my own personal opinion (and i don't have that much experience with the higher end stuff) is that it's worth getting better than the bargain basement music shop stuff (and good quality cables often don't cost that much more if you buy direct from cable makers), but once you sort of hit the pro quality stuff, diminishing returns set in pretty quickly.

it also depends on the rest of your gear (if you plug straight into the amp a better cable will make more difference than if you have 50 buffered pedals between guitar and amp), and also preference (higher-end cables often tend to have lower capacitance and are brighter-sounding as a result but not everyone likes that).
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I just bought a new instrument cable, the brand is called "Strukture". It is an 18' woven cable. So I plug it in and I start getting squealing and crud noise at higher volumes. So thinking that something was up with my rig, I start turning knobs with no effect on the crap noise I was getting, the only way to quell the screeching was to turn the volume down. Screw that!
So I'm wondering what the hell is going on and trying to figure out what changed in my setup. It worked before. .....I added the new cable?
So I plug in a Planet Waves 18' cable and .... problem gone...WTF!
But the package on the Strukture cable said "professional grade".
Bullhonk! I took that P.O.S. back and got another Planet Waves.
The morale of the story is...don't buy junk cables. Your ears will thank you.
Cork sniffers will tell you otherwise but as long as you're not comparing them to the bargain bin cables there's really no difference in tone. The high end stuff might be more durable, but everything else is pure marketing BS.
I find a pretty big difference between my 10 dollar fender cables and the Mogami's I wired up myself.

Just buy good cable and do it yourself. You'll get the exact (insert company) $50 dollar cable for about 10 bucks.

I used to use about 80 feet of cable gigging. 4 cable method with pedalboard. It was a very noticable difference in noise and brightness. But if that is not sounds good TO YOU then it's not worth it.

FREAKING HENDRIX used a 100 foot cheap vox coil cable because he liked the way it cut brightness in his setup. In short... Use what makes your ears happy and build your own to save money. I spent 45 bucks on Mogami wire and low profile tips 2 months ago and made 13 Patch cables for my pedalboard. For 45 bucks you could only buy a pair of Mogami match cables at the store.
Last edited by cheesefries at Jun 2, 2014,
What I like about Mogami has nothing to do with tone. They have low lay memory (tendency to want to coil itself back up) so they are less likely to tangle up on stage.
Once you get past really cheap shitty $5 cables tone differences are negligible. I also have a Monster, it's ok but has higher lay memory than the Mogami. I use it to go between pedals and amp and the Mogami between guitar and pedals.
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Alright here's the thing...the only thing you're paying for with more expensive cables is DURABILITY...if they're trying to sell you cables by saying it improves tone, it's absolute rubbish....

Cable tone is usually affected by capacitance, the longer the length of cable the higher the capacitance...now,this is not the only variable factor for capacitance, the way certain companies shield their cable/thickness/etc etc may affect it...

Now, if you can find me a single comparison article or video which REMOVES CAPACITANCE AS A VARIABLE, it'll definitely lay to rest this whole myth of expensive cables giving better tone....

But you'll never find such a video/article...no cable companies will even dare to this...it'll lay out all the bullshit for public view...

Same thing with people using really expensive patch cables for their pedalboard...they think it'll solve their high end loss problems, when all they actually need is a buffer in the beginning of their chain...

Just solder your own cables...
"Well, yeah, sometimes I get a little too creative."
~Bruce Dickinson~

"Various equipments"
.....all they actually need is a buffer in the beginning of their chain...

Just solder your own cables...
+1.... agreed .....quality cables are an investment just like you invest into a quality amp or guitar. I don't buy all the hype with tone and such. I bought an inferior cable that was obviously faulty...my bad. When I took that cable back we tested it on an amp there and it did the same thing.. squealed like a stuck pig at higher volume. So I'll stick with what has worked for me. I'm sold more on the reliability. The good cables I have bought or made have rarely ever let me down .
I posted this before... but here it is again.

Don't ever buy Monster cables. Even their high end Gold Series line is held together by glue. I have 1 set that I've had for 8 years and it falls apart every year or two. Only reason I still have it is because they keep replacing it for free.

I've had this cable replaced 5 times already. This was how it looked before it's last replacement. Look in the 90* tip. It's held together by glue! Falls apart if you play outdoors in the heat.

Quote by stringDIA
What are you doing to get the tip to bend on the straight plug end?

+1 i think that may be more abuse than average utility. i have only broken two in the last 5 years and a have a ton of them.
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nope i am "GOD of the guitar forum" i think that fits me better.

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youre just being a jerk man.

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The longer the cable the more it matters. The cable acts as a treble bleed capacitor and the key is you don't what the capacitor to be big enough to have an audible change in tone. Cables also act as a resistor and the bigger the resistor the more effect the capacitor will have and the more it will change your tone. Bargain cables tend to muddy up your tone and filter off high end even in short distances.

High quality cables use more wires in the core, lowering resistance, and more insulation between the core and the screen, reducing capacitance.

Mid priced cables (planet waves comes to mind) work very well if you are looking at lengths less than 10 foot and depending on the sound you are after, the effect added when you go longer than 10 foot might be wanted. SRV and Hendrix used long coiled cable because it filtered off unwanted top end. If you want this particular effect long runs of midrange cable is the absolute best way to go. Neutrik actually makes a jack that emulates the sound of long runs of midrange cables when using top quality cables. They market it as variable vintage tone, but it's emulating medium priced long cables. Buying a 40 foot midrange cable also gives the same effect.

If you actually want your top end then top quality cable (I like Klotz cable) is important if you are running distances longer than about 10ft.

If you want top notch cables you should never buy them premade. Monster and Mogami are insanely overpriced. It doesn't cost any more to buy high end cable and a couple jacks than it does to buy midrange premade cables. You just have to be willing to learn to solder. I can make 10 Klotz lagrange cables for the price of 1 monster cable and the quality of the LaGrange cable is significantly higher than Monster. Mogami are better than monster but still, IMO, overpriced.

So to sum up, 10 ft or less go middle of the road and you won't hear a difference. Longer then 10 make your own cable unless you want to dampen top end in which case you should still get a middle of the road cable and probably make it as long as you can afford. If you want the clearest, brightest tone possible running to your amp and want to let your amp separate the good from the bad then high end cable is the way to go, but you shouldn't buy high end cables, you should make them yourself and save hundreds if not thousands during your playing career.
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Last edited by CorduroyEW at Jun 3, 2014,
I have bought several sets of Monster cables. They did nothing special, as far as i could tell, to my tone/sound and they all eventually crap out. They last longer than cheapos but they still crap out at some point. Cables are like a ball and chain around your ankle. Break free and go wireless man. Then you only have to worry about batteries. Going wireless was the best choice i ever made.
Quote by stringDIA
What are you doing to get the tip to bend on the straight plug end?

Monster plugs are bigger than others tips. That is why they are known to be one of the only companies plugs that can break jacks. If you plug one into those "self locking jack" thingamajigs you have a good chance of ripping half the jack out when you unplug a monster. I gigged 3 times a week and plugged up twice a day when I was using them heavily. Unplugging the big tip multiple times from stomp boxes which have tight jacks will cause the tip to get loose. Monsters just fall apart. If you are an at home player only doing it using it a few times a week you might never have a problem.

I have had the same Dimarzio and Fender cables for 15 years and they have never had 1 hiccup.
Last edited by cheesefries at Jun 3, 2014,