#1
Hey, so I've had my Les Paul for about 2 and a half years, and for the previous half year switching from the neck to the bridge pickup has behaved strangely. When playing on a clean channel, I didn't notice much problems (though I don't play clean a lot), but when I play with distortion, every now and then switching from the rhythm to treble setting causes the sound to lose a lot of volume, like I'd just turned both volume and gain on the amp down two notches.

And no, I didn't turn the volume knob on the guitar to 2 or something, I almost always have them at 7 or higher (I don't have a tube amp, so there isn't a big effect from the knobs anyway). When I switch back to rhythm, then to treble again (one or two times), the problem goes away... for an undefined period of time. For the past couple months that hasn't been happening to me, but it returned and has become worse a few weeks ago. Are the electronics in my guitar effed up? If so, I thought a guitar'd last me more than just 2,5 years...
#2
Check the switch and wiring behind for obvious wear/breakage. If there is wear or breakage repair or replace the bits that are broken. If that doesn't work then go back to the start and do these steps again. Pretty sure its the switch.
#3
Quote by dazza027
Check the switch and wiring behind for obvious wear/breakage. If there is wear or breakage repair or replace the bits that are broken. If that doesn't work then go back to the start and do these steps again. Pretty sure its the switch.

+3,1415
The problem TS described is the same i had in my PRS, and it was the switch indeed.

One of those contact "arches" in the middle, that the shaft pushes away to let the other make contact in the center, got loose.
And when i switched from neck to bridge, the "arch" would barely reach the center (causing a volume drop) or wouldn't make contact at all.

I simply fixed it by using a screwdriver to bend the "arch" into place, so that it would make pressure (contact) in the center.


Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#4
Thanks for the suggestions! I'm busy right now, but I'll try fixing it later today or tomorrow.

Just to make sure I understand this well, the "arch" is the thingy right below the golden top part on the example on the right, right? I know I sound dumb but I haven't really toyed with the internal parts of guitars yet, so I just wanna make extra sure not to screw anything up.

I browsed on the net a little bit and people say switches fail quite commonly on LP's, would it be smart to eventually just replace it?
#5
Quote by Navi_96
Just to make sure I understand this well, the "arch" is the thingy right below the golden top part on the example on the right, right? I know I sound dumb but I haven't really toyed with the internal parts of guitars yet, so I just wanna make extra sure not to screw anything up.

Nope, it's not dumb at all. I didn't know either until the problem came up and i opened the back plate on my PRS to take a look around.


As you'll see, the switch shaft in the middle position will allow (or should allow) the tip of both "arches" to meet with a contact in the center.
In that position, you're getting output from both pickups.

When you flick the switch to either position, the shaft will push away one of the "arches", leaving the other pressing against the contact in the center.
You'll get the output from the respective pickup to that "arch". Since the other is not connected to the center, you don't get the output.


If you notice that one of the "arches" isn't creating enough tension to meet in the center, that's probably the source of your problem.
Bend the base of the metal "arch", so that the tip presses against the center when the switch shaft releases it.


Sorry for the crude explanation, i tried to make it as clear as i could. Hope you understood what i meant!
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#6
Epiphones are bad for switches from what I have seen.

You can try to fix it, or if you are any good at soldering, you can replace it for fairly cheap.
YA GOTTA HIT IT ON THE ONE
pics of gear updated on profile 11/16/09
#7
Ok so I tried bending the arch towards the center, and plugged it in... about 50 switches back and fourth, I got the loss in gain only on the 3rd time, so is't still not perfect, but it's much better I think.

I'll rather not try bending further, because the little electronics are angled and the arch that I had to bend was on the side that was angled towards the wood, so I couldn't get a lot of bending anyway. I'll see if anything has changed (sometimes, I just get lucky and everything works perfect during a session), but I hope this will have at least partly eliminated it.

Edit: I guess I'll consider changing the switch at some point. Better than have Mr. Murphy bite me in the arse when I perform or something. (end of edit)

Thanks again, and good night!
Last edited by Navi_96 at Nov 27, 2013,