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#1
Has anyone used Corts Locking Trem III's? and im wondering if their a fit for OFR or a Schaller Lockmeister?
#2
do you have the guitar and its floyd rose already? if you do, there should be routing templates on the floyd rose and schaller sites (you might as well check the gotoh ge1996T as well while you're at it, should also be a routing template on the gotoh site) and it should hopefully just be a matter of measuring your trem and its route and comparing it to the routing diagram...

if you don't then I haven't tried that particular trem, sorry
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#3
The guitar already has a floyd in it, i dont think i can find the templates for the cort :/
#4
you shouldn't need to, you already have it so you can just measure the important measurements- distance between the studs, diameter of the studs, size/depth of the sustain block, overall perimeter measurements, nut width etc.
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#5
Ah, I see appreciated know any UK/EU sites where i can get my self a new OFR, Gotoh etc for the cheapest? :P
#6
gotoh prices have gone way up recently unfortunately. WD music is the place I know of which stocks it, but it's probably so dear now I dunno if there's much point.

From what I've seen (and bear in mind I haven't exactly been looking that hard; there may be cheaper options I've missed in other words), the schaller or schaller lockmeister now seem to be the cheapest "good" floyds in europe, for ~£130 or so on thomann for the chrome version. I'd personally probably get the lockmeister, from what I hear it's just a rebranded OFR.
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#8
Do i have to change the mounting studs, when i change the trem? or is it a simple switch
#9
that's one of the dimensions you'd need to check as well- they should list the diameter of the studs on those routing templates, and then it's just a matter of measuring your own. IIRC the OFR stud mounts are around 10mm/1cm, but don't quote me on that. Cheaper trems often use smaller stud mounts, unfortunately.

If your stock studs are still in good condition you could probably get away with using them, but it'd probably void your warranty too (that's what WD music told me when I asked about the gotoh trem, and I'm guessing it applies to the OFR and schallers too).
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#10
Well i checked the dimensions on the schaller website and compared it to mine, the baseplate is a tad bigger then the trem cavity, but the saddles and mounting studs are fine, but the width side of the trem is a bit big :/
#11
If i wanted the trem to fit, i have to route like 10-20 MM for it to fit q.q
#12
ah crap

Have you checked the dimensions of all the "good" trems? Just in case some are a different size.
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#13
unsure about other trems, like the OFR. my studs are 8-9mm, what other good trem's are there?
#14
but then, 10-20mm isnt that much wood to be routed out, is it better to cut it out, or just go for a different trem
#15
I'd probably go for a direct swap if possible, that way it's reversible (if you ever want to sell the guitar, say).

If that's not possible then it's a judgement call- it really depends on how confident you are at working with guitars. I'm useless at it, fwiw. Also depends on how willing you are to risk possibly killing your guitar (if you're not so good at it).

EDIT: other good trems: OFR (also low profile OFR, the OFR pro), schaller, schaller lockmeister and gotoh ge1996T.

Ibanez Edge, lo-pro edge and edge pro should also be good. I doubt that the edge pro would be a direct swap. Doubt the other two are either, IIRC they're slightly bigger than an OFR. But I could be wrong.
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Last edited by Dave_Mc at Sep 15, 2013,
#16
Mmmmk, the schallers dont fit, idk about the low profile OFR and Pro's for the gotoh, the only trems that will fit, are the ones smaller then the schallers, know any trems that are? o.0
#17
not that i'm aware of offhand, unfortunately.
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#18
FML, the best bet for me is routing it out then, since 2CM isnt really that much.
#19
it's your call good luck
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#20
By the way, if the knife edges get dull, what are the solutions, would hardtailing it both sides of the trem work, or putting chapstick/vasaline in or sharping them again? since im kinda unsure about routing
#21
I've never tried sharpening them, so I can't help you there unfortunately
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#23
if you totally block it, probably.
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#24
Mmmk, thanks alot for you help brah i'll proly just hardtail the floyd and keep the tuning stability, rather then routing a fit for a OFR etc
#25
^ yeah on a cheaper guitar it's debatable if it's worth it, really. If a direct swap and you can get a good trem for cheapish, then maybe. Or if the guitar has sentimental value or something like that.
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#26
Quote by Dave_Mc
I've never tried sharpening them, so I can't help you there unfortunately


That's routine maintenance for a Floyd -- you'll want to ask your tech for some advice on that, but it's a very simple process. I took one of mine into a tech a couple of times and he essentially said to me, "You're just wasting your money and my time; come here and let me show you how to do this." You can keep a cheap Floyd going for a couple of centuries if you lube the knife edges and occasionally sharpen them (only when they get dull -- you'll know). I have a very cheap one (Samick from '92) that's fluttering with the best of them to this day.

There's no point in replacing a Floyd on a guitar unless there's something wrong with it or you don't like the color<G>. Seriously, I've had a nice new Schaller waiting on the shelf for the above-mentioned Samick to have some major glitch for years now, and I'm beginning to think I should put it on some other guitar.

If you absolutely need to spend money (and some people do), consider one of the heavy brass sustain blocks from folks like Floyd Upgrades. It will do several things -- it'll change the balance of your guitar slightly (not in a bad way), it'll change the feel of the trem, and it'll change the sound of the guitar a bit. I'm not going to claim "huge improvement in toan," but you'll probably notice a difference in the high mids, for sure. And depending on the rest of the guitar's construction, you may very well notice an improvement in native guitar sustain. I suggest that you do NOT spend your money on Tungsten steel sustain blocks or on the titanium silliness. I've tried both and been *really* underwhelmed, even before someone showed me the price. Ooog.
#27
^ thanks
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#28
Hmm, thanks for that post aswell i'll keep that in mind appriciated :P
#29
Quote by Dave_Mc
^ thanks


You're welcome, and that wasn't aimed at you. Most of my guitar-playing life I've had high-end instruments.

Never really looked at the low-end much, though I've picked up a couple as bar guitars. I've always assumed I needed to spend a certainly level of money in order to get the kind of instrument I wanted. The big change was finding a few techs who are both really top-notch and non-judgmental. They didn't laugh at me or roll their eyes at the other guys in the shop for bringing in a low-end guitar. They were capable of making almost anything play beautifully and sound great. Better yet, they were willing to show me how to maintain my guitars in that condition.

I still appreciate and buy high-end stuff, and I like a mod that makes a notable difference as much as anyone. But today's lower end stuff can be amazingly good if selected with care, set up properly from the beginning, and maintained intelligently over time.
#30
Btw, is there anywhere i can buy a big sustain block for the FR from the UK? since i cant seem to find any, and most if not all are from the US
#31
and any tips on keeping the locking nut in shape? and how many times do you usually lube and file the knife edges?
#32
Quote by Cakey
Btw, is there anywhere i can buy a big sustain block for the FR from the UK? since i cant seem to find any, and most if not all are from the US


No idea. I'm in LA, and I usually buy from FU-TONE.com.

But Floyd Rose now has its own range of big sustain blocks (no guarantee they'll fit on an aftermarket Floyd, of course); maybe they're available in the You Kay. Best of all, check with your local friendly guitar tech. Chances are he's got a source.
#34
Quote by Cakey
and any tips on keeping the locking nut in shape? and how many times do you usually lube and file the knife edges?


I lube every three to six months. Every now and then I'll check the knife edges visually (same general schedule), but I usually don't have to do much -- lubing them extends their life considerably. Maybe every 18 months or so.

I think the lube I use (I'll have to check the little bottles) is White Lightning or some such.

Some upgrade videos from FU-Tone:

http://www.fu-tone.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=page&id=78
#35
Appreciated man, helped me so much and im reconsidering hard-tailing the floyd
#36
Quote by dspellman
You're welcome, and that wasn't aimed at you. Most of my guitar-playing life I've had high-end instruments.

Never really looked at the low-end much, though I've picked up a couple as bar guitars. I've always assumed I needed to spend a certainly level of money in order to get the kind of instrument I wanted. The big change was finding a few techs who are both really top-notch and non-judgmental. They didn't laugh at me or roll their eyes at the other guys in the shop for bringing in a low-end guitar. They were capable of making almost anything play beautifully and sound great. Better yet, they were willing to show me how to maintain my guitars in that condition.

I still appreciate and buy high-end stuff, and I like a mod that makes a notable difference as much as anyone. But today's lower end stuff can be amazingly good if selected with care, set up properly from the beginning, and maintained intelligently over time.


I agree, if something is cheap and just as good, I want to know

I'm not sure about sources for the big blocks in the UK. I've heard of some people buying them on Ebay from the USA, so maybe that's the handiest way to get them?
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#38
yeah that's the problem
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#39
Also, what about really big bends on a floyd, at times it may knock the guitar out of tune, or double stops.
#40
a good floyd (which is setup halfway well at all) shouldn't go out of tune with big bends.

double-stops there's not much you can do if you want the trem to be floating.
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