#1
Hi everyone, and sorry if this has been asked many times, but I have a LTD MH1000 that I have owned for around 3 years. I tried to do a setup at first myself, truss rod adjustment, bridge, action so forth, and it was better, but still not completely there, alot of fret buzz, not through the amp though.

I have noticed the buzz is worse now though, And when pressing the strings at the 24th and first fret, at the 12th fret there is no clearance at all, the string is touching the frets.

So, do you think it is worth me taking it for a set up at my local (privately owned, not a big chain) guitar store. They said its £30 to have everything set.

Will I notice a difference with a real set up, or not really?

Probably a dumb question, go easy on me

Thanks, Conan.
#2
It sounds like a bit more string relief is needed. The truss rod's too tight.
If you pay for the pro setup, watch it being done and ask questions if you can. Get an education as well as the setup. Guitar setup can be learned on line from You-Tube, etc.. Get the setup done once and you will know if it's worth it, and how to do it yourself.
#3
A really good guitar tech is like found gold. Rare but worth the search.
"Your sound is in your hands as much as anything. It's the way you pick, and the way you hold the guitar, more than it is the amp or the guitar you use." -- Stevie Ray Vaughan

"Anybody can play. The note is only 20 percent. The attitude of the motherfucker who plays it is 80 percent." -- Miles Davis

Guthrie on tone: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmohdG9lLqY
#4
OK, thanks for replies. If its just neck relief, I can do a truss rod adjustment myself yes? I did when I first bought the guitar and got it to my liking, just wondered if going to a pro was worth it.

EDIT- And to add relief, which way do I turn? I have a ESP LTD MH1000, I guess it's to the counterclockwise yes?
Last edited by conanwarrior at Mar 11, 2014,
#5
Quote by conanwarrior
EDIT- And to add relief, which way do I turn? I have a ESP LTD MH1000, I guess it's to the counterclockwise yes?

Which way did you overturn it? Since your truss rod is too tight, loosen it. The answer should be self-evident to you.
#6
Yes, you need to loosen the trussrod so lefty loosey or counterclockwise. Remember small turns, like 1/8 MAX and let it sit for an hour then check again. Also make sure you are checking the relief at the tuning and gauge you want to play with since the tension of the strings is what pulls against the trussrod and vice versa, at least I would since you have to make an adjustment anyway.
Guitars:
Jackson Kelly KE3 - MIJ (Distortion/Jazz)
Jackson DKMGT Dinky (EMG 81/85)
ESP E-II Eclipse Custom (JB/'59)
ESP LTD EC-1001FR (EMG 81/60)
Fender MIM Strat

Amps:
Mesa/Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster 212
Laney IronHeart IRT-Studio
Peavey Vypyr 30
Peavey ReValver Amp Sims
TOOOO many T.C. Electronic Pedals. . .
#7
Quote by crazysam23_Atax
Which way did you overturn it? Since your truss rod is too tight, loosen it. The answer should be self-evident to you.


Sorry if there is misunderstanding, I never did over tighten, Its just recently I have noticed it after getting back into guitar. If my wording or spelling is bad please tell me, I had a brain injury and am a recovering alcoholic, so sometimes may not be coherent.
#8
Quote by metalmingee
Yes, you need to loosen the trussrod so lefty loosey or counterclockwise. Remember small turns, like 1/8 MAX and let it sit for an hour then check again. Also make sure you are checking the relief at the tuning and gauge you want to play with since the tension of the strings is what pulls against the trussrod and vice versa, at least I would since you have to make an adjustment anyway.


Thanks mate, thought it was lefty loosey, but read an article about dual action truss rods that was saying they tighten/loosen the OTHER way. I thought the MH1000 has a dual action, that is why I asked .
#9
All truss rods (and in fact, everything ever) are left = loose, right = tight.

It sounds to me like you simply have unrealistic expectations about how low the action can go. A professional tech could do a full set up, but there is no magic technique they can do which will do something you can't do yourself. There is a guitar set up thread stickied at the top of this forum which explains how to do basic set up. You can also find many, many videos about it on YouTube. All you need is the right size allen key to adjust the truss rod, a way of measuring the string height and the right kind of screwdriver to move the bridge up and down.
The fact is, strings need a certain amount of room to vibrate when they are plucked. Too little room and they hit the top of other frets, making buzz. That room is the minimum action you can get. Usually this is a gap of about 2mm between the bottom of the strings and the top of the frets, at the 12th fret.
However, it does depend on the strings you are using and the tuning you use. Thicker strings require more room and lower tunings also require more room. If you want the lowest action possible, you need to switch to lighter strings and/or only play in E Standard. Some very light strings and E Standard tuning can make do with as little as about 1.2mm gap. Very thick strings or very low tunings may need as much as a 3mm or even 3.5mm gap.

Do bear in mind that a little buzz doesn't matter much if it can't actually be heard through the amplifier. Most people who want very low action put up with there being a little bit of buzz. I wouldn't worry about it unless strings are buzzing so much it can actually be heard through the amplifier, or if strings are 'fretting out' and being stopped from vibrating completely.
Yes, I know everything. No, I can't play worth a damn.
A child is trafficked and sold for sex slavery every 30 seconds. Support Love146.
Last edited by MrFlibble at Mar 23, 2014,
#10
^ not always, my dads '67 GTX had left tighten/right loosen lug nuts on it

but yes most things are right tight, left loose
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#11
I did not read all the other posts, but I have a MH-400. I have had a problem with fret buzz/rattle for years. Usually I can minimize it but it always seemed like it was just impossible to get rid of.

I was messing with tuning down a full step and switched to heavy bottom/skinny top strings for some stuff I was playing. Did a set up (Floyd-rose take time) and then later tuned up to flat (half step) and all buzz went away? I have a hard time getting it to rattle/buzz on the frets.

Now I can not see or measure a difference in the bow. Too small to see? I used 10's before switching to the 10-11 heavy bottom/skinny top, I know it is a little more tension, but the adjustments should not matter.

Look up the specs and follow them, or have it setup by a pro and make sure it is right.

Loosen Counter-clockwise if back bowed
Tighten clockwise if under-bowed (too much bow)
EDIT - (NO MORE than 1/4 turn)

Good Luck
Last edited by Chevywizz at Mar 23, 2014,
#12
You'd be amazed at the difference in tension between tunings, even just a half step. The difference between string gauges also adds up, even if you're ''only'' moving to a slightly heavier gauge. Tuning up that extra half step will have pulled the neck in further, increasing the bow of the neck.
Yes, I know everything. No, I can't play worth a damn.
A child is trafficked and sold for sex slavery every 30 seconds. Support Love146.
#13
To it to a tech and ask to watch. Any decent tech won't have an issue walking you through a basic one. It'll be worth the money just to watch someone who's good with setups do it so you can see it done a time or two.

It is definitely worth your time and money to learn to do it yourself. I applaud you for striving to be self sufficient!
OBEY THE MIGHTY SHITKICKER