#1
I bought a new MIM strat yesterday and the first thing I did was put new strings on it (they are Ernie Balls regular slinkys). After that the bridge has risen up so it's poking out of the body of the guitar like in the photos I attached. What have I done? I don't know how to fix it.
Attachments:
2.jpg
1.jpg
#2
Maybe the springs in the back somehow came loose?


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#3
Quote by Linkerman
Maybe the springs in the back somehow came loose?



Okay, I will try unscrewing the top and having a look, how can I fix them if they have?
#4
It looks like the new strings you put on were a heavier gauge than what was on there before.

This is completely normal for floating tremolos.

Floating tremolos operate via simple physics. The springs in the back counteract the tension of the strings. When you put on heavier strings, you need to increase the spring tension in the back to compensate.

You do this by screwing the trem claw (the metal part that the spring holes are hooked on) further into the guitar.

And it works vice versa as well. If you put on lighter strings, your bridge will sink down, and you need to unscrew your trem claw to relieve spring tension and get it back to balance again.
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#5
Quote by Offworld92
It looks like the new strings you put on were a heavier gauge than what was on there before.

This is completely normal for floating tremolos.

Floating tremolos operate via simple physics. The springs in the back counteract the tension of the strings. When you put on heavier strings, you need to increase the spring tension in the back to compensate.

You do this by screwing the trem claw (the metal part that the spring holes are hooked on) further into the guitar.

And it works vice versa as well. If you put on lighter strings, your bridge will sink down, and you need to unscrew your trem claw to relieve spring tension and get it back to balance again.

Phew okay, does that mean this will be quite simple to sort out? How do you know how much to adjust the trem claw by?
#6
It is extremely simple, however if you haven't done it before, it can take some time.

Try not to get stressed out or frustrated. Just remember and understand what's going on. You're balancing your spring tension and string tension.

There's no real way to know exactly how much to adjust it. Just give each screw a few turns and go from there.

Also, you'll likely have to retune multiple times. I don't know how bad it is for non-locking trems like yours, as I usually set up Floyd Rose style trems which you have to retune dozens of times over the course of a set up from scratch. Yours probably won't be that bad. But just be warned that it may happen, and don't let it frustrate you.

I've done it so much that I can pretty much eyeball the thing and know how many turns I need to give it, and pretty much always get it right in one or two adjustments.

You just gotta get in there, learn how to do it by actually doing it. Keep at it and eventually it'll be like nothing.

Good luck
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#7
Quote by Offworld92
It is extremely simple, however if you haven't done it before, it can take some time.

Try not to get stressed out or frustrated. Just remember and understand what's going on. You're balancing your spring tension and string tension.

There's no real way to know exactly how much to adjust it. Just give each screw a few turns and go from there.

Also, you'll likely have to retune multiple times. I don't know how bad it is for non-locking trems like yours, as I usually set up Floyd Rose style trems which you have to retune dozens of times over the course of a set up from scratch. Yours probably won't be that bad. But just be warned that it may happen, and don't let it frustrate you.

I've done it so much that I can pretty much eyeball the thing and know how many turns I need to give it, and pretty much always get it right in one or two adjustments.

You just gotta get in there, learn how to do it by actually doing it. Keep at it and eventually it'll be like nothing.

Good luck

Thanks so much! I was really worried I'd something irreversible LOL. So on the photo Linkerman posted, is the trem claw the metal part at the top with the two screws in it? And all I have to do is tighten the screws until the bridge is in the right position? Also, it doesn't seem to be staying in tune very well at the moment, is that due to this?
#8
Yes it's the metal "claw" at the top with the two screws in it.

No, you don't want to do that. Your spring tension and string tension sort of work together. When you tighten your claw in, that will bring your bridge down and raise your string tension (raise your tuning). That means you have to tune your strings down to get them in tune. So if you screw your trem claw in to make the bridge level, your strings will be tuned super high, and you'll have to tune them down, which will lower your bridge down too much.

What you want to do is try to guesstimate and screw in the trem claw enough so that the bridge goes down a little bit, then retune your strings to do the rest of the work.

Like I said before, just give each screw a couple turns, retune the guitar, and see where you're at.

It's a process. It's not something you can just do once and be good to go. You have to do, check, do check, etc..
Spin 'round carousel when your horse isn't screwed in.

My band:
Fractured Instinct
(For fans of Death/Groove/Prog Metal)

Ibanez RGA42E
Ibanez S420
LTD H-301
Ibanez RG520
Peavey Predator USA
Douglas Grendel 725
Line 6 Pod HD500X
#9
Quote by Offworld92
Yes it's the metal "claw" at the top with the two screws in it.

No, you don't want to do that. Your spring tension and string tension sort of work together. When you tighten your claw in, that will bring your bridge down and raise your string tension (raise your tuning). That means you have to tune your strings down to get them in tune. So if you screw your trem claw in to make the bridge level, your strings will be tuned super high, and you'll have to tune them down, which will lower your bridge down too much.

What you want to do is try to guesstimate and screw in the trem claw enough so that the bridge goes down a little bit, then retune your strings to do the rest of the work.

Like I said before, just give each screw a couple turns, retune the guitar, and see where you're at.

It's a process. It's not something you can just do once and be good to go. You have to do, check, do check, etc..


Okay, I see what you mean, thanks so much for your help.
#10
When switching to a heavier gauge, I usually open the spring cavity, loosen the strings, loosen the spring claw, put a block between the body of the guitar and the sustain block so that the trem is leveled, tune up the strings to pitch and then screw in the spring claw just until the block is ready to fall out. That'll get you closer faster. After that, a minor retune should have you on the money.
#11
Quote by Offworld92
.

Just an extra thought, will the guitar be okay with heavier strings in the same tuning or will that put too much pressure on the neck? I thought as these were regular strings they would be okay.
#12
Quote by fhdkh
Just an extra thought, will the guitar be okay with heavier strings in the same tuning or will that put too much pressure on the neck? I thought as these were regular strings they would be okay.


Take a picture of the pack of strings you used. It should be fine, unless you accidentally grabbed acoustic strings or something.

I only recommend up to 10s for standard tuning on a strat scale length. 11s usually feel a bit too tight for most people.
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#13
Quote by Guy_Mitchell
Take a picture of the pack of strings you used. It should be fine, unless you accidentally grabbed acoustic strings or something.

I only recommend up to 10s for standard tuning on a strat scale length. 11s usually feel a bit too tight for most people.


http://www.rockemmusic.com/files/ernie%20ball%202221.jpg

This is a picture from google images, that's the pack I used.
Okay, hopefully it should be alright. I adjusted the trem claw and it's much better now, the bridge isn't quite parallel with the body but the screws on the claw got really tight.
#14
Quote by fhdkh
http://www.rockemmusic.com/files/ernie%20ball%202221.jpg

This is a picture from google images, that's the pack I used.
Okay, hopefully it should be alright. I adjusted the trem claw and it's much better now, the bridge isn't quite parallel with the body but the screws on the claw got really tight.


That's fine, I think I'm wrong but I think Fender's spec says an 1/8th of an inch should be between the back of the tremolo plate and the body.

HNGD

That's a nice finish on your strat.
I'm always screwing with my rig. Muh chilluns:
Warmoth NRFR strat JB/Jazz
Mesa Boogie Royal Atlantic, Diezel 2x12
Turbo tuner, J Cantrell wah, Alesis 3630
Green Rhino, Wampler Velvet, Strymon ElCap/Lex, Phase 45
#15
Quote by Guy_Mitchell
That's fine, I think I'm wrong but I think Fender's spec says an 1/8th of an inch should be between the back of the tremolo plate and the body.

HNGD

That's a nice finish on your strat.


Oh nice! That's pretty close then. Thanks.
#16
offworld nailed it

and yeah don't worry it's a very simple and completely reversible fix
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