#1
So I'm going for a pretty whacky custom strat. After I get all the parts I'm going to have it put together by this really awesome luthier I have contact with. In the meantime, I want to make sure I have all the parts I'll need and everything will come together nicely; I've never used Warmoth before. So far, here is what my order looks like:
Custom Body
Model: STRATOCASTER® Scale: 25-1/2 IN. Chambered: YES Orientation: RIGHT HANDED $0.00 Wood: Core: MAHOGANY $217.00 Front Laminate: MAHOGANY $75.00 Control Cavity: TOP ROUT$0.00 Pickup Rout: STRAT®, STRAT®, HUMBUCKER$0.00 Control Routing: NONE Bridge Type: TREMOLO$0.00 Bridge Rout: RECESSED ORIGINAL FLOYD TREMOLO$0.00 Jack Rout: STRAT® TOP JACK ROUT Neck Pocket: STRAT® SHAPE$0.00 Mounting Holes: STANDARD 4 BOLT$0.00 Contours: CONTOURED HEEL$35.00 FOREARM CONTOUR $0.00 TUMMY CUT $0.00 Stud Install: USE INSERTS FROM BRIDGE ON ORDER$10.00 Top Finish: OLYMPIC WHITE$195.00 Back Finish: OLYMPIC WHITE$0.00 Subtotal$532.00
Pickguard
Shape: STRATOCASTER® Material/Color: .06" WHITE SOLID GLOSS$25.00 Bridge Cut: FLOYD BRIDGE CUT Mounting Holes: 11 HOLE Neck Pickup: STRAT® Middle Pickup: STRAT® Bridge Pickup: HUMBUCKER Control 1: VOLUME Control 2: TONE Control 3: TONE 2 Control 4: 5 WAY SWITCH Option: STANDARD COUNTERSINK Subtotal$25.00
Hardware
Neck Pickup: JB JR. FOR STRAT$81.75 Middle Pickup: DUCKBUCKERS FOR STRAT$81.75 Bridge Pickup: FULL SHRED TREMBUCKER$85.50 Control: STRAT® VOLUME KNOB, WHITE$1.50 Control: STRAT® TONE KNOB, WHITE$1.50 Control: STRAT® TONE KNOB, WHITE$1.50 Control: STRAT® SWITCH KNOB, WHITE$1.75 Bridge: GENUINE FLOYD ROSE® ORIGINAL TREMOLO, CHROME$170.00 Locking Nut (Included): FLOYD ROSE LOCKING NUT, R3, CHROME$0.00 Input Jack: RECESSED TOP JACK PLATE, CHROME$5.50 Neck Plate: NECK PLATE, CHROME$5.00 Neck Screws: NECK SCREW, SET OF 2+2 FOR CONTOURED HEEL, CHROME$2.60 Strap Holders: SCHALLER STRAP LOCKS, PAIR, CHROME$13.25 Trem Cover: .06" BLACK SOLID MATTE TREM COVER - 1 RECTANGULAR HOLE$12.00 Subtotal$463.60
Price: $1,020.60
Neck:
Specifications Style: Stratocaster® Construction: Warmoth Pro Construction Scale: 25-1/2 in. Neck Wood: $177.00 USD Shaft Wood: Mahogany Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood Orientation: Right Handed Reverse+ $0.00 Nut Width: 1-11/16"+ $0.00 Back Shape: Standard thin+ $0.00 Radius: Straight 10"+ $35.00
of Frets: 24+ $25.00
Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)+ $20.00 Tuner Ream: Schaller (25/64" 11/32")+ $0.00 Inlays: + $90.00 Inlays: Pearloid Sharkfin Side Dots: White Side Dots Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: R3 Floyd Prep w/ Mounting Holes+ $45.00 Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt+ $0.00 Finish: Clear Satin Nitro+ $100.00 Price: $492.00
Total Price: $1,512.60
I'm planning on replacing the volume and tone knobs with others from another site (purely an aesthetic thing), but besides that this is basically the entire guitar, minus strings. Do I need anything else? I'm pretty sure I need electronics for wiring and like pots and potentiometers or whatever, I don't know a lot about the electronics and wiring, or what Warmoth includes in orders. If there seem to be any gaps I may have missed, please point them out to me and feel free to give suggestions. The above is a work in progress, but I want this to be my dream guitar!
#3
Yeah, somebody pointed that out to me in a different forum. I can go with a rear route and give up the pickguard to make it work, but I like the pickguard look so i'll have to think about whether the two extra frets are worth it to me
#4
Several things:

I have bought a lot of Warmoth bodies and a lot of Warmoth necks. I've also had parts form many other companies and I've helped put together parts builds for several friends. While I do recommend Warmoth's bodies, I absolutely can not recommend you buy a Warmoth neck. The 'pro' construction is especially awful. The double truss rod adds a lot of weight, making almost any guitar prone to neck dive, totally kills the resonance of the neck (i.e. murders sustain) and brightens the tone a huge amount (making humbuckers sound like Tele pickups...), the side adjust is very inefficient and prone to damage, they don't level their frets (let alone crown them), they leave the fretboard edge and fret ends completely square and their nuts are in fact standard pre-cut graph tech ones which they simply glue into place without any adjustment for the fret size or radius (not that it applies ot you if you use a Floyd, but it's worth mentioning anyway to highlight how little effort Warmoth puts into their necks).
Suffice to say, of the four Warmoth necks I've bought myself, none of them are still in use. Of the five Warmoth necks friends have used, only one of them is still being used. All the others have been replaced by necks from other companies. I can not stress enough how good Warmoth's bodies are and how bad their necks are.
USACG make good necks, Musikraft make fantastic necks, Bestguitarparts make pretty good necks with a couple of unique options. The only thing Warmoth can offer which the others can't is a few of their inlay options and some of the more exotic woods. Unless you're absolutely desperate for that fin inlay, buy a neck from somewhere else.

You need to buy control pots, a jack and a switch. Warmoth do not supply those as standard. You can buy them from Warmoth (more expensive than most shops) or you can order them from elsewhere.

If you're not going to use those knobs, don't bother buying them. That's just wasting money for no reason.

I would not recommend the JB Jr for the neck position. If you want a hotter humbucker sound there, use the Little 59. The JB Jr—even the neck version—is going to be hotter than your bridge pickup.

Warmoth's 'satin' nitro neck finish isn't actually satin. It's the same stuff they use for gloss, only they skip buffing it. With use it will become glossy. If you want a satin-feeling neck, it is typically cheaper to order a wood like Canary which can be used without a finish. It may even be cheaper to not have Warmoth finish it at all and have your luthier spray it with satin poly or pre-cat nitro, instead.

Warmoth's body finishes are okay, but do bear in mind they're pretty fragile. Also, double-check you have the right shade of white. Their Olympic White is not the same as the traditional Olympic White used by Fender/Jackson. It's the Olympic White which Squier uses, with a slight blue tint to it to make it look whiter under tungsten lights. If you want the blue tint, great, but if you want plain white like the Fender/Jackson Olympic White then you actually need to order Alpine White.

I can't recommend the contoured heel as even with the different height screws, the screws still will not sit flush with the neck plate. It's also the very worst, least effective way of 'contouring' the heel; the Fender carved heel is much more effective, and the ESP carved heel is even more effective. Your luthier should be able to carve the heel to fit a Fender carved or ESP carved neck plate. Talk to them and see if they're up for it. If they are, order the body and neck without the bolt holes drilled. I've had the contoured heel on a couple of Warmoth bodies now and, for my money, it neither improves high fret access, nor does it feel or look at all comfortable. Again, talk to your luthier and see what they're able to do to get you a better heel.

Lastly, double-check that your luthier is confident they know what they're doing every step of the way. Warmoth parts (or parts from any other company, really) can vary very slightly and this can throw some people off. Make sure your luthier knows how to shim the neck pocket, if needed, is able to drill the vibrato slaw mounting screws, knows how to roll the fretboard and crown the frets, etc, etc. Putting together these parts won't be hard, but it's surprising what little issues you can run into which you'd normally never find on a normal guitar.
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Last edited by MrFlibble at Apr 3, 2014,
#5
MR. Flibble, I am blown away at the thought and effort that went into that post. No sarcasm, very impressed.
#6
Eh, this is a subject I happen to have had a lot of experience with, so~

Though funnily enough I just noticed a critical mistake in my previous post. Edited.
Yes, I know everything. No, I can't play worth a damn.
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#7
Wow, thank you so much MrFlibble! These are the first negative things I have heard about their necks, but I'm pretty dead set on a mahogany neck and the reverse headstock; idk where else I can find it unless it's hiding on the other sites you mentioned. But overall, really great suggestions. I'm gonna be pouring a bunch of cash into this so I really wanna get it done right
#8
Mahogany and reverse headstocks are very common options that every other company can also make for you.
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