#1
I play Thrash Metal and i have recently bought a ec-50. I just changed the strings for the first time on this guitar. I want to get some details regarding the action to specifically play rhythm because currently the open low E string(without palm muting) seem to buzz(or rattling), i guess it is might be going to F when the low E string is vibrating. Need suggestions.
#2
It is entirely personal preference what an ideal setup for a guitar is for any particular person, because everybody plays guitar slightly differently from one another. So even I might not be able to help you with this.

If the guitar is buzzing on the low E, that could be caused by a number of things. The action overall could be too low, the nut slots could be too deep, the neck could be too straight (not enough relief) or you could have an uneven fret. Or... You could just be picking too hard.

In regards to overall string height, as a very general rule, 4/64" (1.6mm) on the low E and 3/64" (1.2mm) on the high E at the 12th fret is in the right ballpark for most people.

The neck relief should be about 0.020" (0.5mm) at the 7th fret or so. Again, that might not be ideal for you, but it's in about the right ballpark for most people.

The reason you're doing this is via a process of eliminating outside variables to find the cause of your problem.

Then, at the 6th string, measure the distance between the string and the first fret. How much gap should be there very much depends on how you play, but a gap of 0.024" (0.6mm) is acceptable for most people.
Quote by TheSennaj
And well yes, I'll enjoy the carpal tunnel and tendonitis, because trying to get one is clearly smarter than any word you have spoken thus far.
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Apr 29, 2014,
#3
Quote by T00DEEPBLUE

In regards to overall string height, as a very general rule, 4/64" (1.6mm) on the low E and 3/64" (1.2mm) on the high E at the 12th fret is in the right ballpark for most people.


Another that work is 4/64" (1.6mm) on the high E and 6/64 (2.3mm) on the low E.

You can adjust it to whatever you like. You can go lower like Satriani (1.2mm across the board for all strings), even lower like Jason Becker when he first showed signs of ALS, higher like SRV (2-2.8mm), even higher like BB King and me (2.6-3.1mm) or waay overboard like Yngwie (4-6mm)

For versatility, 1.6-2.3mm will work great.
Gear:
Jackson Dinky (JB+59) > TC Polytune Noir > TS808 clone > DOD 250 > Modded RAT > CH-1 > GE-7 > TC Flashback > Plexi Clone
#4
Quote by Archer250
Another that work is 4/64" (1.6mm) on the high E and 6/64 (2.3mm) on the low E.

You can adjust it to whatever you like. You can go lower like Satriani (1.2mm across the board for all strings), even lower like Jason Becker when he first showed signs of ALS, higher like SRV (2-2.8mm), even higher like BB King and me (2.6-3.1mm) or waay overboard like Yngwie (4-6mm)

For versatility, 1.6-2.3mm will work great.


Hooooleeeee Crap. For me, that would be excessively high action. And neck relief at 0.020" (0.5mm) at the 7th fret qualifies as jump rope time (I'm usually at .005 to .008).

Carvin used to guarantee its fretwork to be capable of "action as low as 1/16th" (4/64ths) from the 24th fret with no buzzing frets." And that was required because their customers were the '80's burners who were wanking all over the neck. Obviously you didn't have to set the action at that point if you didn't play that way, but it was indicative of the quality of the fretwork that it was available.

Generally the better the fretwork and the better the setup, the lower your action can be before you start buzzing frets. There's also the question of your personal technique; if you're a gorilla gripper and you're hitting the strings like a sledgehammer, you need high action. There are those who claim that you can't get the dynamics with low action, and that's simply not true. Mostly, I think it means that they can't pay as much attention to making their guitar face <G>.

If you have a buzzing low E string, it's very possible (and likely) that your nut is cut badly. It's also possible that you have a fret that's high on that side. Very few guitars arrive from the guitar store with well done fretwork these days, including very expensive ones.
#5
Quote by dspellman
Hooooleeeee Crap. For me, that would be excessively high action. And neck relief at 0.020" (0.5mm) at the 7th fret qualifies as jump rope time (I'm usually at .005 to .008).

I pick fairly hard, so I need more neck relief than most people.
Quote by TheSennaj
And well yes, I'll enjoy the carpal tunnel and tendonitis, because trying to get one is clearly smarter than any word you have spoken thus far.
#6
Quote by dspellman

Generally the better the fretwork and the better the setup, the lower your action can be before you start buzzing frets. There's also the question of your personal technique; if you're a gorilla gripper and you're hitting the strings like a sledgehammer, you need high action. There are those who claim that you can't get the dynamics with low action, and that's simply not true. Mostly, I think it means that they can't pay as much attention to making their guitar face <G>.
very expensive ones.


I used to regularly break wound Ds and unwounds E.
Gear:
Jackson Dinky (JB+59) > TC Polytune Noir > TS808 clone > DOD 250 > Modded RAT > CH-1 > GE-7 > TC Flashback > Plexi Clone
#7
If you want a starting point I often use 2.0mm for E and 1.5mm for e. Then I adjust to my preference from there. String action is entirely about what you prefer and is most comfortable for you to play with. I think my E right now sits around 3-3.5mm and my E is probably between 1.5-2mm and that is what works great for me, gives me enough for playing heaving riffs and chords but isnt so high that fast playing is a chore.
Last edited by Darkdevil725 at Apr 29, 2014,
#8
What you can do, since I have the same guitar, is set the action to ESP's recommended height, which is 2 mm (5/64") on the bass side and 1.5 mm (1/16") on the treble side, and adjust from there to what feels best to you.
Gear:

ESP EC-50
ESP FB-204

MXR '78 Custom Badass Distortion
Dunlop Crybaby
MXR EVH Phase 90
MXR Analog Chorus

"Music is the strongest form of magic." - Marilyn Manson
#9
The only correct answer is this: the action should be as high or low as is comfortable for you.

So, if you have problems playing certain things, adjust the action. If you never have any issues, leave it as is.
#11
Quote by cvaditya
I have uploaded these pics, can you please check and tell me if this is an acceptable action ?

http://i59.tinypic.com/2hn6juo.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/mc5itj.jpg


Looks like the high side of normal to me. I wouldn't raise it more, if you have fret buzz issues you need to look to truss rod adjustments, and if that doesn't help it maybe more serious like uneven frets. And some buzz is normal especially if you play hard, typically fret buzz isn't audible through a distorted amp anyway unless it's so bad it's choking out notes.
2002 Gibson Les Paul Studio
2014 Fender Strat (American Nitro Honeyburst)
2003 Ibanez Acoustic
Digitech RP500
Blackstar HT5R
#12
Quote by demonhellcat
Looks like the high side of normal to me. I wouldn't raise it more, if you have fret buzz issues you need to look to truss rod adjustments, and if that doesn't help it maybe more serious like uneven frets. And some buzz is normal especially if you play hard, typically fret buzz isn't audible through a distorted amp anyway unless it's so bad it's choking out notes.


I don't have any fret buzz. if i lower the action, the straight low e open non palm muted notes sometimes go to F when the e is vibrating. I just want to make sure that the action is good enough for me to play some metal(down & alternate picking). BTW i do play hard while picking fast rhythm sections cuz i'm yet to master using my wrist
#14
Quote by Archer250
That's good. Higher action will allow for harder picking. Here's mine.
http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x456/Archer250/WP_20140429_21_54_15_Pro.jpg

BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO SET IT LIKE THAT. "Acceptable" action is when intonation and buzz are acceptable.


Thanks for the image and is it easy to pick a riff at the 12th fret like say the riff of Strife - Trivium ? coz i have seen Matt from trivium who uses the epiphone matt heafy custom and it looks like the action is low enough for him to pick it easily or is it ?