#1
Alright, so I have a few (major) problems with a guitar.
It is a Les Paul Copy, I carved the body from Tasmanian Blackwood, threw an LP style D.R. Parts neck on it (not the best neck ever...) and stuck chromed Grover tuners, and tune-o-matic bridge in it. I routed (from behind) one single coil sized hole in the bridge position, a little further out than usual (like the place where the second part of a humbucker would be, rather than the section closer to the bridge) and dropped in a DiMarzio hot rails. Single tone, single volume, big capacitor (0.67) and 500k pots.
Very simple, clean, and very heavy.

Anyways I made this thing when I was like 16, so naturally the neck pocket isn't perfect, and I need to angle the neck back a little, by shimming it with a wedge.

Only problem is I have no idea how to make a wedge out of hard wood which tapers from roughly 3.5mm down to nothing. Can I just buy one? Or can I pay someone to make one? I have a band saw, a drop saw, a table saw, a bunch of hand saws, and a jig saw, but I can't figure it out.

Can anyone offer me a piece of advice? I'd love for this guitar to play well, as it has great sentiment to me (made it at a young age with my dad's help, in a 3rd world country, in the back of a yacht repair workshop, from a stump that I got off my uncles country property.
#3
taylor and fender both used to sell shims. Dont know if they still do but it is worth asking around at music shops. you
Not taking any online orders.
#4
Check your local hardware store for ax head wedges. They are hardwood wedges used to install ax heads on ash handles. Maybe they might work if cut down. Good luck.
#5
I've done things like that the old-fashioned way:

Cut of a piece of hardwood about the right size and shape with a saw.

Use a chisel or knife to carve it to a rough wedge.

Lay a big sheet of coarse (about 60 grit) sandpaper of a flat surface like a ******* bench.

Scrub the rough wedge on the sand paper until it is nice and flat. You can temporarily glue a softwood handle on the wedge the make it easier.

You can press on different parts of the wedge while sanding to get the shape even, or take bits off with the knife.

It doesn't matter if there are a few bad spots as long as the bulk of it is good and flat. I would finish on fine paper on the flat surface just to check for and correct high and low spots.
Last edited by Tony Done at May 19, 2014,
#6
Thanks guys, you've been a big help. I've decided to follow Tony's advice, because I've found that the axe wedges are far to fat, and too narrow across, and music stores around Melb (Aus) don't carry too many spare parts.

Would it be wise to glue it to the neck/pocket for vibration transfer?
#7
it is not the kind of thing people keep in stock but if they are an authorized fender dealer they should be able to order them.

and dont go with glue if you dont have to. The wood on wood contact from a bolt on is better for tone. that said, you may find that you need to glue it just to hold everything together if the neck pocket isnt good
Not taking any online orders.
Last edited by CorduroyEW at May 20, 2014,
#8
Quote by Xerxes22
Thanks guys, you've been a big help. I've decided to follow Tony's advice, because I've found that the axe wedges are far to fat, and too narrow across, and music stores around Melb (Aus) don't carry too many spare parts.

Would it be wise to glue it to the neck/pocket for vibration transfer?


Just try it and see first, then decide. I'm a no-glue, bolt-on type person myself.
#9
Quote by CorduroyEW

and dont go with glue if you dont have to. The wood on wood contact from a bolt on is better for tone. that said, you may find that you need to glue it just to hold everything together if the neck pocket isnt good

That is actually completely untrue, or extreme preference. A set neck is more like 1 piece of wood than an extremely tight bolt on joint.
#10
Quote by Xerxes22
Thanks guys, you've been a big help. I've decided to follow Tony's advice, because I've found that the axe wedges are far to fat, and too narrow across, and music stores around Melb (Aus) don't carry too many spare parts.

Would it be wise to glue it to the neck/pocket for vibration transfer?


Just another suggestion. Before you go to the trouble of making a wedge, do a temporary set up with a small strip of wood at the back of the neck pocket, something like a piece or two of paddle pop stick. The set guitar action up and see how it looks. The thickness of the wood strip(s) will give you idea of how much taper to put on the wedge.

IMO, a hard wood strip might work just as well as a full wedge. - For a while Fender used a design where the neck was suspended on an adjusting screw rather than being fully seated in the pocket. - But I don't expect others to agree with me.