#1
I hate buying sh*tty cables only to have them short within 3 months, can I get two 10' quality cables for only $23? What do you reccomend? Thanks.
#2
Live wire. Even if they crap out (they won't) they replace them at Guitar Center without a receipt.
Gibson RD Silverburst w/ Lace Dissonant Aggressors (SOLD)
Electra Omega Prime Ceruse
Fender Franken-Jag Bass

Amps and the like:
Laney VH100R
Seismic Luke 2x12
Dunlop 105Q Wah
Gojira FX 808
Line 6 M9
#3
Are you in the USA?

You can get custom cables from www.redco.com for in your budget and they are made with decent cables and connecter, You can get a really good cable with Mogami or Canare wire and Nutrik connectors for <$20 each and they would typically cost you $50ish if you buy them in a store.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#4
Quote by TheStig1214
Live wire. Even if they crap out (they won't) they replace them at Guitar Center without a receipt.


That's the cable I got at guitar center! Do I need the packaging?
#5
I don't think so? Worth a shot either way. My live wires have been going for years idk what you're doing to them haha.
Gibson RD Silverburst w/ Lace Dissonant Aggressors (SOLD)
Electra Omega Prime Ceruse
Fender Franken-Jag Bass

Amps and the like:
Laney VH100R
Seismic Luke 2x12
Dunlop 105Q Wah
Gojira FX 808
Line 6 M9
#6
Quote by TheStig1214
I don't think so? Worth a shot either way. My live wires have been going for years idk what you're doing to them haha.


Well I got the cheap 10' ten something dollar cable.


Quote by Robbgnarly


Are you in the USA?

You can get custom cables from www.redco.com for in your budget and they are made with decent cables and connecter, You can get a really good cable with Mogami or Canare wire and Nutrik connectors for <$20 each and they would typically cost you $50ish if you buy them in a store.


I just went to that website and had no idea what options to choose on the custom cable deal.
#7
Quote by Robbgnarly
Are you in the USA?

You can get custom cables from www.redco.com for in your budget and they are made with decent cables and connecter, You can get a really good cable with Mogami or Canare wire and Nutrik connectors for <$20 each and they would typically cost you $50ish if you buy them in a store.


What options should I pick on that custom cable thing?
#8
Wait a minute, who the hell has paid over 23 dollars for a instrument cable...ever? Educate yourself google is your friend. You must be buying them from best buy or something.
#9
Quote by derkym
Wait a minute, who the hell has paid over 23 dollars for a instrument cable...ever? Educate yourself google is your friend. You must be buying them from best buy or something.


eh. A lot of people.

I soldier my own. And it still costs me a good 20 to 25 bucks to build myself a QUALITY 18 foot cable. Mogami + Neutrick.
#10
The last cable I bought is a Pro Co and it's great.

Quote by emad
jthm_guitarist
Warned for trolling!


Quote by metal4eva_22
Didn't you say that you had a stuffed fox that you would occasionally fuck?

Quote by Axelfox
It's not a fox,it's a wolf.
#12
I bought a couple of cheap cables (don't even know the brand) about 6 years ago.
They're still pretty much like new and sound great, despite being used almost every day, and even after countless gigs.

I got 2 brand-new Fender cables a while ago as a backup for those old ones, but since the old ones are in great shape, the Fenders are still in their package.


How do you store your cables? Do you step on them, or allow things to fall on them?

I always fold the cables around my arm (like this: pic ), and then transport the rolls in my guitars' gigbags. At home, I hang them on a large surface.
That way I avoid kinks or other sort of damage to them.
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#13
Quote by 457undead
What options should I pick on that custom cable thing?

Here is a cable I made that is 10' it will be better than any other cable you can buy even at 3x the price and it is only $15 each.
http://www.redco.com/cart.php?

This is with Mogami cable and Neutrik jack ends. The pre made cables are $49 for 10' if you order from a store like Musicians Friend www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/mogami-gold-series-instrument-cable?pfm=sp
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Last edited by Robbgnarly at Apr 14, 2014,
#14
Quote by Robbgnarly
Here is a cable I made that is 10' it will be better than any other cable you can buy even at 3x the price and it is only $15 each.
http://www.redco.com/cart.php?

Just a heads-up, the shopping cart will appear empty to everyone but you. The selected products data is stored in your computer (via cookies, etc.) and will not show up for anyone else.
Squier "VMC" Stratocaster
PRS SE Singlecut
tc electronic polytune
CMAT MODS Signa Drive
Blakemore Effects Deus Ex Machina
DIY gaussmarkov Dr. Boogey
EHX Small Clone
Mooer ShimVerb
DIY Beavis Devolt
T-REX Fuel Tank Chameleon
Ampeg GVT52-112
#15
Quote by Linkerman
Just a heads-up, the shopping cart will appear empty to everyone but you. The selected products data is stored in your computer (via cookies, etc.) and will not show up for anyone else.

I did not know


get the mogami cable W2319 and neutrik jacks NYS 224S are what I had chosen. and the cables were $15.52 each for 10ft
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#16
A smart idea is to get a large reel of microphone cable, which is relatively cheap per foot and it works exactly the same as guitar cable. You just don't use the neutral wire.
Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
#17
i bought $8 cables at target about 4 years ago and they have been powering my band ever since (including a tour and countless basement shows)
#18
Quote by Robbgnarly
I did not know


get the mogami cable W2319 and neutrik jacks NYS 224S are what I had chosen. and the cables were $15.52 each for 10ft

Hopefully this doesn't count as necro bumping but the redco guy I emailed said the w2319 cable was a bit thin for an instrument and he would recommend a thicker cable, is that true? Also, the redco guy said this

Quote by Redco guy
Please confirm you want the Silent plug on this cable (used to avoid the buzz noise when plugging into a live amp).

If so, this is only needed on the instrument side, not both sides so we will change the connector used on one side to a standard TS connector.


Is this true? Thanks.
Quote by lolmnt
I love to have my vag pounded by guys who make lame threads on the internet!


Quote by snipelfritz
This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#19
Quote by 457undead
Hopefully this doesn't count as necro bumping but the redco guy I emailed said the w2319 cable was a bit thin for an instrument and he would recommend a thicker cable, is that true? Also, the redco guy said this


Is this true? Thanks.

It is about the size of George L's cable

You can get those ends, but people have been using the regular 1/4" jacks for 50+ yrs and they seem to work just fine
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
Last edited by Robbgnarly at Jun 2, 2014,
#21
I've been building my own from Canare cable and Neutrik ends for years. MUCH cheaper, extremely high quality. Why buy custom when you can build a bag of them for the cost of a couple of the lifetime types.

BTW, the chief causes of cables shorting out:

Someone walked on them or rolled gear over them. This destroys the insulation internally (the cable can still look fine on the outside) and they short.

Someone coiled them wrong putting them away. Too small a coil, wrapped around something else, or they did one of those things where they wrapped it around an elbow, or they coiled a cord while it was hot. Insulation will twist internally, develop cracks and breaks, and the cable will short out.


The chief causes of cables developing an "open":

Someone walked on them or rolled gear over them, or coiled them badly (see above)

Someone bent the cable too severely at the point where it enters the connector.

Someone pulled the cable rather than pulling on the connector.


Notice that there's almost always a "someone" involved. It's not $h!tty cable that's at fault; they don't do these things on their own. Subject them to too much heat, too much crushing force, too much strain, too much vibration and they'll crap out on you.
#22
Quote by dspellman
I've been building my own from Canare cable and Neutrik ends for years. MUCH cheaper, extremely high quality. Why buy custom when you can build a bag of them for the cost of a couple of the lifetime types.

BTW, the chief causes of cables shorting out:

Someone walked on them or rolled gear over them. This destroys the insulation internally (the cable can still look fine on the outside) and they short.

Someone coiled them wrong putting them away. Too small a coil, wrapped around something else, or they did one of those things where they wrapped it around an elbow, or they coiled a cord while it was hot. Insulation will twist internally, develop cracks and breaks, and the cable will short out.


The chief causes of cables developing an "open":

Someone walked on them or rolled gear over them, or coiled them badly (see above)

Someone bent the cable too severely at the point where it enters the connector.

Someone pulled the cable rather than pulling on the connector.


Notice that there's almost always a "someone" involved. It's not $h!tty cable that's at fault; they don't do these things on their own. Subject them to too much heat, too much crushing force, too much strain, too much vibration and they'll crap out on you.


This. I got an old ibanez cable that I've had for 9 years and it still gets lots of use.
#23
Quote by Robbgnarly
It is about the size of George L's cable

You can get those ends, but people have been using the regular 1/4" jacks for 50+ yrs and they seem to work just fine


so should i get the silent ends or no?
Quote by lolmnt
I love to have my vag pounded by guys who make lame threads on the internet!


Quote by snipelfritz
This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#24
Quote by 457undead
so should i get the silent ends or no?

I wouldn't worry about it
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#25
Quote by Robbgnarly
I wouldn't worry about it

are they actually silent? are there any drawbacks?
Quote by lolmnt
I love to have my vag pounded by guys who make lame threads on the internet!


Quote by snipelfritz
This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#26
Quote by 457undead
are they actually silent? are there any drawbacks?

Well they have a push switch that make a conection when the switch is up against the guitar.

You know how you can get some noise when your amp is on and you go to plug the guitar in? it can help eliminate that.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#27
Quote by Robbgnarly
Well they have a push switch that make a conection when the switch is up against the guitar.

You know how you can get some noise when your amp is on and you go to plug the guitar in? it can help eliminate that.

so thats it, no drawbacks?
Quote by lolmnt
I love to have my vag pounded by guys who make lame threads on the internet!


Quote by snipelfritz
This thread topic is gold. I've been on this website for 8 years and I've never come up with anything like this. So yeah. Great job TS[457undead].
#28
Quote by 457undead
are they actually silent? are there any drawbacks?


I haven't tried them myself but I'm always worried that it's one more thing to go wrong. there was a thread a while back on the fretboard forum and there seemed to be a fair few people complaining that the silent neutrik jacks were crapping out on them.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#29
I bought a 100 roll of this a few years ago and made a bunch of cables...
http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2524.html
It thicker than the 2319
#30
most of my cables are monster rock, but there was an ad on CL with the guy sellling them for half value new. i bought every guitar related cord he had, and i got him to go down another few bucks. i have 12 21's (IIRC) 2 12', and a bunch of patch cables. i have broken two and get new ones right over GC's counter in a new box and everything.

do the sound better? i don't know, i doubt it. buffers are more important for long runs. i like them and thats what matteres.

i need some more cables that i will make myself.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#31
I use Fender ones, the ones with the white rubber near the jack. Never had a problem really other than them winding up a bit when im walking round but no sound cut out. I use them for both instrument cables and patch cables. The patch cables are somewhat bulky but feel pretty solid
#32
so, not a NAME brand, but for the money the GFS BEST cables have been doing fine for me. i would buy again. think they were like 10-15 bucks for a 10 footer and are supposed to have really thick guage leads - like 2x the guage of most cables. im hoping. hope i dont have to buy one and chop it in have to prove it, but im just taking their word for it.
Carvin CT624
Walden G630ce Acoustic
Carvin V3M, Avatar 2x12 WGS Reaper, vet 30
(crybaby, Fairfield circuitry Comp, GFS tuner, Vick Audio 73 Ram's Head, Xotic AC booster, lovepedal trem, TC Flashback, PGS Trinity Reverb, Walrus Audio Aetos power)