#1
Hi, i'm looking to replace the pickups on my Schecter, as I find the stock ones waaay too bassy. (Before people suggest a new amp, look at my sig).

Anywho, I don't have much money to play with at the moment, as I don't have a job, and will also be saving up for a POD to use with my amp.

I was thinking of going with getting an Irongear (http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_032.htm) because from what i've read, they're good bang for buck.

I'm going to be playing metal type stuff e.g. post-hardcore, melodic hardcore, metalcore, death metal in drop C/D standard. However i'd also like the pickup to be reasonable for doing a more standard rock tone as well, but that won't be as important as metal.

I'm thinking either the hammerhead, or the active volts. What are your opinions?

Also, I'm hopefully planning on only upgrading the bridge for the moment as it's the most important, hence a passive pup may be necessary.
Would I be able to run the active pickups in conjunction with my factory neck pickup? I wouldn't be too bothered if it means that only the bridge pickup will work.

Also do you think it'd be possible to install the active pickups, or will I need to do some routing?

Thanks!
#4
heard good things about irongear and also some of the entwistles, but i haven't tried them.

depending on how tight your budget is, you can get handwound pickups from the likes of oil city, jesse loureiro (spain), catswhisker, mojo (northern ireland) for not too much more. I haven't tried them either, but they might be worth considering as well, if you can stretch.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#5
Bareknuckle Aftermaths sound really good in my opinion but they're a bit pricey.

A Seymour Duncan JB in the bridge and 59 in the neck might be a better option for your budget since you should be able to get the pair at a little over $100USD. I've got mine in a Les Paul tuned to C standard and they're very clear, not too much bass at all. Actually in some ways, they could stand to gain some bass lol.
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#6
not in the UK/Europe you won't. Used maybe, I suppose. But new they're no cheaper (in fact, dearer) than those handwound options I mentioned.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#7
Steam Hammers, Or Hot Slags. The Hammerheads have the most bass response on the charts so wont do a fat lot.

Got a set of Rolling mill overwound in my PRS and they are fantastic but i use that guitar for stuff like Alter Bridge/Funeral For a Friend.

Edit: http://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_030.htm £55.15 inc postage.
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Last edited by Carrot at May 3, 2014,
#8
Custom or Custom Custom - similar in tone, but I think the Custom Custom is a little hotter. Versatile, but not as "warm" per se as the Alt 8 and JB. Good cleans, good distortion, tight low end, good clarity. Not as high output as the others I've listed.

Alternative 8 - hot pickup, very "clean" sounding even with high gain. does not muddy up, gives both good cleans and solid chunky distortion. sounds similar to the JB, but a little hotter and with a tighter low end, ie, better for rhythm. I have this and an Alnico II Pro in my LTD EC-100QM and I just love it - lots of that warm, "middy" alnico chime, lots of mids to push a saturated tone, and the A2P gives a very "Slash" lead tone. Good times!

PATB-2 (parallel axis trembucker distortion) - quite possibly the hottest passive pickup seymour duncan sells. I've heard it still gives acceptable cleans, but I think its meant for a distorted tone especially. 21k DC resistance? Something crazy like that. Massive, beefy, but more balanced than the Invaders (which I do not recommend, too dark and muddy for most guitars).
#9
Thanks for all the responses, as dave said, the JB/59 set will cost me about £110 or so..which with only £50 ish to play with (without borrowing a little bit of money that is), it ain't happening

Also, I know that it's hard to tell what pups are like from the specs..and that you really need to try em for yourself to find out.

Anyway, I'm thinking about the steam hammer (bridge only for the moment), as it seems they aren't so bass heavy and state on the description that they have decent clarity, which with a 6505..is fairly important. Also from what people say, apparently they have quite decent clean tones which will be nice

Think i'm done here, but feel free to persuade me differently :p Thanks

Also..one last question, given that my guitar is currently a coil split..will that cause any problems with the install? I'm not bothered about the coil split to be honest, but will I need a coil split pot anyway?
And um..what pot size should I choose? I'm definitely going for a 500k pot, but not sure what one to pick. http://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_052.htm
same question applies for the capacitor.
Last edited by ambler3 at May 4, 2014,
#10
not sure about the pot size or the cap

it's up to you regarding the coil split thing. i'm guessing they only come as 4 conductor versions (just checked, yeah), if so it should work as a coil split. if you don't want a coil split i think you can solder some of the wires together (don't quote me on that, find someone else who knows more about wiring pickups ), but that might not be any less work than just wiring in your coil split again (and with the coil split you have a few more options).

you could also consider series/parallel instead of coil splits. might be worth considering if you don't like coil splits.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#11
I'm looking at their wiring diagrams. The Green and white wires are the conductors for coil splitting, then the red is the hot wire, the other two (it appears to be either two blacks or a black and a bare) go to ground. How exactly does it coil split? And what's the control configuration? How many knobs and what kind of selector switch?

EDIT: If you don't want coil splitting, then just buy regular pots. Then when you install solder the white and green wires together. Red goes to the whatever switch terminal it needs to.
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Last edited by TheStig1214 at May 4, 2014,
#12
Quote by Dave_Mc
not sure about the pot size or the cap

it's up to you regarding the coil split thing. i'm guessing they only come as 4 conductor versions (just checked, yeah), if so it should work as a coil split. if you don't want a coil split i think you can solder some of the wires together (don't quote me on that, find someone else who knows more about wiring pickups ), but that might not be any less work than just wiring in your coil split again (and with the coil split you have a few more options).

you could also consider series/parallel instead of coil splits. might be worth considering if you don't like coil splits.


Series/Parallel?

Also i'm actually thinking of just wiring in the bridge, leaving the neck pup as cosmetics, cause i'm pretty sure i'll have no use at all of the neck.
Last edited by ambler3 at May 4, 2014,
#13
yeah it wires the coils in parallel instead of series. lowers the output a lot and stays noiseless (unlike splitting).
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#14
Quote by ambler3
Hi, i'm looking to replace the pickups on my Schecter, as I find the stock ones waaay too bassy. (Before people suggest a new amp, look at my sig).

Anywho, I don't have much money to play with at the moment, as I don't have a job, and will also be saving up for a POD to use with my amp. !


Nine times out of ten when someone tells me that their pickups are "too bassy" I find that they're playing in their bedroom at bedroom volumes and that the amp is next to a wall. This results in a ton of acoustic coupling that produces boomy bass and suddenly they're off to replace pickups. Then they haul the amp and brand new pickups to a gig, crank the thing up to gig volumes and suddenly the guitar sounds thin to them. <*facepalm*>

I didn't bother looking up what kind of pickups your guitar came with, but the chances are they're fine.

If they're four-wire pickups, there are several things that you can do with the guitar. One, install switching that will let you use parallel (still humbucking, but a thinner sound) mode and/or that will let you use coil split mode (thinner yet, and far less muddy on the neck pickup). The old Ibanez Artists like the AR-300 had TriSound switches (just a three-way miniswitch) installed for each pickup that allowed you to select serial/parallel/coil split modes. I much prefer minswitches over push-pulls, and if you're willing to consider routing for active pickups, putting a couple of miniswitches in won't bother things. There are those who don't like coil splits (they're usually playing with far too much gain). But here's the thing -- if you set your guitar on coil split mode, then set up the rest of your rig as if that were the only option on your guitar, you'll find something that you like. Then, when you switch to full humbucker mode, it's like coming onto the turbo.

Borrow an EQ pedal and EQ your pickups. I've seen as many as three of these things in EVH's rig over the years. A GE7 (7-band) or an MX100 (10-band) as the very first pedal in your rig will allow you to compensate to some degree for room acoustics. If you're really smart, you'll have another one immediately after your distortion (did you ever consider EQing your distortion rather than running through a bin of different pedals looking for something that sounds just right?).

When you get your new POD, you'll find that you have a huge range of EQing options, and some of them you can do globally. Find out about the "four-wire" setup, pick up the MEAMBOBBO .pdf file.

Put your amp on a big thick packing blanket folded to the size of the bottom of your cabinet. That won't eliminate acoustic coupling, but it will help reduce any mechanical coupling from bedroom (or stage) floors. Move it away from any walls. Dial the mids back in.

If you DO go to work on your guitar, learn about what you can do without ever touching your pickups. For example, what we normally call a "tone" knob is nothing more than a treble cut. The original L6S came with an additional mids-cut knob and the current version comes with a bass-cut knob. All very easy to wire in. Gary Brawer had an article in Guitar Player (an April edition a couple of years ago?) that had a passive sweepable frequency mids cut. The Chandler Tone-X is an *active* sweepable mids boost on a push-pull. I have both of those built into several of my guitars. On several of my guitars I have passive pickups, but with an active preamp (active 15 dB boost and cut of both bass and treble, among other things). In short there's so much MORE you can do at much less expense than random pickup swapping...
#15
Quote by dspellman
many words


I understand what you're saying about acoustics, it does make a lot of difference (last night at a local gig virtually all I could hear was bass and drums, thanks to the wank acoustics of the room). You're half right, it generally is by a wall, however in a pretty spacious room, and when playing quite loud volumes (that could be used for band practice) it is still noticeable.

With that taken in mind, I just DI'd both my guitars and once i'd evened out the volume levels, and I wasn't sure which sounded more bassy. However I certainly found that my other guitars pickups seemed to have more range to them though (maybe the issue is not bass but lack of mids/high?). I'll try a tone test again later on.

Frankly, I doubt i'll be too bothered with coilsplitting, or anything else like that, i'll most likely just use the volume knob instead.

With the EQ pedal..nodoby I know has one, so that'll have to wait till I get a POD, i'll most likely chuck an EQ in the noise gate/tubescreamer preset that I make.
By the way, I don't really use pedals at all, i've only got an NS-2 and Bad monkey, and they stay in exactly the same position all the time.

When it comes to the 4CM, yeah I plan to do that and saw about that on the SSO gear forums.

I'll try what you suggested with the blanket and moving the amp, but mids aren't a problem, they're quite high as it is.

Thanks for all you said. But still, 9/10 times, compensating for acoustics, be it recording, or playing a gig, will be necessary.

EDIT:
After retrying a tone test (totally unaltered DI signal), I find that the pickups just sound dull compared to the ones in my Ibanez ART.
Last edited by ambler3 at May 4, 2014,