Poll: Which string stretching method should I improve on?
Poll Options
View poll results: Which string stretching method should I improve on?
Use Method 1. Your guitar mentor knew what he was doing.
0 0%
Use Method 2. Most guitar techs use this method.
2 67%
Use Method 3. Many people prefer this method.
0 0%
There is a better method! (Please specify.)
1 33%
Voters: 3.
#1
Hello UG friends,

I've recently changed my strings on my Fender Jaguar HH, and I've tried to stretch the strings properly to get them in tune, but I'm now having a hard time getting them to stay in tune. Recently, I've tried to stretch the strings on the High-E string, when suddenly, the ball end popped off and broke.
I am now getting a new set of Ernie Ball 10-46 strings tomorrow as I can't get to the shops today...
But the real question is, is there a proper way to stretch the strings without breaking them? I've tried various methods before but they would not work.
Before you start giving out random responses, let me tell you the three methods I've used in the past to stretch my strings (as well as the reason why they all failed, at least from my own personal perspective).

Notable Specs of my Fender Jaguar HH:
TonePros Bridge
Vintage-Style Machine Heads
22-Fret Scale
Bolt-on

Disclaimer: The reasons on why these methods failed are NOT applicable to everyone. It only applies to my own experiences, and is not intended as a warning to deter others from using any of the methods shown.

Method 1: The Wiggly Method (mentioned by one of my former guitar mentors)
You hold the guitar strings by the nut with your left hand, and you wiggle the guitar strings at a moderate aggressiveness with your right hand, moving across the fretboard and back, and then let the string go after 5 seconds. Retune and repeat until the strings stay in tune.
Reason why it failed: At times, when I used this method, the guitar strings tended to go sharp instead of flat, so it did not serve as a good indicator on whether my guitar strings were stretching properly.

Method 2: The 2-Point Bend Method
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7DxlcE2A2M
Reason why it failed: When I used this method to stretch the strings yesterday, I thought that the strings were going to perfectly stay in tune after the strings were stretched as shown in the video. The next day, what I've realized was that the strings were going flat again. The wound strings did not fare as well when I used this method.

Method 3: The Richard Simmons Workout
http://www.guitarworld.com/ed-s-shed-stay-tune-stretching-your-strings
Reason why it failed: This method is what broke my high-E string.

So what do you guys say? Is there a better method, or am I overstretching the strings? If you use any of these methods, which would you recommend?

Thank you very much for your help!

Regards,
parhelia_0000
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#2
Pull up on them, let go. Play them, tune, play them, tune, play them, tune, rinse, repeat. Do not get the shampoo in your eyes.
#3
Quote by JustRooster
Pull up on them, let go. Play them, tune, play them, tune, play them, tune, rinse, repeat. Do not get the shampoo in your eyes.

Are you mentioning method 3 here? 'Cause that's what broke my high-E string.
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#4
I don't think Method #3 broke your string. I think a sharp saddle, a bad wrap, or a combination of many things broke it. I change so many sets of strings over the week I lose count, and that's how I do it, and never really have any issues.
#5
Quote by JustRooster
I don't think Method #3 broke your string. I think a sharp saddle, a bad wrap, or a combination of many things broke it. I change so many sets of strings over the week I lose count, and that's how I do it, and never really have any issues.

Last time I checked, the wrappings on the strings were perfectly done before the string broke. Also, the saddle was not so sharp enough to break the string.
Do you have any particular advice you can give me when it comes to stretching the strings?
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#7
Quote by JustRooster
Pull up on them, let go. Play them, tune, play them, tune, play them, tune, rinse, repeat.


This.
Stringing your guitar is not rocket science. You really don't need to get very aggressive with this whole string stretching process. And while your bridge saddle may not seem sharp-edged to you, it's worth noting that saddles can develop burrs that, while not visible, can be felt or detected with a Q-tip. These burrs are sufficient to cut a string.
#8
You have unrealistic expectations. Any and all of these methods are perfectly fine, but expecting to never break a string, and expecting that you won't have to retune after the strings settle in are unreasonable.

If method 1 pulled your strings sharp you need to lubricate your nut properly. In fact it sounds like your problem is that your guitar isn't set up well. Stretching strings is pretty hard to screw up, you're focusing on the wrong thing here.

Quote by parhelia_0000
Last time I checked, the wrappings on the strings were perfectly done before the string broke. Also, the saddle was not so sharp enough to break the string.

You'd be hard-pressed to verify either of those things positively with the naked eye.

This seems like a severe overreaction to breaking one string. I doubt very much that this was caused by stretching the strings. I'd chalk it up to bad luck, and if it happens again you need to check your bridge setup.
#9
Quote by dspellman
This.
Stringing your guitar is not rocket science. You really don't need to get very aggressive with this whole string stretching process. And while your bridge saddle may not seem sharp-edged to you, it's worth noting that saddles can develop burrs that, while not visible, can be felt or detected with a Q-tip. These burrs are sufficient to cut a string.

Quote by Roc8995
You'd be hard-pressed to verify either of those things positively with the naked eye.

This seems like a severe overreaction to breaking one string. I doubt very much that this was caused by stretching the strings. I'd chalk it up to bad luck, and if it happens again you need to check your bridge setup.

Well, one thing I can tell you about the bridge is that it does have lots of dirt and grime on it. I've been using the guitar for about 4 years now.
Question about TonePros bridges: What is a good indicator as to detecting a burr on the bridge with a Q-Tip? If I happen to detect one, is it fixable, or do I have to install a new bridge?

Quote by Roc8995
You have unrealistic expectations. Any and all of these methods are perfectly fine, but expecting to never break a string, and expecting that you won't have to retune after the strings settle in are unreasonable.

If method 1 pulled your strings sharp you need to lubricate your nut properly. In fact it sounds like your problem is that your guitar isn't set up well. Stretching strings is pretty hard to screw up, you're focusing on the wrong thing here.

What part of the guitar setup are we talking about here? If it is the guitar nut lubrication, what is the best method?
PS My guitar has a bone nut.
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#10
Quote by parhelia_0000
Well, one thing I can tell you about the bridge is that it does have lots of dirt and grime on it. I've been using the guitar for about 4 years now.
Question about TonePros bridges: What is a good indicator as to detecting a burr on the bridge with a Q-Tip? If I happen to detect one, is it fixable, or do I have to install a new bridge?

If the string is breaking at the saddle, it's the saddle that's breaking the string. Not rocket science. You can easily remove any burrs you might find with a file or even a small serrated blade. Again, not rocket science. Use your initiative to find what the problem is and how to solve it.

What part of the guitar setup are we talking about here? If it is the guitar nut lubrication, what is the best method?
PS My guitar has a bone nut.

A good trick to lubricating a nut is to write into the nut slots with a pencil.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
#11
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
If the string is breaking at the saddle, it's the saddle that's breaking the string. Not rocket science. You can easily remove any burrs you might find with a file or even a small serrated blade. Again, not rocket science. Use your initiative to find what the problem is and how to solve it.

A good trick to lubricating a nut is to write into the nut slots with a pencil.

Managed to find the ball end of the string that broke recently. It appears that only a few millimeters of the string was still on the ball end when it got cut off.
I'm not that very experienced with those kind of high-risk maintenances, except for writing into the nut with a pencil. Would it be possible for an amateur to even file the bridge to near-perfection in the first try?
EDIT: What is the best way to prevent, or reduce, the risk of developing a burr on the bridge?
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#12
Quote by parhelia_0000
Well, one thing I can tell you about the bridge is that it does have lots of dirt and grime on it. I've been using the guitar for about 4 years now.
Question about TonePros bridges: What is a good indicator as to detecting a burr on the bridge with a Q-Tip? If I happen to detect one, is it fixable, or do I have to install a new bridge?


What part of the guitar setup are we talking about here? If it is the guitar nut lubrication, what is the best method?
PS My guitar has a bone nut.


If I suspect a burr, I'll usually run a Q-tip along the bridge saddles, front and back. If something snags the cotton, you've found a burr. It's fixable with a small file or even a bit of sand paper. Fairly common occurrence.

If you've got a lot of dirt and grime on your bridge, you can actually drop it into one of those vibrating (ultrasonic) jewelry cleaners. They're relatively cheap, but your local watch repair guy or jeweler will usually have one. Treat it to a tiny shot of 3-in-1 oil before re-installing it.

If your strings are staying sharp after stretching (unusual), it usually means that they're not sliding through the nut slots easily (irrespective of material). Ideally, nut slots should be no deeper than about 2/3rds of the string diameter, and the entry and exit areas should have a tiny bit of "flare" to allow the strings to slide easily. Lubing the nut usually involves putting some pencil lead (graphite) or some other nut lubing goober in the slots to insure that the strings move easily back and forth.

Stretching your strings won't take all of the stretch out of them; you'll still find that a new set of strings will continue to change tune for a while.
#13
Quote by parhelia_0000
Well, one thing I can tell you about the bridge is that it does have lots of dirt and grime on it. I've been using the guitar for about 4 years now.
Question about TonePros bridges: What is a good indicator as to detecting a burr on the bridge with a Q-Tip? If I happen to detect one, is it fixable, or do I have to install a new bridge?

Easy to find and fix. I'm sure there are dozens of tutorials on youtube.


What part of the guitar setup are we talking about here? If it is the guitar nut lubrication, what is the best method?
PS My guitar has a bone nut.

As mentioned, bridge burr and nut lubrication are the first things to check. Might want to at least clean the bridge if it's dirty, too. Again, one string breaking one time isn't a strong indicator of anything at all.
If your nut is slotted properly, all you need to do is loosen the strings, pull them out of the nut slot, and shave a bit of pencil lead into the slot and work it in with the string. You can use as much as you want, the excess will fall off or you can wipe it clean with a cloth.
#14
Take a look at the strings as they pass over the edge of the bridge. They should not be touching the edge of the bridge near the tailpiece after they pass through the saddle.

#15
Quote by parhelia_0000
Managed to find the ball end of the string that broke recently. It appears that only a few millimeters of the string was still on the ball end when it got cut off.

Then it's probably just bad luck.
I'm not that very experienced with those kind of high-risk maintenances, except for writing into the nut with a pencil. Would it be possible for an amateur to even file the bridge to near-perfection in the first try?
EDIT: What is the best way to prevent, or reduce, the risk of developing a burr on the bridge?

You won't need to file any burrs from the bridge if there isn't any. investigate if there are before you ask any further questions.
Roses are red
Violets are blue
Omae wa mou
Shindeiru



Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Apr 18, 2014,
#16
(I'd quote responders but the response would overflow with quotes.)
Wow, I'm taking in lots of useful notes as I'm reading these responses. Thank you very much for helping me!
A few last questions...
1. I'm using Ernie Ball Strings. How long can the strings last in the packets before they expire? (a.k.a. no longer fresh to factory conditions)
2. Are there any other string brands that work better than Ernie Ball strings? (I play heavy metal. My common tuning is E Standard, although I do drop the tuning to Drop D from time to time.)
3. Which string stretching method would you recommend most for me? (You can respond in the polls if you wish.)
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#17
Quote by parhelia_0000

1. I'm using Ernie Ball Strings. How long can the strings last in the packets before they expire? (a.k.a. no longer fresh to factory conditions)
2. Are there any other string brands that work better than Ernie Ball strings? (I play heavy metal. My common tuning is E Standard, although I do drop the tuning to Drop D from time to time.)
3. Which string stretching method would you recommend most for me? (You can respond in the polls if you wish.)


I don't do polls <G>.

Ernie Ball strings are fine. I have personal preferences that don't say Ernie Ball on them, but I DO use Ernie Balls for my electric 12-string.

Strings can definitely go bad in the packets, sadly. Old packets of strings will sometimes break on you. I've pulled strings out of the packets that had areas that were obviously slightly corroded (they should be shiny for the full length). If you live on an island (say, Malta) with lovely sea breezes, you may not want to buy strings from the local guitar shop if he doesn't have a lot of turnover.
#18
1. Don't they come vacuum sealed? Probably a long long time. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're sitting on strings for years at a time.
2. Total personal preference. Try out some different strings, see what you like.
3. Pick one, doesn't matter. It's not really important and you've tried them all, do what works for you.
#19
If there were an expiration date they'd print it right on the package. I doubt that a year is going to make a difference unless the pack is unsealed or it's very humid. I've used plenty of packs I've had for a year or two with no issues.

You really need to stop obsessing over breaking one string.
#20
Sorry about being so dramatic here. It's natural for an amateur to have trouble with maintenances the first time, right?
Anyways, thank you very much for your help!
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#21
A little late but since I just changed mine (both on a strat and a spanish neck reso): I never stretch my strings. I put them on, tune, and I know for maybe the next 24 hours or so, I'll have to retune more often than usual until they settle. Once they settle, I rarely have tuning issues. I have 4 guitars: a MIM strat, a reso, an LTD EC401 and my daughter's Yamaha APXT2. We play pretty much every day. They rarely go out of tune by more than a few cents - if they ever go out of tune at all. And I tend to switch my reso from normal tuning to open G pretty much twice an evening...

So my advice would be not to bother with all the stretching thingy. Put them on. Play. Suffer the need to retune often the first day (so don't change them before a show), and you're good to go.

As for strings I believe the Blue Steel by Dean Markley are sealed. I've used them a lot in the past and I like them. Right now I use Ernie Ball nickel wounds and I like then a lot too...
#22
You're getting some very good advice here, but you probably need to take it easy. My Ernie ball hybrid slinkys always come in a very well sealed pack so I wouldn't worry about them corroding too much over time. I never stretch strings either. just put them on, retune now and then, and eventually they will stabilize.
#24
But stretching the strings just speeds up the progress, right? Especially if I am doing heavy bends all the time.
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#26
Quote by Roc8995
If there were an expiration date they'd print it right on the package. I doubt that a year is going to make a difference unless the pack is unsealed or it's very humid. I've used plenty of packs I've had for a year or two with no issues.



I've actually used packs that are as much as five years old with no issues. As you say, though it depends where you are. The "Malta" reference wasn't retrieved from an anal orifice -- I was visiting a friend there and you could almost watch the strings corrode, thanks to the sea air. Pulling NEW strings from a pack showed corrosion as well, and the local guitar store owner, whom we could trust about as far as we could throw his lardacious corpus, insisted they were less than a year old. A truly nasty environment for guitars.
#27
Quote by Roc8995
1. Don't they come vacuum sealed? Probably a long long time.



D'addario do. Ernie Ball, Elixir, and DR don't.
#28
Quote by JustRooster
D'addario do. Ernie Ball, Elixir, and DR don't.

What about Dunlop strings? Do they come vacuum sealed? I know Long & McQuade in my vicinity does not carry Dunlop strings yet, but I just wanted to ask.
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#29
Quote by JustRooster
D'addario do. Ernie Ball, Elixir, and DR don't.

Yes EB strings are sealed in the package and have been for several years. The individual strings are still in the paper sleeves but the entire package is a sealed package.

D'Addario is the originator of the sealed string package from what I have seen.
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#30
Rob, they are sealed, but not vacuum sealed. I dunno about dunlop, I'll check next time I work.
#31
Update on my guitar strings:
I just bought two new sets of strings; one D'addario and one Ernie Ball. I used one of the Ernie Ball strings to replace the high-E (gauge 10) and stored the rest in a Ziploc bag. When I started tuning the high-E string, I noticed that it only took me one or two stretches to get the string in tune. It felt kinda weird, 'cause it was the first time I ever switched only one string out of the entire set on the guitar. Is this abnormal? Also, how long can the strings in the Ziploc bags last before they start to corrode?
Current Gear:
Ibanez S521 Mol (modded with Seymour Duncan JB and Jazz pickups and Grover locking tuners)
Ibanez Prestige RG652FX
Ibanez PGMM31 Mikro (modded with DiMarzio Super Distortion and Seymour Duncan 59 pickups and a Gibson 50's style wiring)

Guitar Strings in use: D'addario XL Nickel Wound 10-46

Amp: Randall RM50 (still with its stock modules - Tweed and Top Boost)

Signal Chain:
Guitar -> Shure GLXD16 Wireless -> Boss TU-3 -> Digitech Whammy 5 -> Vox V846 Wah -> Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer -> ISP Decimator II Noise Reduction Pedal -> Randall RM50 Input -> RM50 EFX Send -> Boss FV-30H Volume -> MXR Phase 95 Mini -> Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble -> Boss DD-20 Giga Delay -> RM50 EFX Return

Power Supply: Truetone OneSpot Pro CS12 Isolated Power Supply
#32
Quote by JustRooster
Rob, they are sealed, but not vacuum sealed. I dunno about dunlop, I'll check next time I work.

Didn't know that, I thought they were

It is still better than nothing
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#33
Quote by Robbgnarly
Didn't know that, I thought they were

It is still better than nothing



Totes McGotes
#34
Quote by parhelia_0000
But stretching the strings just speeds up the progress, right? Especially if I am doing heavy bends all the time.


I don't know, it might... but my guess would be not enough to be worth it.