#1
Currently pondering ways to get a fatter sound out of my Soloist (poplar body, maple-neck through, ebony board) and stumbled upon something that said installing a brass block may add some beef to it, as well as improving sustain.

Has anyone had experience with throwing a brass block on their FR system? If so, how was it?
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#2
which soloist is it? an OFR should already have a brass block. granted, you can get bigger blocks.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

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#3
Mid period jacksons I believe had a 32 mm block IIRC. You can always upgrade to a 35 or a 37 mm brass block. Floydrupgrades.com is usually the #1 spot for that.
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Last edited by RBM01991 at May 6, 2014,
#4
An OFR will have a brass block already, but I've had success adding a larger brass block on a couple of my guitars. I think it's worth it, but this is one of those very subjective things.

It does have an impact on sustain (though more so if your guitar already has good sustain).
It does have an impact on tone (better or worse is your call; I like it enough to have voted with my checkbook and added it to other guitars).
It does have an impact on the "feel" of the FR (it was originally called an "inertia block"). Bends that tossed other strings flat will continue to do so, but often you can pop one in before the Floyd moves. In that way,it's a bit like putting heavier springs in the guitar.
And it has some impact on the weight and balance of the guitar. It's not a lot, mind you, but a couple of ounces can make the difference in balancing a neck-heavy guitar, and it can make the guitar feel a bit more substantial (if it wasn't feeling that way before).

In short, given the money involved, it's something that I'll likely do with future Floyds as well.
#5
No but look up coil taps. i have an ESP that has one and what it does is split the humbuker so you can use single coils. the guitar also has a floyyd and when coil tapped it sounds like an acoustic.

well first plan it out , how is the floyd rose gonna sit on the guitar , than route the wood with the right tools , put the two screws inside the guitar assuming you've got say an epiphone les paul and place the claw ,springs and floyd rose in and adjust the tension.

Kahler 2200 and a few other tremolos will fit right on top of the guitars face with little to no wood routing (cutting) and work just as great, I can't suggest Kahler Hybrids enough though once they lock you can tune to other tunings.

make sure to add a locking nut on the nut as this will improve the floyd roses tuning stabillity and its cheaper to go with those Kahlers or a new/used guitar with a floyd rose in it. I bought a Jackson and a few other used guitars with floyd roses for half the price of getting a guitar modified to have a floyd rose in it.

also guitars with floyd roses i find are bigger and wider than average guitars it won't sound dead on like a friends guitar with a floyd rose even if you match the woods... I'm basing this opinion on two BC Rich beasts I owned at the same time, same woods and everything just the second beast was bigger with the floyd rose.
#6
Coil taps and Coil Splits are usually two terms that are confused often.
Coil taps are on single coil pickups. & and splits on humbuckers.

Coil splits is what most are referring to, a coil split, SPLITS a humbucker so that only 1 row of magnets are being used. A coil tap, TAPS into a single coil pickup at a point in which they were wound a certain number of times, but then were continued to be would to make them "Hotter", and to sound more beefy, or muddy. "Humbucker-ish", the tap just taps into the copper wire to a more of the normal, singlecoil sound.
#7
^ you can tap a humbucker too, but they tend not to be very common.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#8
Quote by Snake™
Currently pondering ways to get a fatter sound out of my Soloist (poplar body, maple-neck through, ebony board) and stumbled upon something that said installing a brass block may add some beef to it, as well as improving sustain.

Has anyone had experience with throwing a brass block on their FR system? If so, how was it?


How did you guys veer off into "coil split" from the above original post? Guy was looking for a *fatter* sound and was asking about a Floyd upgrade...
#9
Wasn't me. I just wanted to clarify some of the info that followed. I didn't understand how we got to coil splits either
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#10
Get a tungsten big block. It should fatten up the sound a tad, and you'll notice a lot more sustain increase than the big brass.

Supposedly the stone block also would fatten the sound, but I've yet to try that one.
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#11
Quote by Guy_Mitchell
Get a tungsten big block. It should fatten up the sound a tad, and you'll notice a lot more sustain increase than the big brass.

Supposedly the stone block also would fatten the sound, but I've yet to try that one.


I've tried the tungsten block. No sustain increase and the sound isn't particularly musical; I'm not sure what it is, but I really haven't found any reason to go with tungsten at all, and I ended up pulling it and putting in brass. I think there's also a titanium block out there, but beyond the brass blocks, I'm thinking we're seeing mostly gimmicks.
Last edited by dspellman at May 8, 2014,
#12
yeah i think that stone one was mercilessly ripped to shreds on rig talk IIRC. seemed to be mostly pseudoscience, from what i could see. the guy seemed to be making claims etc. which were factually incorrect.
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Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#13
Also take into account that it is not just the higher density or mass that is going to get you an increase in sustain (or whatever); it is also how well the block fits to the bridge itself. If it is a bad fit overall, then you will not much - if any - improvement. All of that weight and/or mass will not be able to contribute to the sustain. So whatever you toss on there; make sure it fits properly.
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