#1
I have Epiphone Dot Studio, which was professionally set up over a year ago and then not played much. The intonation is pretty good throughout.

The issues I recently noticed were (1) the D string gets about 5-10 cents sharp at the 12th fret, and (2) there is a rattly noise / fret buzz? on the B string around the 3rd fret. I hear it a bit from the 1st through 5th frets on the B string, but most noticeable on the 3rd fret.

My thought was to fix these issues by (1) raising bridge till fret buzz was gone on B string, (2) adjusting D string saddle to fix intonation.

I raised the bridge till the fret buzz was gone -- both on high and low sides, though maybe a bit more on high (high e) side.

However, after raising bridge, that apparently threw off intonation for most strings -- high e and B intonations seem accurate on 12th fret, but G, D, A, and low E are all now sharp at 12th fret by around 15 cents. (D was already sharp of course, but not this much.)

I then figured, I'll adjust the saddles on those strings and then be right as rain. However, from testing raising / lowering saddle, it appears that I want to raise the saddle more to fix sharp intonation on higher frets (i.e., turn screw counter-clockwise to move saddle toward bridge). However, I have maxxed out how much the saddles will turn in that direction and only got a tiny bit of relief, intonation still off on all those four strings by over 10 cents. (Those saddles were already near max distance, so there was not much to adjust.)

So now I'm at a loss... If I lower bridge to fix intonation on these strings, that'll bring back fret buzz on B string.

The "best" fix I can think of, with no luthier knowledge just "common sense", would be if a new nut were done that was slightly higher at B string only. A new nut seems a significant fix, obviously way beyond me.

What I could do, and might also fix these issues, would be to adjust truss rod? Is that next step when saddle/bridge adjustments cannot "reach" the problem? I'm thinking if I move the saddles back to mid-way, and adjust the truss rod to give more relief to neck, then I could lower bridge without bringing back fret buzz on B string, and that would help with intonations on other strings, which I could then fine tune with saddle adjustments?

Does that sound right?

Thanks,

Ken
Bernie Sanders for President!
Last edited by krm27 at May 13, 2014,
#2
In most cases where you have a string buzz on only one string and only at one fret, then the problem is most likely a high fret. A lot of guitar makers do not do a proper fret dress on their instruments before they leave the factory, and a good fret dress can greatly improve the playability of the instrument. Have a good guitar technician check you guitar with a fret level. If it is a high fret, it should be apparent almost instantly. Depending on the severity of the issue, you might be able to have the problem fixed by dressing just that fret. The guitar technician will tell you if this can be done. Even if you have to go for a full fret dress, it usually is not very expensive and it can make a world of positive difference.

It could also be something that requires a minute tweak of your guitar's truss rod, but I think this is unlikely. If a guitar suddenly starts "fretting out" when performing bends, then that is indicative of a need for a truss rod adjustment. But such problems usually occur much higher up on the neck.

It is almost certainly not something that raising or lowering the bridge saddles can cure, so I would leave the saddles alone.
"Maybe this world is another planet's hell?" - Aldous Huxley
Last edited by FatalGear41 at May 13, 2014,
#3
is the nut cut lower on that string? how does the string fit through the nut?
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#4
I'm not sure I could tell "how" the string fit through the nut, though I had thought of that nut being cut too deeply. If a fret were too high, wouldn't this affect all strings? Or at least the adjacent strings?

I'm thinking of taking it in for a whole set up. My hang up is that it's a $200 Epiphone Dot Studio. Just a set up by a good luthier will be maybe $80? (I paid $60 for last set up, but clearly that was not a great set up, so I don't want to go "cheap." I know the best luthier in my area, though I have not used him, has stellar reputation, but may charge a bit more). And if I have to pay more for a re-fretting / fret dress (which I'm guessing is not part of standard set up) suddenly I'm paying as much as the guitar costs.

I also was nothing that this guitar has these black plastic tuners that feel cheap. I think the guitar comes out of tune more easily than a number of my other guitars, at least on some strings. I bout a new set of better tuners to go into an Epiphone G400 that I've decided to sell. So I'm thinking of selling it without adding new tuners, so then I could put these new tuners into the Dot Studio, which will not be perfect cosmetic match (since their nickel, not black) but I'm "substance over form" and if it sounds better, I'm okay with the looks not being authentic / original. But paying a luthier to replace tuners is more $$.

So, to fix all these issue, I'm thinking I'd pay $200 for set up, re-fret, probably new (bone?) nut, and installing these new tuners. Thus, paying more than the guitar itself is worth. And that does not even address changing out the pickups, which are stock. I've noticed them sounding weak at times, and read they are weak. So if I now add buying new pick ups and getting those installed... Now I'm sinking maybe $350 into this.

Alternatively, I could sell the Dot Studio as is for about $200, add that to the $350 I would otherwise spend to make it "perfect," and have $550 to spend on buying a different semi-hollow that comes with all these issues addressed -- great intonation, good tuners, better pick ups, better nut, no fret buzz. Like maybe a higher end Ibanez artcore...

So, once I start going to luthier, it just is like opening the door to rabbit's hole full of improvements to really make the guitar "right" and it starts to seem smarter / more cost effective to go a totally different way.

Ken
Bernie Sanders for President!
#5
i have done a lot of things, but some people can state it more fluidly than i. i have owned over 60 guitars, now around 22 or close, i sold off the cheapies, i have done everything myself. some things were learned by trial and error, must on theory with a little bit of help then (2003).

________

is the string sitting in the notch for the nut? not above, and not really low compared to others.

a quick test (i don't know if anybody does this, but i do) take a tiny piece of paper with .25" set it in the grove of the nut where the string would go (thinnest paper possible, don't fold over) and see how it sounds with the strings over the paper in the slot only if its better, you would probably want a new nut ($25 filed from a decent tech) i like bone typically. essentially shimming a string with a thin piece paper like that solves makes it taller.

if it doesn't fix it, it may help eliminate something that could be wrong. all you would waste is a tiny bit of paper and two minutes.

i had a MIM tele that had the same problem. as well as a washburn.
WTLT 2014 GG&A

Quote by andersondb7
alright "king of the guitar forum"


Quote by trashedlostfdup
nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.


Quote by andersondb7
youre just being a jerk man.



****** NEW NEW NEW!
2017-07-07 2017-07-07 Update and a Chat On Noise Constraints *** NEW FRIDAY 7/7
2017-04-13 RUN AWAY from COMPUTERS!!! TCE? RANT ALERT!!!
2017-03-02 - Guitar Philosophy 1001- Be Prepared For the Situation (Thursday 2017-03-02)
2017-02-21 How to Hot-Rod the Hell of your Stratocaster for $50! (Tuesday 2017-2-21)
Resentments and Rambling from a Guitar Junkie
---> http://trashedengineering.blogspot.com/
#6
Take it to a good tech. I doubt there is anything serious... sounds like maybe a high fret or two and just a good set-up.
#7
Quote by stormin1155
Take it to a good tech. I doubt there is anything serious... sounds like maybe a high fret or two and just a good set-up.


/thread