#1
I've ready tried reading online material and I don't seem to the find the simple ansewer infront of me so I figured someone would explain it to me.

I'm in a dilemma guitar wise where I have my old epi guitar which at this present time is only good for fire wood and a schecter v. Since I got the schecter my playing had improve ten fold and it's made playing enjoyable again and I want to make sure I get a similar experience with my next guitar but I can't seem to get my head around on what makes these two guitars very different.

The epi special gt schecter v

24.75 | 25.5

14 raduis | 14 raduis

meduim jumbo frets | extra jumbo

22 | 24

On paper it seems obvious but when I measure by myself the spacing on the fret (width/height) and neck there was no difference (But in the length of the neck) yet When I play the schechter I feel like I have more space and the neck is wider. But which one of these specs is making that difference? I am tempted to buy the fredrick akesson prs sig because I want a more "Humble" shape guitar.

(Before its mentioned my local guitar store is shit it dosen't stock any of the well known brand of guitar generally just stuff you've never heard of and for good reason. My unlocal guitar is still a below average in stock and will rip you off for what you can buy cheaper online or any other decent store in bigger countries)
Last edited by itsonlyauser at Apr 14, 2014,
#2
Quote by itsonlyauser
I've ready tried reading online material and I don't seem to the find the simple ansewer infront of me so I figured someone would explain it to me.

I'm in a dilemma guitar wise where I have my old epi guitar which at this present time is only good for fire wood and a schecter v. Since I got the schecter my playing had improve ten fold and it's made playing enjoyable again and I want to make sure I get a similar experience with my next guitar but I can't seem to get my head around on what makes these two guitars very different.

The epi special gt schecter v

24.75 | 25.5

14 raduis | 14 raduis

meduim jumbo frets | extra jumbo

22 | 24

On paper it seems obvious but when I measure by myself the spacing on the fret (width/height) and neck there was no difference (But in the length of the neck) yet When I play the schechter I feel like I have more space and the neck is wider. But which one of these specs is making that difference? I am tempted to buy the fredrick akesson prs sig because I want a more "Humble" shape guitar.

(Before its mentioned my local guitar store is shit it dosen't stock any of the well known brand of guitar generally just stuff you've never heard of and for good reason. My unlocal guitar is still a below average in stock and will rip you off for what you can buy cheaper online or any other decent store in bigger countries)


First off, the 24.75 vs the 25.5. This is the scale length in inches. The scale length is the playing space of the strings between the nut and the saddles. Specifically, the high e saddle should be set to the exact scale length of the guitar.

The radius is a measurement of the curvature of the fretboard. This is saying that is you made a circle 14 inches in radius (28 diameter and roughly 88 circumference) it would have the same curvature as the neck across a fret.

Medium jumbo/Jumbo refers to the size of the fret wire. You may notice the Schecter's fret wire is bigger or more pronounced than the Epi.

The 22/24 is just how many frets it has.

The fact that the Schecter is longer scale will make the frets further apart and the jumbo frets give the illusion of having more space between strings (because the higher frets mean the strings are slightly further away from the center of that imaginary circle, forcing them further apart.)
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Last edited by TheStig1214 at Apr 14, 2014,
#3
Don't fuss too much over neck specs. Play the guitars and trust your hands to know the right fit when you find it.
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#4
There's more.

The LP meets the body at the 16th fret, and the neck heel is clunky before that. The cutaway point usually catches the outside of my hand and forces me to rotate my paw in order to reach the upper frets. On a V, the access to the upper frets is a lot less obstructed. The two guitars hang differently, so that relative to your picking arm, the 12th fret and the nut will be in a whole different place when you bring your arm up naturally. The extra jumbo frets make a big difference, as does the extra scale length.

Setup of each guitar is key. A really good setup can seriously change how you relate to a guitar, and a mediocre one can ruin the experience altogether. Almost any guitar can get set up well, but not every tech can set up guitars well.
#5
Quote by dspellman
There's more.

The LP meets the body at the 16th fret, and the neck heel is clunky before that. The cutaway point usually catches the outside of my hand and forces me to rotate my paw in order to reach the upper frets. On a V, the access to the upper frets is a lot less obstructed. The two guitars hang differently, so that relative to your picking arm, the 12th fret and the nut will be in a whole different place when you bring your arm up naturally. The extra jumbo frets make a big difference, as does the extra scale length.

Setup of each guitar is key. A really good setup can seriously change how you relate to a guitar, and a mediocre one can ruin the experience altogether. Almost any guitar can get set up well, but not every tech can set up guitars well.



To add to that, some techs have tendencies towards brands. I know that I have a much better ability to set up Fender style stuff than hollowbodies or LP style guitars. There's a guy I work with at my shop who plays Gretsch almost exclusively. He can work magic on those, but doesn't have a clue what to do with a Jazzmaster.

Ask which guitar your tech owns, that'll give you a good clue.
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#6
Another thing to note is that none of those specs actually covers the real geometry of the neck; there are many vastly different profiles of neck, there's some info available on Warmoth about this but it doesn't cover everything, or at least it didn't last time I looked.
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