#1
So about 15 mins ago, my Crybaby GCB-95 wah pedal malfunctioned, and now it won't turn off. Now I know what it's like to be Kirk Hammett.

Joking aside, when I click the switch, it just gives me the normal click sound, but the wah will still be on, so does that mean my switch is broken? Is this a simple repair, or would I have to buy a new pedal?
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#2
I'm sure its just a broken switch, if I had any idea where my wah pedal was id be able to tell you. So how are your soldering skills?
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#3
Weird. Have you tried pressing the switch with your finger? And I don't mean pressing down on the treadle. Actually hit the switch. It's possible the switch has come loose. Switches do break, but they usually don't get stuck in one position...
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#4
Quote by mmolteratx
Weird. Have you tried pressing the switch with your finger? And I don't mean pressing down on the treadle. Actually hit the switch. It's possible the switch has come loose. Switches do break, but they usually don't get stuck in one position...


No, I actually tried pressing it with my finger, and like in the OP, it makes the click sound, but stays in the on position. So I'm not sure what's up with that.


Quote by losing battle
I'm sure its just a broken switch, if I had any idea where my wah pedal was id be able to tell you. So how are your soldering skills?

I changed my pickups in one guitar before, and I installed a killswitch on the same one, so I say they're good enough.
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#5
Oh wait, those aren't true bypass. So maybe it is slightly more possible that the switch is stuck, but still, that's really weird. They're easy enough to replace anyways, and you can true bypass it while you're in there. Should be able to get a switch for $3-10 depending on what you go with.
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#6
I'm not too knowledgeable of websites with pedal replacement parts, but I found a site with the same switch for $11, but if you're saying I can get one for $3 (or just less in general), I'd be glad to know where I can find them.
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#7
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#8
It's worth spending a bit extra on footswitches. Cheap ones really aren't worth the bother.


Edit: Grab that Carling ^
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Last edited by Cathbard at Jun 25, 2014,
#9
Quote by Cathbard
It's worth spending a bit extra on footswitches. Cheap ones really aren't worth the bother.


Edit: Grab that Carling ^


TBH, the Alpha is just as nice. Those things are great. Surprised the hell out of me, though I guess it shouldn't since their pots are solid too. The advantage with the Carling is that it has a longer bushing, so you can set it for easier activation with less weight needed.
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#10
I wouldn't call Alpha pots "solid." I'd call them entry level at best. I've had way too many Alpha pots literally fall apart. Carling, on the other hand; they're quality kit. I really like Carling footswitches, they're tanks. It's $4. It's worth it. That's what? The price of a cup of coffee?
If you were buying 100 of them then yeah, maybe; but for one? Buy the Carling.
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#11


I've had literally hundreds of the things and zero failures. One got scratchy about a year after I used it in a pedal and came back for repair, and that's it so far.
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#12
I'll use Alphas at a pinch, that's what's in my JTM45; But when I'm serious, I go for Bourns. Or if they'll fit and I'm flushed with funds - ALPS Blue Velvets. They make everything else look like streaming piles of shite, even the Bourns.
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Boss GT-100


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#13
New switch button is cheap... if you already have a soldering iron.

Wahs tend to be breakable like that. I'm not convinced there's any foolproof design for something that takes such a pounding. My old Crybaby had a problem getting stuck between on and off, meaning it would lose the signal entirely. You might consider getting one with an automatic-on as soon as you hit the pedal (such as Bad Horsie). Less "click" noise, less dropout, springloaded pedal.
#14
Quote by mmolteratx


This might be a stupid question, seeing as I know how to solder, but don't know actual wiring and stuff, but my switch looks like this so how would I wire something with 6 prongs (or whatever they're called) when my switch has 3?
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#16
I don't care to put it in true bypass, I just want to replace the switch. So am I able to just skip down to the wiring diagram?

Also I don't know what wire is the main in, main out, circuit out, and circuit in, and there's only 3 wires. So how would I know what is what?

Is the second switch on this page a good replacement part: http://www.amprepairparts.com/pedal.htm

as that's the one I was looking at.
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don't worry guys his girlfriend is black, she said it was okay for him to say that.



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#17
Well if working out how to wire up a DPDT in place of a SPDT is beyond you, just buy the Carling one you linked to, it's only another $2.
Gilchrist custom
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Telecasters
Randall RM100 & RM20
Marshall JTM45 clone
Marshall JCM900 4102 (modded)
Marshall 18W clone
Fender 5F1 Champ clone
Atomic Amplifire
Marshall 1960A
Boss GT-100


Cathbard Amplification
My band