So I have been doing my own fretwork for about 8 or 9 months now and though my quality isn't that great I can at least do a little better than what you get on a typical Squier Affinity stratocaster if I had to compare it to something. I know exactly where I need improvement but I am still unsure about some things. Something I have been very curious about is weather I should start from the upper frets or the low frets when checking for unlevel frets.
Well I do it all except refretting so far, getting to that soon for m GSZ120. I use a bastard file for leveling though, covers nearly the full length of the board and does great, then I go over it with a fret rocker and a file to find any spots that might have been missed. But as the great master of building explorers you know that sometimes its just a couple of frets that needs to be hit and I was not sure if I should start at the nut side or bridge side of the fretboard. Also whenever I find a high spot, I file just that single spot and I take my time not to file too much, but even then I still end up having to go down almost the entire length of the board for every fret in the same path as the fret I origionally filed. I dont think im filing too far cause I only run the file on the spot once and recheck only stopping the second the fret rocker no longer rocks anymore. Gets so aggrivating that at times I swear that there is a gremlin filing my frets when im not looking, I think its the same one that took all my Jazz 3 plecs.
The file is actually pretty flat, I went through a stack of about 15 of them at Sears to find the best one and ive matched it up against my notched straight edge I got from Neck Check. The only part of the file that didnt sit flat against the straight edge was a part that curved away from the side I use and its the smooth part that has no grit.
Know of any cheaper options? Stewmac is out of the question, no doubt that the tools are top quality but even if I had the spare cash I can't make myself pay $50 or $75 for a bar, that's just crazy.
That'd be plenty long. You can also just use a radius sanding blocks (I use an 8") with paper if you know your radius
Just call me Julius, J, etc.
Taking an Internet break for a while, will come on when I can.
Ive thought about radiused blocked before but I work on multiple instruments with different radius on each one.