#1
hello UG, i recently got a used jackson dinky off ebay and so far its been playing great. however its set up for standard D with heavy gauge strings. i want to set it for standard E with very light gauge strings (specifically, earnie ball's extra slinky 8-38). I think i can do this myself without taking it to a luthier. My main concern is, how should i go about adjusting the claw and the springs in the back?

thanks
#2
Just change the strings (best to do it one by one) and tune the guitar. Then take a look at the position of floyd rose. It has to be parallel to the body of the guitar. If it's pulled into the guitar's body release the springs. If it's sticking out too much then you have to tighten the springs.

Keep releasing or tightening springs and tuning the guitar until floyd is parallel to the body of the guitar and the guitar is in tune.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, you have a sticky in this forum about floyd rose. Take a look at that.
Last edited by JackovSlayer at May 21, 2014,
#3
The best way I found to setup a Floyd was with these videos from FU-Tone.com. Check out the last 6 videos on this page,

http://

EDIT: To access the above link, you have to right click the link, and then click "Go to URL".
Last edited by st4 at May 21, 2014,
#4
Also, remember to set up the guitar, going from heavy to very light strings will certainly require it. If you don't know how to do this, its pretty easy:

When you change the strings, because the bridge is just hanging there, make sure your springs are in the proper pattern, they should look like : ||| not /|\
Unless you can only dive down on the trem, the spring configuration isn't nearly as important.

Leave the nut unlocked, you won't really need it until the end.

After you put the 8s on, put a capo on the first, put your finger on the seventeenth, and slip a feeler gauge under the string at the 7th and 9th.

Anywhere between .010 to .020 is pretty standard for what people go for. Adjust the rod in quarter turns with the proper size hex key, or pipe wrench (I think the Jacksons use a pipe wrench). It may take a few minutes for the neck to move, so just leave it there for a bit after you release the tension. Turning it away from you should release tension. The opposite tightens, if you ever feel like going heavier on the strings again.

Also, its okay if the feeler gauge touches the string, it just needs to snake under it without any effort.

Then be sure to adjust the bridge height of the Floyd, lower the screws on the bridge evenly into spec, be careful and as even as possible because you don't want to mess up the knife edges. You want 2mm on the bass side and 1.5 on the treble at the twelfth fret without the capo. If you ever need to raise the bridge height, do it with the strings off, doing it under tension can put a lot of stress on the knife edges as well.

When you put the new strings on, the trem will be sunken back into the cavity (if its floating), loosen the screws on the claw to make the bridge parallel with the body. If its flat mounted (dive only/non recessed/not floating), it will already be parallel to the body. Give it enough tension so that the strings don't detune when you bend.

Lastly, stretch your strings in, just use the bar. Tune up and rock out on that thing, dive, raise, do whatever, that'll stretch the strings and keep them from detuning like a fresh set will. After a few minutes of breaking them in, tune up and throw the clamps on the nut. Remember to only tighten it until it resists, tightening it too much can wear out the pads.
I'm always screwing with my rig. Muh chilluns:
Warmoth NRFR strat JB/Jazz
Mesa Boogie Royal Atlantic, Diezel 2x12
Turbo tuner, J Cantrell wah, Alesis 3630
Green Rhino, Wampler Velvet, Strymon ElCap/Lex, Phase 45
#6
thanks, sorry i didnt see the floyd rose sticky thread.

i just have another question, when/how do i know if i need new springs because currently i have 3 in the /|\ position with the claw as far in as possible with the bridge still being pulled up a little.

also, when restringing/tuning, do i remove the block from the cavity after restringing? or after tuning?