#1
My friend's brother has a Korean BC Rich NJ Classic Bich and I've been trying to set it up for him.



I generally don't like BC Rich's very much, but because I'm been living with my friend for the past 2 weeks, and as my friend's brother quit playing guitar, I wanted to get it fixed up so that I had something to entertain myself with. So I went out and bought a set of 10's to restring it with.

The neck needed some truss rod adjustment. The neck is way too straight so there is a ton of fret buzz everywhere up to the 10th fret (not to mention the 17th fret being dead too). The nut is also cut horribly as the strings keep binding in it and the nut action at the 1st string is far too low. That coupled with the straight neck means that the open high E string is pretty much dead.

I've tried to release the truss rod, but when I started to loosen it, it discovered that there was actually no tension in the truss rod whatsoever. It was more or less spinning loose. I know that guitars should all come with 2-way truss rods that can not only help force the neck into a backbow, but into a forward bow as well, to allow for adequate neck relief when using lighter gauge strings. I assumed it did so I started turning the truss rod the opposite direction, to loosen it.

But the truss rod continued to spin loose, no matter how much I turned it. Which is really bizarre because all my other guitars have truss rods that can make the neck bow forwards as well as backwards. I kept turning it and I still couldn't feel the truss rod engaging whatsoever.

So I was like what the hell?

The neck still hasn't changed it's relief. It's still far too straight (upon measuring the neck relief by fretting the low E between the 1st and 16th fret and measuring the height between the string and the fret at the 7th, the string was resting on the fret). There is still a ton of fret buzz, yet there is nothing I can do to fix it.

Does anyone know how to fix the problem? Or is the guitar pretty much a boat anchor seeing that the truss rod either isn't 2-way (for some really stupid reason) or it was badly installed from the factory?
Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jun 1, 2014,
#4
Quote by stringDIA
To scab a quote I read "open dumpster,, insert B.C. Rich"


wasn't that cathbard?

more serious reply: setups aren't exactly my forté.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
#5
If you can spin it a full turn or more with no response, it is toast. Where's that dumpster at? Scavenge the usable parts and toss it.
Last edited by stringDIA at Jun 1, 2014,
#6
Never been in this situation, so I'll ask: if the truss rod is f-ed, is that something not repairable, or is it only an EXPENSIVE repair, so only worth doing in certain circumstances?
Sturgeon's 2nd Law, a.k.a. Sturgeon's Revelation: “Ninety percent of everything is crap.”

Why, yes, I am a lawyer- thanks for asking!

Log off and play yer guitar!

Strap on, tune up, rock out!
#7
Quote by dannyalcatraz
Never been in this situation, so I'll ask: if the truss rod is f-ed, is that something not repairable, or is it only an EXPENSIVE repair, so only worth doing in certain circumstances?

you can fix it, but it is a bitch. You have to heat the fret-board to 160+ and then most glues become liquid again. Then you have to pry the fretboard up...........

So it can be done, but it is a very time consuming task. The only people I know of that have had those type of jobs done are with high-end guitars or vintage guitars
2002 PRS CE22
2013 G&L ASAT Deluxe
2009 Epiphone G-400 (SH-4)
Marshall JCM2000 DSL100
Krank 1980 Jr 20watt
Krank Rev 4x12 (eminence V12)
GFS Greenie/Digitech Bad Monkey
Morley Bad Horsie 2
MXR Smart Gate
#8
Quote by Robbgnarly
you can fix it, but it is a bitch. You have to heat the fret-board to 160+ and then most glues become liquid again. Then you have to pry the fretboard up...........

So it can be done, but it is a very time consuming task. The only people I know of that have had those type of jobs done are with high-end guitars or vintage guitars



Not to mention the finish or binding issues with all the prying/heat. That'll add to the hassle.
Quote by zgr0826
My culture is worthless and absolutely inferior to the almighty Leaf.


Quote by JustRooster
I incurred the wrath of the Association of White Knights. Specifically the Parent's Basement branch of service.
#9
Thanks for the response guys. I actually kinda wanted to like this guitar because it is indeed a neck through with a 3pc maple neck, an ebony fingerboard, walnut stringers, and mahogany wings topped with a 3pc quilt maple top (even the top of the headstock has a nice rosewood veneer). It's really unfortunate for such a crippling problem to exist on a guitar that has those kinds of specs. This is a $750 guitar, it isn't exactly a Bronze series POS.

I'd salvage the pieces of hardware if it was my own guitar, but the hardware that's on it isn't anything to write home about. The main selling point of the guitar is solely in its construction. Which evidently sucks.

I've done some research into the problem and apparently several other people have had the same problem with guitars of the same series (MIK NJ Classic), and the guitar techs are all stumped in fixing it because of the nature of the problem. They say that the problem probably lies either in a poorly installed truss rod, or a truss rod that isn't a 2-way. Given my experiences with BC Rich guitars, I'm inclined to believe the former.

I also want to clarify that the truss rod on this guitar has never been adjusted throughout it's entire life, which rules out the possibility that it was broken because it was misused. The only way the truss rod could be broken is if BC Rich installed the guitar with a truss rod that was already broken, which really would speak volumes towards BC Rich's reputation in my eyes.
Quote by dannyalcatraz
Never been in this situation, so I'll ask: if the truss rod is f-ed, is that something not repairable, or is it only an EXPENSIVE repair, so only worth doing in certain circumstances?

It is repairable, but it is a very expensive. Most of the time, it's only economical on high-end guitars. My friend's brother has quit playing, and he doesn't hold any particular sentiment towards it to spend the kinda money needed to make it work the way it's meant to. He may as well throw it in the closet. Or the fireplace, regrettably.

If I bought the guitar brand new, and I discovered this problem, I'd be so, so pissed.
Quote by Axelfox
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Quote by H4T3BR33D3R
I also have to do that. Cottaging this weekend
Last edited by T00DEEPBLUE at Jun 1, 2014,
#10
The coSt of repairing that would be more than buying another guitar, that's why I dislike set neck and neck through guitars. Too bad, that's the only body style of that brand that I do like.
Last edited by stringDIA at Jun 1, 2014,
#11
This is what I'd do, get a white felt pen, take it to a show or pre show and see if you can't get it signed by someone halfway famous, then hang it on the wall and show it off to your friends. Other than ungluing the fretboard and dropping a new truss rod in... its that or the dumpster. At least if its autographed it might be sell-able.