#1
I am continuing my guitar build and I just had a crazy idea.
Instead of doing inlays (which are hell long to do if you want something else than dots)
Could I use a template and burn with a blowtorch designs on the fretboord? Or it will cause too mch dammage to the wood?
I was planing to use Purpleheart for the fretboard, but if you know some wood will react better to the burning process, shoot the suggestions I am open to almost anything, I was mainly going to use purpleheart because I like it and I can have some for quite cheap.
Also, I am planing to scalop the entire fretbord.
Finally, the neck is 5 piece maple walnut.
thanks for the help.
Jackson DK2FS
Fernandes FR-65

Morley pro series pedal
BBE two time Delay
Empress Nebulus
Subdecay Quantum Quasar
Solid Gold FX Nitro

Blackstar HT stage 100
Marshal 1922 2x12 (V-30, Greenback)
#4
It used to be common to burn the tiger stripe pattern onto maple guitar tops and necks for cheap guitars and violins but I've never heard of them doing that on a fretboard. Burning damages the wood and I would guess that the burnt bit is going to be weak and wear quicker than the not burnt bit. Not a big deal for the back of a neck but a huge deal for a fretboard. That is just a guess but it's an educated guess.
Not taking any online orders.
#6
I missed the bit where you said scalloped. Yeah, that should take care of it. Just remember that you need to burn it before you glue the fretboard. Otherwise the heat can damage the glue holding the fretboard.
Not taking any online orders.
#8
I remember woodburning signs -- it's sort of the hillbilly with a blow torch (or big soldering iron) approach. But the burnt part of the wood is extremely brittle and will flake out sooner or later, and it will eventually look like crap.

If you're going to scallop, you'll want a thicker fretboard to start with, so that you don't go THROUGH the fretboard into the neck wood below. You might check out the Dremel Contour Sander for the scalloping process; it's really the trick way to go for this stuff. There are wider and narrower rounded sanding blocks that can be used progressively on wide to narrow frets.



Be sure to leave a substantial amount of wood on either side of the fret to support it, and GLUE the frets in (Titebond is fine, CA works as well, and both can allow your frets to be removed at some point with the application of a soldering iron to the fret to heat up and soften the glue. Work with a "do not exceed" line penciled into both sides of the fretboard.



You don't want to end up with this:



And finally, you might want to consider scalloping only PART of the fretboard (a fairly common solution) -- leave the cowboy chord frets alone and scallop only the upper end where you're likely to want the extra bending room...