1) Dust will not affect tone.
2) Poor joints will not hurt tone. I'd also recommend against the average guitarist touching up joints unless they have a decent amount of experience with it, and know what a good joint looks like. If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily **** up a joint and cause it to fail prematurely.
3) I'd recommend just removing the battery if you don't need it. I don't know how many pedals I've seen fail because of corrosive battery acid being strewn throughout, but it's a lot.
4) You don't need to replace every capacitor, just electrolytics which dry out over time, and only every 30-40 years. The only pedals I've come across that ever need the electrolytics replaced are old EHX Electric Mistresses from the 70s that have horrible clock tick.

The repair article is very basic, but has no problems that I see at quick glance. Might want to add that you should always check the polarity protection diode (almost always a 1n400x series diode in a DO-41 package, or a BAT41/46 diode in a DO-35 package) if a pedal won't turn on, or makes no sound when switched on, especially if voltages aren't what they should be. Usually fairly obvious when it's blown.

And FWIW, I think if you're going to host schematics on your site, they should be your own drawings. Though I guess it's okay since you link back to the original sources. Just not a whole lot of point if it's available elsewhere in the exact same format, and a lot of guys don't like it when you post schematics they drew (which they hold the copyright for) somewhere off the original site.
Rhodes Gemini
Fryette Ultra Lead
Peavey 6505
THD Flexi 50

Gibson R0 Prototype
EBMM JP13 Rosewood
Fender CS Mary Kaye


(512) Audio Engineering - Custom Pedal Builds, Mods and Repairs
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