#1
I recently bought a second hand Ibanez RG370DX relatively cheap.
When I bought it the guitar the bridge had sank, but I thought it was just set up badly by the previous owner, and assumed I could fix it myself if I researched it.
However, there is a massive lack of information online that I can find about this problem.

I know you're meant to adjust the springs, but I've released as much tension in them as I can until the screw came out (which was only about half way).
Can anyone give me some tips?
I can get it to work in G standard, which is way too high, and I can just stick something under the bridge to play in e standard.
But I want to use the whammy bar, which was the main point of this purchase.

Sorry if this gets asked a lot, I've tried looking for other threads with similar problems but it just left me more confused.
#2
If you have 4 springs remove one. Same for 3 if needed. The screw shouldn't just come out. I would use some wood filler (DAP plastic wood will do) in the hole, redrill it slightly smaller after it dries, then put the screw back in. If you can't drill the pilot hole straight just put the screw back in as straight as possible.
Last edited by Starcounter1 at May 4, 2014,
#3
do a dive using the trem bar (and hold it)

jam something underneath the trem so it can't sink into the body e.g. some old credit cards or something like that (rigid, but which won't mark the guitar)

restring (or you could even try detuning and then retuning the existing strings, might work, dunno)

retune to E

remove the stuff jammed under the trem

hopefully it'll be level now (or near enough) and near enough in tune

finish retuning

adjust the springs in the back alongside retuning if it's not 100% level
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
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#4
Well your spring tension is clearly not matching up with your string tension, when the floating bridge drops into the body it means you have too much spring tension, try adjusting the springs inside the trem cavity, if there is three or four strings and adjusting it still isn't enough then remove a spring. There is no other way to do this correctly; however once you have it setup for the string gauge and tuning you want you should NEVER have a problem unless the springs are losing tension in the trem cavity.
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#5
Thanks for all the help, I'm going to buy some new strings tomorrow and some wood filler.
If that doesn't work I'll take out a spring (Although I only have 3).
I hear putting them in an arrowhead position is good?
Once I get it sorted out I'll post a solution so other people can solve this problem easily.
#6
Quote by ne14t
Well your spring tension is clearly not matching up with your string tension, when the floating bridge drops into the body it means you have too much spring tension, try adjusting the springs inside the trem cavity, if there is three or four strings and adjusting it still isn't enough then remove a spring. There is no other way to do this correctly; however once you have it setup for the string gauge and tuning you want you should NEVER have a problem unless the springs are losing tension in the trem cavity.


that won't fix it if the strings were changed before jamming something under the trem to block it

Quote by blearyepoch

I hear putting them in an arrowhead position is good?


either should work. that's not the problem. and 3 springs should be fine too if you're tuning to E.

as i said, i suspect it's that the strings were changed without blocking the trem first. that's what happens. it happened to me first time i changed strings on a floyd. had to make a panicked call to the store i bought the guitar from so yeah the moral is don't be embarrassed, we've all made mistakes. Some of the ones I've made are cringeworthy (and I'll make more I'm sure before too long ).
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#7
So if you don't block it off and take all of the strings off the trem will sink into the cavity. When you restring it though, if you use the same gauge strings, the trem should pull right back up to the correct position if it was set up correctly to begin with. The reason to block it off is to make it easier to attach the strings to the trem. When it is down in the cavity it is a bitch to string. That is why I believe he has a spring tension issue. He was able to get the trem down by tuning it way up which means the only real possible issue is spring/string tension.

If he can only back a claw screw halfway before it falls out from being stripped, then he needs to repair the hole. Then he will be able to relive spring tension on 3 springs.

I get the filler in the hole by working it in with a small screw driver. Dab a lil in at a time. Be sure to be as careful as you can with the stuff because getting it off unwanted spots is tuff. It's like cement that sets up fast. Also I'd let the wood filler dry for 48 hours. It says it dries much faster, but a screw hole is pretty deep. 48 hours should let it dry plenty though.
Last edited by Starcounter1 at May 5, 2014,
#8
In my experience that doesn't work. You have to block the trem first. I've done it that way before (as I said, first time I tried it) and it didn't work. The trem stays sunk in the cavity.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#9
That is weird. The time it happened to you the trem plate must have gotten wedged down in the back of the cavity route.

I buy and resale guitars. I purchase around 75 used guitars a year for resale. Once I purchase a used guitar I totally dismantle all the hardware, repair, restring and setup the guitar for resale. I find I make the most money on average off of used Ibanezs. That means I have setup more floating trems than I care to think about. I used to always block floating trems off before restring, but have scratched a couple of guitars doing this so I have stopped. I also like to remove the trem and inspect/lubricate the blades so I can be honest to potential buyers about the guitars exact condition and tuning stability. This can't be done if the trem is blocked.
#10
In my opinion but I'm not sure it work....
right, what you want is to screw the screws in as far as you need so that
1. you can depress the whammy bar so the the lowest string is pretty much completely loose
2. you can go around 3-4 semi tones higher on the open lowest string when u pull on the whammy bar.

i was working it out on my floyd rose yesterday and thats my conclusion
and for the other screw, do the same so it is parallel to the first screw you set up...
and detune your strings about 2 tones down and make the screws tighter whilst
#11
Quote by Starcounter1
That is weird. The time it happened to you the trem plate must have gotten wedged down in the back of the cavity route.

I buy and resale guitars. I purchase around 75 used guitars a year for resale. Once I purchase a used guitar I totally dismantle all the hardware, repair, restring and setup the guitar for resale. I find I make the most money on average off of used Ibanezs. That means I have setup more floating trems than I care to think about. I used to always block floating trems off before restring, but have scratched a couple of guitars doing this so I have stopped. I also like to remove the trem and inspect/lubricate the blades so I can be honest to potential buyers about the guitars exact condition and tuning stability. This can't be done if the trem is blocked.


That's weird. Anything i've ever read said to do what i said (plus what happened to me too), and the guy i spoke to on the phone said the same (though obviously that doesn't mean much, not everyone in guitar shops is an expert). From the sounds of it you have far more experience with setting up guitars than I do.

I dunno.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?