#1
So i was playing the other day and my amp started smoking. lol. how do i fix this it was coming from the left side where the power cord connects to the head, i checked the fuse didnt look bad. i imgaine something melted inside…ive heard of this happening before and someone mentioned someting about having to hardwire a piece to fix the problem. any links or suggestions walk throughs?
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#2


Page 1 of the Bugera Users Militia Thread has an explanation and fix for the transformer connection issue if that is what you are referring to. The Bugera thread is on page 2 I think currently but otherwise can be found in the Rules and Resources Sticky.

I'd take it to a tech if I were you.
Last edited by 311ZOSOVHJH at Jan 4, 2014,
#4
ok is just a matter of soldering the wires to the board? or does it really need a tech? if so what can i expect to pay for the fix?
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#5
Quote by OurRequiem
ok is just a matter of soldering the wires to the board? or does it really need a tech? if so what can i expect to pay for the fix?

Yes you solder them directly to the board like the pic. This may not be the whole problem and if not you need to take it to a tech.

DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING ELSE IN THE AMP you can potentially die from the voltage stored in the amp
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#6
Quote by Robbgnarly
Yes you solder them directly to the board like the pic. This may not be the whole problem and if not you need to take it to a tech.

DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING ELSE IN THE AMP you can potentially die from the voltage stored in the amp



haha of course! i wouldnt do that. plus id be working on it unplugged.

heres something i noticed tho. i took my amp to be re biased to take 6l6's in place of the stock el34's, at a a local music because i didnt wanna kill myself trying on my own, theres a little switch right next to the tubes that reads "6l6" and "el34" and the switch was on el34. im not sure how much this actually matters as i had the work done probably a year ago now and its been working fine up until she started a blaze.
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#7
It does not mater if the amp is unplugged or not. The capacitors store lethal voltages months to years after the amp is not plugged in or even used.
You might have fried a few resistors in the amp and with out looking at it

Take it to a tech if the molex connecter is not the issue
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Last edited by Robbgnarly at Jan 4, 2014,
#8
Quote by Robbgnarly
It does not mater if the amp is unplugged or not. The capacitors store lethal voltages months to years after the amp is not plugged in or even used.
You might have fried a few resistors in the amp and with out looking at it

Take it to a tech if the molex connecter is not the issue



hmm did not know that. thanks for the advice!
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#9
And the Tech messed up by not setting the amp to 6L6. You should take it some where else if they messed up a trivial thing such as flipping a highly visible switch labeled EL34/6L6 I'd put money that that is what caused the problem.

You'll probably need a new set of tubes also
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#10
are there any guides to fixing this, and maybe pictures of where the capitors are located and things like that? ive got solder and a gun and ive fixed a few guitars with it here and there nothing major. and while im at it are there any guides on how to fix the high input jack? the front snapped off somehow and it wont hold a cord and ive been using the low gain ever since. oh and maybe how to fix the blue lights…..my amps a little ****ed up…lol its been thru alot, id like to just get it all done it one shotand save a few dollars doing it myself, assuming theres nothing else fried in it other than that plastic clip. but id still like to fix the input jack and lights ethier way.

Also does it matter that the switch for the bias is on el34 and theres 6l6's in the amp? i brought it to a shop to have it re biased for the 6l6's because it uses el34 stock, but just noticed for the first time the switch is on the wrong setting for the tubes in it. could the guy have just re biased from whatever it was already in? im not experienced in that stuff so i know not much there sorry haha
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#11
Quote by Robbgnarly
And the Tech messed up by not setting the amp to 6L6. You should take it some where else if they messed up a trivial thing such as flipping a highly visible switch labeled EL34/6L6 I'd put money that that is what caused the problem.

You'll probably need a new set of tubes also



didnt see this before my other post. DAMNIT. what an idiot should have just done that myself too.
-Peavey 6505+
-Bugera 333xl(w/6l6 pt's) -dead
-412 X-pattern loaded w/ WGS veteran30s & HM75s
-Gibson Les Paul, SD Blackouts *being worked on back to stock*
-Jackson DR7, EMGs
-LTD MH417
-Peavey Vyper 75w
#12
It will probably cost as much to fix the amp as the amp is worth used and a new set of tubes will most likely put you over what the amp is worth.

I had a 333 head and I had it serviced several times, but I was lucky my brother-n-law is an EE or I would have trashed it. I sold it fully functional with new tubes in it for $175 and that was after months of Clist advertising for $250

Unless you can read schematics, can properly drain the caps and have a good solder gun, I would not advise you mess with it. You really can get seriously hurt. If you do go poking around in it, use a wooden chopstick and keep your other hand behind your back.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate