#1
So I just received my Loomis FR back from the tech and he commented on something kind of worrying. Is it possible that the radius of the fretboard (couldn't find for certain, I think its 14'') and the radius of the locking nut of the floyd differ? He explained that he couldn't set it up at the lowest possible action because of the difference between those two.

The guitar is much more playable right now than when I got it, so it isn't absolutely necessary that I fix this issue asap, but is it fixable? The tech also said that this isn't something that shimming is going to solve.

Thanks for your time
#2
It's possible. I'm not familiar with that specific guitar but locking nuts won't always exactly match the fretboard. You could look at purchasing a new new nut and having it installed if it becomes an issue.
#3
Possibly. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the radius on a floyd (at the bridge end) is only available in the one size, so if your neck radius is different, you kind of have to put up with it. It's possible the nut is the same.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
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#4
And where does one find custom-radiused-7-string-floyds? Cause google didn't really help...

From what little I know about floyds and setting them up, is that the bridge end can be radiused differently by using shims. Taking apart a floyd you may notice some little copper squares under the saddles, which are used to modify the radius.
#5
That's true. I did that to a Floyd I set up for an old customer. Super glued on a little bit of an aluminum piece from a coca cola can on a low saddle. I never thought to use that to create a custom radius. Definitely sounds like it could work. I suppose you could do something similar with the nut as far as the center two strings...
#6
That's what I can't really understand how to do On the bridge end you can modify things cause the parts are movable. At the nut on the other hand the only movable part is that which lock the strings into place, where is somebody supposed to insert a shim to modify the radius? You'd need differently cut string slots on the metal part that is screwed into the shelf.
#7
Put a shim underneath the string lock block, that'll slightly raise the middle two, then you can adjust from there. Although, that does seem a little wonky.
#8
^ that's what i was thinking.

good point about shims under the saddles for the bridge part.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#9
Quote by Deledhel
And where does one find custom-radiused-7-string-floyds? Cause google didn't really help...

From what little I know about floyds and setting them up, is that the bridge end can be radiused differently by using shims. Taking apart a floyd you may notice some little copper squares under the saddles, which are used to modify the radius.


I've got two Floyd-equipped guitars with 16" radii and three with 14" (well, 350mm) radii.
No issues whatsoever. I have a tech who tweaks the nuts all day long (though I think there are 16" radius sets out there). The bridges are no problem; I think they may be a 16" radius and the shims are added to make it rounder (12", etc.). I have no idea where you are, but you could probably put a call in to Gary Brawer in San Francisco and he'd tell you what's what.

Custom-radiused Floyds can be done (again, call Gary), but what's *really* entertaining to me are the 10-string guitars with Kahlers. Geez.