#1
My dad just purchased a used Line 6 Spider (the original one, with the red face plate) at a garage sale for $60. It worked perfectly fine and was in great condition. So, I came over today to try it out, and it sounded better than I thought it would.

Anyway, after playing it for about half an hour, going through all the different settings and finding a few that sounded surprisingly good, I turned it off, we talked for about a minute, then I went to flip it back on... and nothing. No lights, no sound. So we try turning it back off, unplugging it, leaving it off / unplugged for a while. I even looked up how to factory reset it on Line 6's website (hold the channel A button for 8 seconds while you turn it on) and nothing worked.

The peculiar things is, sometimes when we turn it on, all of the lights will go on, then no lights will go on, then only some of them will go on, then some will go on, but they won't be the same few that went on the last time I turned it on. Either way though, we can't get ANY sound out of it. It's really quite confusing.

At this point, I think it might be that something in the internal programming of the amp is messed up, but I have no idea how one could go about fixing this. So, does anyone have any idea what the problem may be, or how I could fix it? Any help / input at this point would be appreciated.
#3
Do you mean the plug, or the internal transformer? Because I tried a different plug and it didn't matter. There is a fuse above the input for the power cable, but I'm not sure how to remove it.
#4
The internal transformer. You say the amp sometimes turns on, but not everything gets powered. Faulty power flow throughout the amp in an indicator of it. If it was just the plug, everything would be dead.
^This is just based on my experience dealing with electronics repairs, I worked in repair shop for a short time, but since I don't have the thing in front of me, I could be wrong, tho.
#5
Yeah, that might be it. Is that something that would just go out of nowhere? Because it was working perfectly fine then I turn it off, turn it back on, and it gives me nothing. If that's the case, I'm guessing the repair and labor would be more than the amp is worth...
#6
Probably... it could even be worse, the whole thing could be fried, basically, in that case, it's totaled. It must have been the power surge that did it, I think it was broken before your dad bought it. Might have broke with it's first owner or it could've come as a factory lemon. As for everything working properly the first time you turned it on, weird stuff happens with faulty PSUs, I've seen half-dead ones in PCs run perfectly fine the first time you turn them on, and once you shut the PC down, it won't start up again until you, say, rip out a single RAM card or something random like that.
Still, have it checked out by a tech, tho from my perspective, it doesn't look too good.
EDIT: Hold on, it could just be faulty firmware, I've heard Peavy Vypyrs going crazy because of it, until updated. That could be it. I'll have to look into that tho, can't right now, it's 1am here.
Last edited by Pandorum at Jul 7, 2013,
#7
Wtf? All this waffle and the fuse hasn't been checked yet? That's like stripping down the carby on your car before checking if there was fuel in the tank.
Work out how to pop the fuse out and check it, it aint brain surgery.
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#8
Pandorum: It didn't just work fine once. My dad had been using it on and off for around 2 weeks before I even saw the amp yesterday. I'm probably not taking it to a tech because it wouldn't even be worth it in terms of the cost, given he only paid $60 for the amp. The firmware honestly seems likely because given the odd things the lights are doing, and the fact that nothing physical seems to be wrong with the amp, I'm guessing that's a fair possibility.

Cathbard: Checked the fuse as soon as I figured out how to pry it out of there yesterday without damaging it, and its fine. I was just pressed for time yesterday because I'm not going to be back there to help my pops out for at least another week, so I wanted to make this thread ASAP. Though this seemed unlikely to me from the get-go, I've never seen a faulty / blown fuse cause anything other than the amp not turning on at all.
#9
It is a 65 watt 1x12 combo, I had one yrs ago. It will deff cost more than the purchase price to fix it. Line 6 will not sell anything to you unless you are a L6 certified repair shop.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
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#10
I'd agree on power supply, it's quite an old amp and the electronics might be using quite different ICs that require different levels to function, so some controllers cut out while others don't when the voltage drops too far. Microcontrollers also flip out if they can't draw enough current/the voltage goes too low and they're designed to run on mains only so they don't have a low voltage cutout; inconsistent/impossible states can occur if say memory isn't refreshed properly, or flash memory fails to write intermittently. I've seen this with original GameBoy Pockets, as their old-world CPU used 5V transistor technology, while the batteries supplied at best 3V, requiring a step-up convertor which sometimes fails. Or it could be a damaged trace, happens.

Either way, hard to repair, certainly cost more than the amp's worth, sadly.
#11
Okay, my dad texted me yesterday and told me that now its working perfectly fine again. How odd. Would this point to it being the transformer, or a glitch in the software, or something else?

The thing is, if its the transformer, I could actually replace that relatively easily, because it is only a few wires. On top of that, I work at an electrical supply house, so I could probably get the necessary transformer pretty cheap.

Robbgnarly: I'm pretty sure its a 50 watt combo, it even says on the front of it that its 50 watts.
Last edited by Don't Taze Me B at Jul 9, 2013,
#12
Quote by Don't Taze Me B
Okay, my dad texted me yesterday and told me that now its working perfectly fine again. How odd. Would this point to it being the transformer, or a glitch in the software, or something else?

The thing is, if its the transformer, I could actually replace that relatively easily, because it is only a few wires. On top of that, I work at an electrical supply house, so I could probably get the necessary transformer pretty cheap.

Robbgnarly: I'm pretty sure its a 50 watt combo, it even says on the front of it that its 50 watts.

If you are confident in repairing it, give it a shot.

I had the original 1x12 spider combo, and I could have swore it was 65 watts, but L6 does say it was 50 so......

either way good luck
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#13
Do a recap too. I'd imagine the caps have a much shorter lifespan than the transformer.
#14
Quote by jameswilddev
Do a recap too. I'd imagine the caps have a much shorter lifespan than the transformer.

Recap? Not sure what that is. What are the caps?
#15
If you don't know what a capacitor is, you likely don't have the experience to be replacing mains voltage parts safely in my opinion, sorry.

Power supplies often use capacitors for smoothing rectified AC into DC or similar. (lots of different kinds of power supply) For the large capacities needed, large capacitances are needed, and the only economical/not massive way to do this is with electrolytic capacitors, which have a finite lifespan. These components should have bleeder resistors to discharge them, but can still hold a lethal charge if they bleed very slowly, the resistor is missing or damaged, or was cost cut. (probably not on a Line 6) It's not as bad as on tube amps, where you might also have a few hundred volts' AC or DC running out to the tubes too, but you can still injure or even kill yourself if you don't know what you're doing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
#16
Quote by jameswilddev
If you don't know what a capacitor is, you likely don't have the experience to be replacing mains voltage parts safely in my opinion, sorry.

Power supplies often use capacitors for smoothing rectified AC into DC or similar. (lots of different kinds of power supply) For the large capacities needed, large capacitances are needed, and the only economical/not massive way to do this is with electrolytic capacitors, which have a finite lifespan. These components should have bleeder resistors to discharge them, but can still hold a lethal charge if they bleed very slowly, the resistor is missing or damaged, or was cost cut. (probably not on a Line 6) It's not as bad as on tube amps, where you might also have a few hundred volts' AC or DC running out to the tubes too, but you can still injure or even kill yourself if you don't know what you're doing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague



I doubt it's an issue of not knowing what a capacitor is. The term "recap" is a term I only seem to hear in amp forums. People throwing the lingo around may know less than the guy asking what he's talking about. No offense to anyone. Just the automatic assumptions of people in forums gets silly sometimes. He said he works at an electronics supply place. To assume he needs schooling on capacitors is a bit rushed don't you think?
#17
Quote by Don't Taze Me B
What are the caps?

Quote by D_M_I
To assume he needs schooling on capacitors is a bit rushed don't you think?


Sorry, I don't mean to cause offense, I'm just hoping nobody kills themselves or loses the nerves in a finger today trying to fix quite an old amplifier.
#18
Quote by jameswilddev
Sorry, I don't mean to cause offense, I'm just hoping nobody kills themselves or loses the nerves in a finger today trying to fix quite an old amplifier.



I realize this. But just going right to a class seemed a bit much.

If you are going to tell someone to change them without knowing their ability, and then get a bit uppity about it when they don't understand what you are saying....
Last edited by D_M_I at Jul 10, 2013,
#19
Quote by D_M_I
I realize this. But just going right to a class seemed a bit much.

If you are going to tell someone to change them without knowing their ability, and then get a bit uppity about it when they don't understand what you are saying....


Quote by Don't Taze Me B
Recap? Not sure what that is. What are the caps?


I'd say it was a reasonable assumption. The only one appearing 'uppity' here is....you...
“Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge.”
Charles Darwin
#20
Quote by Arby911
I'd say it was a reasonable assumption. The only one appearing 'uppity' here is....you...



Noted.
#21
jameswilddev: I have never heard that term used before to refer to a capacitor, that is why I was confused on what you were talking about. Granted, I haven't done any real amp repair besides real basic stuff like exchanging tubes. But I obviously know what a capacitor is, I just haven't ever heard the term "recap" for "replacing the capacitor(s)". You ARE being uppity because you assume that I do not know what a capacitor is when the reasonable assumption would be to assume I just don't know that terminology.

D_M_I: Yes, I do work at an electric supply company, but we deal with mainly residential and commercial wiring, very few small electronics repairs. So I do not know a lot about amp repair.
#22
Okay, so its not working now, again. Maybe if I see him this weekend, I'll attempt to update the software? If you can even do that on a Spider I, idk.
#23
Quote by Don't Taze Me B
Okay, so its not working now, again. Maybe if I see him this weekend, I'll attempt to update the software? If you can even do that on a Spider I, idk.

Nope, there were no ways of upgrading any spider series except the most recent IV
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate