#2
its a low end guitar. itll be like a squier strat probably or at best itll be like an ibanez gio or yamaha pacifica. if you have need of a low end guitar then go ahead and buy it
My Electric Guitars:
Ibanez GSA60
Ibanez RG3EXFM1
Peavey Raptor Plus
Epiphone Les Paul Custom
Squire Telecaster Affinity (Has many famous musicians signatures so only played once)
#3
I am indeed looking for a cheap second guitar. I have an anniversary edition Epi Les Paul Custom but I can't take that on a bus to practice and i'm looking for something different like a strat style guitar.

I had heard that Samick quality might vary depending on the year?
Does anyone know the model and year of the Samick in the link I provided?
#4
i think you should go ahead and buy it. i justify any guitar purchase i make that isnt absolutely necessary if i buy it at a price that i can sell it back and recover my money at least 95%. If this turns out to have not been worth your money, you should be able to recover your money in a couple months at least
My Electric Guitars:
Ibanez GSA60
Ibanez RG3EXFM1
Peavey Raptor Plus
Epiphone Les Paul Custom
Squire Telecaster Affinity (Has many famous musicians signatures so only played once)
#6
Just an update. After getting the guitar it seems like it is certianly of higher quality than many squiers that I have played and it even seems nicer than many of the Entry level Ibanez's in the 200$-300$ range. (I haven't played many Yamaha strats so I can't comment on that).

There are better photos of it here: http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Electric-Guitars/Really-nice-Samick-Valley-Arts-strat/td-p/27712362

It plays nice (though it could use some fret work and string height adjustment) and is more of an Ibanez strat feel than a Fender.
It also weighs nearly as much as my Les paul.

For 60$ I think it's more than I could have hoped for and there isn't any sort of massive difference in quality between it and my main guitar.

Anyways, that's just my 2 cents, I didn't want someone reading this in the future to think that it's similar to a bottom of the line Squier.
Last edited by MikJ2 at Jan 3, 2014,
#7
$60 good deal I would have bought it. Wilkinson trems are good and the tuners seem decent as well. slap some better pups in it and you'll have a nice back up guitar
#8
I'm not really one to go chasing the "perfect" sound with pickup changes.
It's so subjective and the ones in the Samick are versatile enough to get a decent tone out of.
#9
Quote by MikJ2
Just an update. After getting the guitar it seems like it is certianly of higher quality than many squiers that I have played and it even seems nicer than many of the Entry level Ibanez's in the 200$-300$ range. (I haven't played many Yamaha strats so I can't comment on that).

There are better photos of it here: http://www.harmonycentral.com/t5/Electric-Guitars/Really-nice-Samick-Valley-Arts-strat/td-p/27712362

It plays nice (though it could use some fret work and string height adjustment) and is more of an Ibanez strat feel than a Fender.
It also weighs nearly as much as my Les paul.

For 60$ I think it's more than I could have hoped for and there isn't any sort of massive difference in quality between it and my main guitar.

Anyways, that's just my 2 cents, I didn't want someone reading this in the future to think that it's similar to a bottom of the line Squier.


Is that the actual guitar or just a similar model? It's a nice guitar but the guy wants $330 for it.
#10
As far as I can tell it is the same model. The harmony central ad just has cleaner pictures than the kijiji ad for the one I bought.
#11
Samick and other guitar corporations in Korea such as Cort, make good guitars. A lot of companies like Epiphone, Samick ran an OEM factory for them very long time. (but closed few years ago)
#12
So the action on it is a little high, but the action adjustment on the Wilkinson bridge looks to be as low as it will go.
Do I need to purchase different parts for the bridge that will hold the strings lower?
#13
Quote by MikJ2
So the action on it is a little high, but the action adjustment on the Wilkinson bridge looks to be as low as it will go.
Do I need to purchase different parts for the bridge that will hold the strings lower?


You can do a couple things to fix that. It really quite easy once you get through the process a time or two.

1) You could adjust the truss rod (tighten) a bit. If the truss rod is already cranked down then shim the neck. You can only adjust the truss rod so much or it will straighten your neck too much. You want a little bow in it (relief).

2) Loosen your strings, unbolt the neck and carefully lift it out. This is not as hard as it sounds. Put a shim (half a business card folded in half again) in the back of the neck pocket and then re-attach the neck. Tighten your strings and check the action. Readjust your action if necessary. You may be able to then loosen the truss rod or just raise your bridge saddles.

Many bolt-on necks need a shim to get good action. You can get your action only so low. I usually go for 4/64" on my guitars. I can live with that.
Last edited by Virgman at Jan 6, 2014,
#14
It seems so obvious now that you mention it. Having only adjusted set neck guitars in the past I would never have thought of it though.

I did the first fret and last fret test for the neck bend/truss rod and it looks like slightly less space than a credit card width in between the neck and middle frets. So maybe it could be slightly straighter but isn't currently all that bad?
#15
Why the Hell can't you take an Epiphone on the bus?

I used to ride my motorbike down the motorway with a R9 strapped to my back.
#16
If you got it for 60.00 Id say that's a good deal. Getting any guitar that actually plays for less then 100.00 is probably a good purchase for using as a travel guitar.
Just another Sheep in the design of the Almighty Machine.


-GEAR-
Gibson 60s Les Paul Tribute (Sunburst)
1999 Ibanez RG470 (TitaniumIce-MIJ)
Jackson RR3 (Trans-Red)
Peavey 6505+
Podx3
#17
Quote by MikJ2
It seems so obvious now that you mention it. Having only adjusted set neck guitars in the past I would never have thought of it though.

I did the first fret and last fret test for the neck bend/truss rod and it looks like slightly less space than a credit card width in between the neck and middle frets. So maybe it could be slightly straighter but isn't currently all that bad?


If you hold the low E down at the first and last fret you can tap the string and if you get a slight click the relief is good. So next step might be to put a shim in there. You don't need much. There might be a shim in there already. Hopefully not. That's what is great about bolt-on necks. You can really do things to adjust them. Make sure your strings are lined up correctly on the fretboard when you re-install the neck.

I have shims in all my strats.
Last edited by Virgman at Jan 6, 2014,
#18
Quote by Mephaphil
Why the Hell can't you take an Epiphone on the bus?

I used to ride my motorbike down the motorway with a R9 strapped to my back.



It's my first guitar and it's the 50th anniversary edition Epihone Les Paul Custom. I would hate to lose it/have it stolen.


I did the shimming with the width of three business cards and it feels close to where I want it.
I would have used another card's width but it was already difficult enough to get everything back together in a stable/solid manner.

I also have a few sharp frets sticking up out of the binding at the edges, what's the best way to deal with those?
Last edited by MikJ2 at Jan 8, 2014,
#19
Quote by MikJ2
It's my first guitar and it's the 50th anniversary edition Epihone Les Paul Custom. I would hate to lose it/have it stolen.


I did the shimming with the width of three business cards and it feels close to where I want it.
I would have used another card's width but it was already difficult enough to get everything back together in a stable/solid manner.

I also have a few sharp frets sticking up out of the binding at the edges, what's the best way to deal with those?


If the guitar has stabilized in your temperature and humidity and you have sharp fret ends you can mask off the wood area on the neck with masking tape and carefully file the frets ends with a small file and/or buff with some emery cloth. Be careful and patient and protect the wood.
Last edited by Virgman at Jan 9, 2014,
#20
Basically the frets aren't right on the fretboard at the ends, leaving a gap between the bottom of the fret and the fret board at the edge of the neck.
#22
Yeah, I wouldn't want to ask guitar related questions on a guitar forum