is actually putting out a little bit more than 30). obviously there's more involved technical stuff to it than that (e.g. the aiken link you posted, good call), but yeah.

I think the texture knob on the valveking can be filed under "Bullshit marketing TM" LOL

Also most marketing talks about the "sweet sound of class a overdrive" when the description of class a makes clear it's only applicable "before the onset of clipping"

and yeah i'm aware there's that "class a amps can't be push-pull" BS doing the rounds. most push-pulls are class a/b (even most of the ones that claim to be a), but as you said, it's not an either/or thing, you can technically have a push-pull in class a, even if it's a fairly rare occurrence.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Jul 1, 2013,
#36
From memory, the ValveKing's texture control essentially acts as a master volume for one side of the push-pull amp, letting you dial in the symmetry of the output drive.
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#37
i can't remember, but i remember reading that it absolutely didn't turn it from class a to class a/b, lol. It may well simulate it like that or something
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#38
Quote by Viowithcrailtap
Here you go.

And there it is. It is NOT fixed biased. It is in fact cathode biased and as such will not need to be rebiased when you replace the power tube (or any others for that matter)
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#39
Quote by Cathbard
And there it is. It is NOT fixed biased. It is in fact cathode biased and as such will not need to be rebiased when you replace the power tube (or any others for that matter)


Sweet! Thanks for confirming that.
#40
Quote by Viowithcrailtap
Here you go.

Am I missing something or is there no standby switch on that schem? Isn't that a bit dodgy considering it's diode-rectified?
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