#1
So I have been doing my own fretwork for about 8 or 9 months now and though my quality isn't that great I can at least do a little better than what you get on a typical Squier Affinity stratocaster if I had to compare it to something. I know exactly where I need improvement but I am still unsure about some things. Something I have been very curious about is weather I should start from the upper frets or the low frets when checking for unlevel frets.
#3
Well I do it all except refretting so far, getting to that soon for m GSZ120. I use a bastard file for leveling though, covers nearly the full length of the board and does great, then I go over it with a fret rocker and a file to find any spots that might have been missed. But as the great master of building explorers you know that sometimes its just a couple of frets that needs to be hit and I was not sure if I should start at the nut side or bridge side of the fretboard. Also whenever I find a high spot, I file just that single spot and I take my time not to file too much, but even then I still end up having to go down almost the entire length of the board for every fret in the same path as the fret I origionally filed. I dont think im filing too far cause I only run the file on the spot once and recheck only stopping the second the fret rocker no longer rocks anymore. Gets so aggrivating that at times I swear that there is a gremlin filing my frets when im not looking, I think its the same one that took all my Jazz 3 plecs.
#5
The file is actually pretty flat, I went through a stack of about 15 of them at Sears to find the best one and ive matched it up against my notched straight edge I got from Neck Check. The only part of the file that didnt sit flat against the straight edge was a part that curved away from the side I use and its the smooth part that has no grit.
#7
Know of any cheaper options? Stewmac is out of the question, no doubt that the tools are top quality but even if I had the spare cash I can't make myself pay $50 or $75 for a bar, that's just crazy.
#10
#11
That'd be plenty long. You can also just use a radius sanding blocks (I use an 8") with paper if you know your radius
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
#12
Ive thought about radiused blocked before but I work on multiple instruments with different radius on each one.