#1
I have a Jackson Perfomer PS3-T Randy Rhoads and I cannot stop fret buzz on the low E string and to a lesser extent the A. The action at the 12th fret is 2mm and it buzzes all the way up till from open to about the 7th fret. With the first fret and the 17th fret (it's a bolt-on) pressed down I measure about .33mm at the 7th fret. I'm worried that the neck might be warped causing a high action on the bass side and towards the body, but I'm no guitar repair expert. Is there anything I'm missing or is the repair going to be worth more than the guitar?
Last edited by ThrashingDeath at Jun 11, 2014,
#2
Your truss rod is too tight. Loosen it between 1/2 turn and 1 full turn and see what happens. After you loosen the truss rod a little it might take a day or two before it settles into place so don't go more than a full turn in any given day. Once you loosen the trussrod enough that you don't get buzz on the low frets you will probably need to readjust your action because that is going to get higher as your truss rod is loosened.
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#3
So, you need to find out if any of the frets are loose / too high. The best way is to put a straight edge on each set of three and set if it wobbles. The pros use a fret rocker:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Straightedges/Fret_Rocker.html
but you can use some plasticard cut up into appropriate sizes. If this is the problem then the cost of fixing should be quite small.
You could also try adjusting the truss rod and bridge in the usual way to set it up with a straighter neck and / or slightly higher action.
It is very unlikely that the neck is twisted - if it is you should be able to see it by looking along it, rather than using one of these
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Straightedges/Notched_Straightedge.html
which you could make out of a long plastic rule
#4
^The fact that it is happening on all the frets between 1 and 7 is a clear indicator that the neck is too straight. You need neck relief and if you don't have enough you end up with fret buzz between frets 1 and 7. As for leveling frets, you are getting ahead of yourself. It is possible that the guitar does need fretwork, but based on what we have been told, there is no reason to assume that is the case. If trussrod adjustments fail to fix the problem then look at the fretwork, but fretwork is time consuming and easy to mess up so you don't want to go there if you don't have to.

on a side note, don't buy the stewmac tools, they are overpriced and can only do one job. If you do have to check frets get a combination square for $5.00 and take it apart. The triangle body has 3 straight edges that are the perfect sizes for checking the frets for level. The rule is also handy for many workshop applications.
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Last edited by CorduroyEW at Jun 11, 2014,
#5
Yeah, the neck was way too straight. The measurement I took of the neck relief was the low E, whoops. I ended up putting too much relief in but I got there in the end and it's great now. Thanks!