#1
Hey guys,
I'm planning to give my Squier Strat an overhaul. It currently looks a bit like this (albeit with the big headstock and it already has black tuners):

I'm planning to make it look like this:


I'll be replacing the bridge PU with a Duncan Hot Rails, but the majority of work is with the body.
The scratchplate on mine is made from Dibond, so just attacking it with steel wool and sandpaper until the finish starts wearing should do the trick.

The real problem is the body, or more the paint on it. The way that I imagine doing it is this:
Sand the whole body to near bare wood (has a couple of layers on it already), prime it, then paint it with a metal effect paint. One that has a few good layers, go over it in one direction to give it a metal "grain" type look. After that, I'd give it a thin coat of matt black paint. Once that's fully dry, I'll attack it with sand paper, wire brushes and as many other torturous implements I can find to give it a battered and patchy black finish. After that, I'd give it a dusting of weathering and rust powders, then clearcoat it.

My problems are with the paints/laquers used or rather which paints/laquers.
The last time I painted it with car paint (Rover Flame Red - If you were wondering), it never really hardened. It's still quite soft and pressing my nail into it leaves a mark, and that's after clear coat. I was thinking about using Humbrol Acrylic model paints (aerosol) because they're readily available. Specifically, I was thinking of Metalcote sprays. They come in 150ml cans, so I could probably use 2 for the body. After that, give it a coat of Humbrol Matt Black Acrylic followed by loads of weathering, then a few layers of Humbrol Enamel Matt varnish.

I'm in the UK, so I'm limited to things I can buy here. I also don't want to spend stupid money on it.
Is there anything inherently wrong with my choices?
I'd appreciate any help
Thanks
#2
I really like using acrylic lacquer and it hardens just fine. a lot of automotive paint is acrylic lacquer or enamel (which stays really soft).
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#3
I would just scuff sand instead of sanding down to the wood, prime, colorcoat with the metal flake, clearcoat, wait a day, add the matte Black, clearcoat, wait a day, sand down to the metal/flake paint, clear, add the rust powder, clearcoat. I'd use Acrylic spraycan for the primer, colorcoat, and clearcoat.

Avoid Enamel if you want it fast.