OK, I've been round and round with a wiring problem the last couple of days and I'd like to see if anyone is up for a challenge. I've got the parts in the attached diagram on hand and I'd like to have a solution that allows for the following:

1. A solo or "burst" circuit that bypasses the tone/volume pots completely
2. A parallel/series switch for the single humbucker (Seymour Duncan Distortion)
3. A coil tap, preferably to allow me to switch between the north and south coils
4. A treble bleed circuit on the volume knob.

The three switches pictured are all ON/ON DPDT. One is a latching footswitch style (which I'd like to have as a switch between the solo and switching circuits) and the others are a heavy duty toggle style. The volume and tone are both 500k.

So, first one to give me a nice working diagram get's $20 to their paypal upon delivery, or I will order you a pizza. Sounds like fun right?! OK, GO!

Also, THANK YOU SO MUCH. (this has been driving me crazy, all my proposed solutions have problems and I know that someone out there has the know how, and need for $20 or pizza, to make my dreams come true)
ok so here is the picture

I believe this should work. I was feeling a little sick in the morning so pardon me if I have an error, I'll quickly fix it if so, and of course pardon my paint skills

Switch 1 (on the left): does coil tapping, unfortunately I couldnt think of a way to be able to choose the poles, but usually with some pickups I've had, it matters which pickup is splat out of the signal, so yeah you might not wanna do that may be

switch 2 (in the mid) is the series parallel switch. It doesnt function during the coil split mode. Either way of the switch 2, the signal still flows.

switch 3 is the solo boost switch

the way the tone and volume are wired is a treble mod known also as the fezz parka mod. this should work, if you don't like the effect and want a traditional treble bleed circuit (which in my experience doesnt work as well as the fezz does) I'll be happy to edit the schematic. just drop me an email or write here

also don't mean to seem like an asshole but I could really appreciate the 20$ especially now after the tragedy that happened in my family. paypal is v.shred@yahoo.com

Last edited by Vendetta V at Sep 9, 2013,
V, thanks for quick reply. I have a few questions...

1. What are you trying to tell me here? That this may or may not work?

"Switch 1 (on the left): does coil tapping, unfortunately I couldnt think of a way to be able to choose the poles, but usually with some pickups I've had, it matters which pickup is splat out of the signal, so yeah you might not wanna do that may be "

2. Switch 1 appears to have a pole with nothing happening, is this intentional?

3. The Fezz Parka Mod is not really a treble bleed as far as I can tell, since it will effectively just pull the tone pot out of the mix, and not affect how the treble drops when lowering the volume.

4. Wouldn't the solo/switching DPDT need to be wired in ahead of the other switches? Or does that not matter?

5. Prize money comes w/a sound sample of my working guitar :P I'll be wiring it up this week, hopefully tomorrow night.

Thanks aging for the help and incoming follow-up. I think we are on the right path. Cheers!
Alright here we go:

1. this will work, just no option to choose which pole. I've gone with the north one as that's the one they leave in the signal on Seymur Duncan wiring diagrams. so it should work as it's designed to. Just no option to choose the other pole, I'm not sure whether that's possible with the current amount of switches and things to be done.

2. yes, again sorry my paint skills. The bottom right lug on Switch 1 leaves the signal intact when on one side, an on the other, it shunts the white wire and the red wire both to ground.

3. the fezzer mod has worked for me but if you're doubting it I'll upload a schem soon with a traditional treble bleed.

4. it would matter. technically speaking, we can't write it before the switches because we'd need a big switch: 4pdt I guess. I still think this is the way to go because you can have your coil splitted and wish to bypass the volume. This is possible if the solo switch is wired after the switches. it's very versatile this way.

5. no worries.
OK, so:

1. OK, I see

2. There should be no wire connected to the bottom right lug on switch 1? Or should the black wire connect to it.

3. I've been thinking that this one is the way to go (Diagram 3) and already have the resistor and cap in hand. http://www.1728.org/guitar3.htm

4. Thanks for the info here. I see what you are saying.

5. Can't wait to wire it up. It would be great if you would add the treble bleed in and provide an updated diagram.

Ok this is the new diagram. I edited the missing lug on the 1st switch just for you, this might be easier to solder too. Either way won't be a difference.

also the treble circuit, that's the blue resistor and cap in parallel, you might wanna do a search for what parameters to choose for each to tailor it to your taste.

EDIT: also, this is some basic stuff but just in case. The ground lugs on the pots: you wan these soldered to the body of the pot. Do that to the volume pot and for tone, solder one side (with the ground sign) of the cap on the tone pot, to the pot's body.

and also do your main earth solder on the volume pot, this means all the solder joints go to one point, and that's the volume pots enlosure/body
Last edited by Vendetta V at Sep 9, 2013,
Here she is!

One little modification and the wiring diagram is working. Thanks V! Paypal incoming