#1
I am trying to come up with a wiring diagram for a project i was trying to finish and I ran into some problems.

I am going for an HSH setup with 2 push pull volume controls, the first one controlling the neck and middle volumes and the second to control the bridge. The switch would split the hum bucker of each respected pot. I want the third pot to be this TBX tone control mod I found on the bottom of the following page:

https://sites.google.com/site/phoste...x-tone-control

When drawing this up I basically followed this diagram that i found except i replaced the regular tone control with TBX mod and used 2 hum buckers instead of 3 single coils.

http://www.briggsguitars.com/www/ima...at_JSeaval.PDF

My concerns are the following

1. The above diagram is for 3 single coils, I am not certain that the output of the humbuckers can be wired the same way and get the same results.
2. If the TBX mod will still function correctly since this diagram has no input going into the pot but on the original diagram for the mod it has an input
3. If this diagram will allow me to take advantage of the two volume controls and be able to blend the sound of the pickups similarly to the middle position of a les paul type guitar.
4. I would like to add a DPDT switch that would activate the neck pickup in any switch position effectivly adding two more combinations to the usual 5, one with all three pickups active and one with only the neck and bridge active. Like above I would like to be able to use the 2 volume pots to blend together the different pickups. I'm really only specifically interested in being able to blend the neck and the bridge together.

I will include the diagram I drew up including everything besides the DPDT switch. (sorry it is very messy) I seem have to gotten myself in way over my head on this one and I don't want to wire it up and have it end up not working correctly. If anyone could check it over or make the necessary additions to make this work that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Attachments:
Wiring Diagram6.jpg
#2
You're right. That is messy. Makes it hard to read. If one wants someone to proofread their diagram, it follows that they would put some effort into making it. Makes my job a lot easier... I'm not intending to be hateful here, btw.

I'm going to look at this later (I'm on my phone now and it is very early in the morning).
#3
I'm sorry about that, I was in a big rush last night putting it together. I am going to try and redo it today. The diagram I made is exactly like the second link I posted above except I replaced the tone control with the TBX mod and I added humbuckers with coil splits. It would probably be a lot easier for you all to just follow that diagram except keep in mind those differences.
Last edited by Steelrz13 at Jan 8, 2014,
#4
I have remade my wiring diagram and I think things are much more clear now.

A few things were added to this one. I added a treble bleed mod to each of the volume pots, along with a 470k resistor that will basically turn the 500k pot into a 250k pot when I split the humbuckers. The final addition is the switch to turn on the neck in any positions.

I would like to have somebody more experienced check this over and make sure everything will work properly like I described in my first post.
Attachments:
The Wiring diagram2.jpg
#5
After studying the diagram some more I think that the TBX tone control would have to be wired with the output from the switch connecting to the outer lug and then the center lug going out to the tip of the jack.

Here is a modified sketch.
Attachments:
The Wiring diagram4.jpg
#6
Here's the diagram.
http://i40.tinypic.com/33afmgg.jpg

And here's the schematic version.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2ajau06.jpg

That ought to do the trick.

There are a couple of small issues though. First, the resistor in the treble bleed circuit isn't really needed. The mod is only effective when the volume is rolled down anyway. Having the resistor will change the taper of the pot. As the volume is rolled down it will also change the value of the pot depending on where the wiper is set.

Slapping a 470k across the outer pot terminals will also change the taper and depending on where the wiper is, may or may not change the value. The better way to do it would be to use 2 resistors of approximately 1/4 the value of the pot (270k is close enough) wired in series across the outer terminals with their junction wired to the wiper.

If it were me, I would omit the 470k and 150k resistors and wire the switch for series/parallel rather than coil splitting. That way it will still be hum-cancelling and imho sound more like a single coil than just splitting.
Last edited by Invader Jim at Jan 8, 2014,
#7
Thats some good advice and i'll definitely give it some thought and probably change things a little. After looking at your diagram I see a couple problems. The first being that the only I see the neck being able to be on is if the SPDT switch is in the one position. In the other position the switch will disconnect the neck Pickup from the selector switch and it wont function like a standard 5 way switch. I could be wrong but this is just the way I am seeing it.

Maybe I Was unclear with my explanation and that caused some confusion so let me explain things again. In one position of the SPDT switch I would like the 5 way to function like a standard 5 way switch, that being combinations of neck, neck middle, middle, middle bridge, and bridge. In the other position the SPDT switch would be used to bypass the 5 way and activate the neck PU regardless of the position on the 5 way switch. This would give give me two more combinations on top of the usual 5. Those being all three pickups active when the 5 way is in the regular middle and bridge position, and the neck and bridge PU active in the regular bridge position.

To sum it up: When the SPDT switched to the one position I would like the 5 way to function normally when switched to the other I would like it have neck always on bypassing the 5 way.

The second problem I found is very minor. I believe you simply forgot to put a wire connecting the middle lug of the bridge volume to the selector switch. You put a black dot on the bridge terminal of the selector switch indicating to me you meant to make the connection but mistakingly left it out.

Also I see that you wired the TBX control on the opposite lug that i had it on. Is there a reason for that and wouldn't that reverse the way I would have to turn the control to cut the frequencies?
Last edited by Steelrz13 at Jan 9, 2014,
#8
Ah, crap, you're right. I forgot to wire the bridge pickup to the switch lug. There was a lot going on and I guess I just missed it.

I also forgot about the second pole of the switch so the neck-on switch won't work in the bridge-only position.

Let me look at this some more... Brb...

edit: I am having an off day.
Last edited by Invader Jim at Jan 9, 2014,
#9
Your idea to change the value of the volume pots with the two in series resistors seems pretty cool but I can't really figure out how it would change the value differently and give better results. Could you explain your take on the mod to me? I like to be able to understand what is actually going on and why that would work a posed to mine.

Also to implement that into a switch I would wire each outer terminal with a resistor connected to the middle lugs of the switch and a cross connection from one of the middle lugs to the bottom lug on the other side. I would then take a wire from one of the lugs involved in the cross connection and connect it the middle lug of the volume pot?
#10
Quote by Invader Jim
Ah, crap, you're right. I forgot to wire the bridge pickup to the switch lug. There was a lot going on and I guess I just missed it.

I also forgot about the second pole of the switch so the neck-on switch won't work in the bridge-only position.

Let me look at this some more... Brb...

edit: I am having an off day.

Don't sweat it, it was very minor and luckily I was at least knowledgable enough to catch it.
#11
Here is the corrected schematic (hopefully).
http://i40.tinypic.com/20hk475.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/294kmxi.jpg

The reason you split the resistor is because a pot's resistance is not fixed. In the case of a volume pot, with the pot all the way up this will work fine. A 500k pot with a 470k resistor in parallel will look like a 240k resistor. But as you roll down the pot the resistance changes. It all depends on the source and load resistances. I've seen it done like this in some circuits so I guess you could still try it.

This article is a good read if you haven't seen it yet. It may help explain things.
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm
#12
As far as I can tell everything seems to be good now. I was hoping to be able to use a SPDT switch instead of DPDT because I've got on one hand but I see why I can't do that now. With my diagram when I would try to activate the neck in the bridge position nothing would happen because the volume pot outputs back to the neck terminal of the 5-way switch. It would only work to activate all three pickups. Thanks for spotting that along with all of my other mistakes. You've been a big help.

After listening to some videos and hearing your input I think I'm convinced to try series/parallel. If I do decide to try it out and follow the digram on the bottom link and use this mod for the neck and bridge PU, would i simply connect the output to where it went without the series/parallel wiring?

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=ssp