#1
I posted about this issue a few days ago in another forum (it was more suited there as it also pertained to pickup issues too) however, nobody helped out with the problem:

The Floyd Rose Special bridge on my new ESP LTD MH-330 doesn't stay in tune properly, regardless of whether or not I use the whammy bar, despite the fact that I've had it set up by my local guitar tech twice, does anyone know why this might be? Is it to be expected with a Floyd that is not an OFR? Or is my bridge faulty?
When I say it doesn't stay in tune:

When I don't use the whammy bar: It will stay in tune, but not perfectly as Floyd Rose's are (apparently) supposed to, it detunes by at least a couple of cents after a few hours of being set up
When I do use the whammy bar: Detune is very noticeable, of up to about a quarter-tone, using it for light vibrato rather than dive bombs is a little better, but not much
#2
maybe the knife edges have worn down? maybe your tech could take a look at that?
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
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#3
Dave has the right idea. It's probably a good time to learn more about your FR and disassemble it yourself and check the knife edges. Paying someone every time would be just wasting money and you will also be learning something. The Special version uses cheaper materials which could be the problem.
#4
Hmm, I don't know a lot about locking tremolo's, but would worn down knife edges explain tuning stability even when not using the whammy bar? And is it possible after only having the guitar for a few weeks?
#5
I'm more than happy to learn rather than paying someone, but I'm worried I'll screw up and break my tremolo...
#6
Quote by xtinction
I'm more than happy to learn rather than paying someone, but I'm worried I'll screw up and break my tremolo...


Take off your strings(you can also just loosen them enough), then open the back plate on your guitar. Set your guitar face down on something soft so it won't scratch anything. Then pull the springs out of the back carefully and then you will be able to take out the FR. Then check the knife edges.
Last edited by Blackfire. at Dec 8, 2013,
#7
I've got the back open, in the process of loosening the screws enough to pull the springs out. I've noticed one of the screws is much more difficult to adjust than the other, could this be a problem?
#8
Quote by xtinction
I've got the back open, in the process of loosening the screws enough to pull the springs out. I've noticed one of the screws is much more difficult to adjust than the other, could this be a problem?


No don't loosen the screws..just pull on the spring part closest to your neck to get them off. It might be a lil tough to you but you can do it. Tighten the screws to where they were orginally.
Last edited by Blackfire. at Dec 8, 2013,
#9
Considering the screws were all the way in, as in, they couldn't be tightened any more, when I started, is it not worth loosening them, the springs refusing to budge as they are at the moment
#10
Quote by xtinction
Considering the screws were all the way in, as in, they couldn't be tightened any more, when I started, is it not worth loosening them, the springs refusing to budge as they are at the moment


Can you post a pic of the back open?

You just need to pull on the spring towards the neck so you can get it over the lip that's holding it.
Last edited by Blackfire. at Dec 8, 2013,
#11



Sorry for the large pics and bad quality, only have a bad phone camera to hand.
The springs won't even go that far
Last edited by xtinction at Dec 8, 2013,
#12
If you mess with your screws you are going to throw your bridge out of whack, if you don't have them back to where they were it will not sit level.
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#14
Yeah.. the bridge is already "out of whack" though I can just tighten the screws again.
I was pulling exactly where you say to, in that direction, and it's not happening :/
Considering I need this guitar for a performance on Thursday, should I just tune back up and leave it til I can get someone to look at it and do something?
I read string stretching could help a lot, do you think this could solve my problem at all?
#15
Quote by xtinction
Yeah.. the bridge is already "out of whack" though I can just tighten the screws again.
I was pulling exactly where you say to, in that direction, and it's not happening :/
Considering I need this guitar for a performance on Thursday, should I just tune back up and leave it til I can get someone to look at it and do something?
I read string stretching could help a lot, do you think this could solve my problem at all?


If you used a tech before he should have set it up properly. Too bad you can't get the springs off, then you could troubleshoot your problem.

I gotta run for a bit, be back on here later though in case you need more help.
Last edited by Blackfire. at Dec 8, 2013,
#16
True, though I watched him do it, and literally all he did was tighten the screws a miniscule amount and go through the basic tuning process, didn't look at the intonation, springs, knife edges or anything. He said this was because it was a brand new guitar and all of that would have been taken care of by LTD. Hopefully he will have a good look at it if I explain the problems.

No worries man, thanks for your help anyway, I'll just retune and leave it alone for now until the weekend
#18
Quote by xtinction
Hmm, I don't know a lot about locking tremolo's, but would worn down knife edges explain tuning stability even when not using the whammy bar? And is it possible after only having the guitar for a few weeks?


yeah maybe- if your trem is floating it'll move even when you're doing bends etc. even if you're not using the trem.

and yeah maybe, if it's made from sufficiently inferior materials and/or especially if you've done anything which'll speed up the wear (like adjusting the height at the studs when the strings are under full tension).

EDIT: yeah if you loosen those screws it'll be a lot easier to remove the springs (and hence the trem). you can always make a note of where they originally were and put them back that way when you reassemble the trem. if you try to take them out under tension with your fingers you can hurt yourself if you're not careful

Quote by xtinction
True, though I watched him do it, and literally all he did was tighten the screws a miniscule amount and go through the basic tuning process, didn't look at the intonation, springs, knife edges or anything. He said this was because it was a brand new guitar and all of that would have been taken care of by LTD. Hopefully he will have a good look at it if I explain the problems.


that sounds like a bit of a rip, frankly. I'm no tech but I wouldn't assume that any guitar would be perfectly set up from the factory, especially a cheaper one.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Dec 9, 2013,
#19
I'm thinking that, rather than pay £30 for a setup which will most likely not completely fix my problem, I'll save up for an OFR and get it installed, and just deal with my FRS for now, even if I do end up needing to fully retune it every month or something.

Luckily, I got it setup for free, so I wasn't really ripped off, but I definitely do not think it's worth paying for a new setup. He said the intonation was already perfect when it arrived, and that the trem itself was already setup to an extent, so he didn't think there was much point redoing the whole guitar, part of that was probably because he was doing it for free, no doubt.
#20
yeah i mean if it was genuinely ok then that's fair enough. and as you said, if he didn't charge you then that's fair enough, too.

you might be able to get a schaller lockmeister for a little bit cheaper than an OFR. thomann has them for around £130. From what I hear, it's just a rebranded OFR with teh schaller stamp on it (schaller makes the OFR). Would be worth checking with schaller, though. Also you need to get the right nut, iirc the thomann ones have the 42mm nut. that might be ok for your LTD as they might be 42mm too. but again you'd want to check.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#21
So in terms of quality, durability etc. there is no difference between an OFR and a Schaller?
#22
from what i hear, the schaller lockmeister and OFR are identical, yeah, the only difference is the branding stamp. I haven't checked myself, so obviously that's hearsay. But I heard it from a Floyd Rose dealer and guitar builder here (on a forum), so... I can't say for sure it's true, but I suspect it is.

the older schaller-branded locking trem is a little different from an OFR. It's still meant to be pretty good, but it has a couple of differences between it and the OFR. I think the lockmeister came out when the patent expired on the OFR.

lockmeister (allegedly identical to OFR): http://www.thomann.de/gb/schaller_original_tremolo_lockmeister_c.htm

schaller double locking trem (different from OFR but should still be a good trem): http://www.thomann.de/gb/schaller_fr_tremolo_ii.htm (you can see how it looks a little different from an OFR)
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
Last edited by Dave_Mc at Dec 9, 2013,
#23
I'm a bit late to the party but I just want to throw in:

If you've had your trem sitting not level, the posts will just destroy the knife edges on the Special. I had one on a guitar before, the LTD M-200FM, and that was before I really understood how the FR works and how to maintain it well, and the trem lost the ability to stay in tune within about 1-1.5 years.

The Specials are not as high quality as some people claim, I would not recommend them. The knife edges are much, much harder on an OFR or Original Edge or their near derivatives.
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#24
My trem seems to be sitting level now, though I've still noticed a slight detune since I set it up (again -.-) the other night, so it won't be 100% I guess I was misinformed about how good FRS bridges are...
Is it possible to buy OFR/Schaller standard knife edges and just stick them in the FRS? WOuld it be worth it price wise?
#25
don't quote me but I don't think you can buy the knife edges separately.

I suppose you could email floyd rose and schaller to ask, just to be sure.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#26
I'd just buy a Gotoh at that point.

The saddle blocks are crappy too on the Specials.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#27
the problem is the gotoh prices have shot way up, and the studs are marginally bigger than an OFR/schaller.

5 years ago i'd probably have agreed with you. at that point they were the cheapest "good" locking trem.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#28
Well, that shows how up to date I am.

I just say Gotoh because I've personally had good experiences. But you can't really go wrong with Gotoh or Schaller or any of it. But if they're slightly off then yeah just go Schaller.
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#29
The prices may well still be good in the USA, I dunno I was just talking about here in the UK, and xtinction seems to be in the UK.

Now you mention it I should probably check the price again just in case it's changed

Yeah they're a lot more.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?